SPDEMON

I would hit up Patrick G on here and get his input.

If you like the Thunder Racing line-up, then the Cheatr series is probably what you are looking for.

The TRAK cam is a max effort cam for racing.

The Cheatr cams are supposed to sound close to stock and all of them have at least 114 LSA - which cleans up the idle. Some of them are up in the 117 LSA range.

Good luck.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO a good set of high flow heads, milled to bump up the compression needs to be on your list.
An add to that a set of dual electric cut-out right after the headers, that way you can have a quiet exhaust after the cut-outs to keep it a little more stealthy!

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

or go buy a 2011 mustang and you can switch between a chopy idle or a smooth idle with the simple change of a tune.

Average Joe

Sorry, although I love the new Stang in every way, I refuse to drop 30 plus thousand for a car I can beat right now, especially when I can use 5k for heads and cam and murder the 5.0s.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

Custom grind

Average Joe

I think so too, but what kind of specs will the cam be to fit what I'm wanting from it?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

While I do agree that a custom cam spec'd by Pat or Geoff would be the best bet I dont think your going to get to 400whp with just a cam m6's can do it but they also dont have the drivetrain loss a stalled auto does. If you did a simple head swap, even some regular 243's and then a custom cam 400 is def attainable.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If you really want it stealthy, you need to shot for -8* overlap or greater.
Maybe something along the lines of a 223(.607")/223(.607")/116lsa (-9* overlap) w/CompCams LSL lobes and milled high flow heads.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Just a stealth suggestion...EPS 218-.595/226-.598 @117+3deg
-12 deg overlap should idle stock even w/no cats
perhaps with some Texas Speed PRC stage 1 243 heads I would expect
400rwhp w/ your mods

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

Good suggestion the only things is with those lobes the valvetrain might be more noisy, so we dont know if that is a good choice. The OP really needs to make up his mind if he wants stealth or chop, there is really no cam that does both.

Average Joe

Your right, I do need to make a choice.

I wanted the CHEATR V3 because of the stealth but have an underlying motive for it, it makes a good cam for SC applications, since I'll be picking up a used Vortech kit for under 4k.

The reason I wanted a max effort cam is because sometimes you just don't wanna wait to feel a big jump in hp, if I went this route the car would be H/C plus a 150 hit of giggle gas.

I know the second route is cheaper but I think I want a very streetable build that would still make massive power and run some good ETs.

Although I could deal with some bucking and stalling to hit 10s, just depends on how much $$$ it will save.

Average Joe

**** it, I'm going Supercharged!!!

mark21742

You can can your car now, just go with a cam that has a wider lsa that would suit a supercharger

KCS

iTrader: (20)

What the hell is beastmode?

Higgs Boson

iTrader: (3)

Beastmode is a term used when a person doesn't fully understand what a camshaft does.

t5munoz

I just went with a 228 from comp cams and got a set of mamofield 205s.....

Average Joe

Yup, whatever you say bud.

Beastmode as I would describe it in a cams term would be very high lift, duration cam on a 109 110 lobe separation, and have a very choppy idle and nasty DD characteristics. Think a T-Rex or MS4.

The biggest I was thinking to go was TR's TRAK, believe it was a 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA, which I don't think would be that harsh considering my stall size and 373s in the rear.

mark21742

That's why I can't wait to fire up my car this week... i hope.
The 255/263 .624/.624 115 lsa should sound a little nasty

Higgs Boson

iTrader: (3)

well, that's what I am saying. that's not a beast at all. i have a 327 with a 30x/30x # .050 on a 99.5 with over .700 lift....

there is no beastmode. instead of asking if you should get a choppy cam or a smooth cam (lolololol) maybe you should give us specific engine specs and what you want from your engine and ask us what your valve timing events should be. just a thought.

or ask if you should get a beastmode cam (doesn't "mode" indicate a temporary state? therefore maybe you should get a VVT cam that can be turned on and off!)

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

Out of your choices i would go with the 228 on a 114. Even though i would suggest going a bit bigger as you will probably be amazed how stock a 228 should drive as long as your tune is spot on. The trak cam i believe is a 231/234 but the lift is pretty huge. So youll have to swap out springs quite often. But out of those for sure the 228. Very popular cam for sure!