Burning oil, BIG TIME!
Burning oil, BIG TIME! Driving home the other night, my LOW OIL light came on, so I stopped and checked the fluids. Levels were very low (probably 1.5-2quarts), and I changed the oil back in December. I've been running Royal Purple 10W-30, so I got it home (wasn't far), and filled back up. I don't have time to do major engine work at the moment, so I took it to a garage I trust, and they said it is an internal engine problem, but they can't pinpoint it. Basically, I'm looking at a teardown and rebuild.
I'm a computer guy, not a car guy, so I don't even know where to begin on this, but I can't see burning 2+ quarts every 3000 miles as good for my engine. It's a 2000 Z-28 with just over 72,000 miles on it.
Suggestions?!
-Mike
I'm a computer guy, not a car guy, so I don't even know where to begin on this, but I can't see burning 2+ quarts every 3000 miles as good for my engine. It's a 2000 Z-28 with just over 72,000 miles on it.
Suggestions?!
-Mike
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,117
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
I ain't no expert, but if you're not leaving trails of blue smoke behind during acceleration and its not leaking from the oil filter or oil drain bolt, or from around the exterior of the motor anywhere, I'm dying to know what internally can eat up that much oil in 3,000 miles, all-of-a-sudden!
Does air puff out of the oil fill cap at idle? Also when you rev it a little? This is what I was told to check awhile ago with mine.
Does air puff out of the oil fill cap at idle? Also when you rev it a little? This is what I was told to check awhile ago with mine.
They're going to run a compression test tomorrow. I still find it hard to believe this isn't a leak. When I crawled under there to check things out a few nights ago (when the LOW OIL light came on), I noticed oil around the seal of my oil pan. Now they're saying there's not a leak, and that the undercarriage is totally clean?!
Not sure I buy it.
-Mike
Not sure I buy it.
-Mike
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 243
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From: Denton/ Cypress, TX
Did you get the filter on there tight when you put it on? That might have been what was leaking, and the garage replaced the filter, and is now gonna try and screw you outa money. Let us know what happens.
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
What year is your car, and what have you done to it?
72K miles
MTI lid w/K&N Filter kit
Skip shift eliminator
Water pump replaced at 50K miles, due to failure
That's pretty much it, aside from tires, oil changes, and stereo gear. I did the first oil change at 1000 miles. At 4000, I swithced to synthetic, which has been running ever since. I started out with Pennzoil Synth 10W-30 and switched to Royal Purple 10W-30 about a year ago.
Still waiting for the garage to call back with results of the compression test. Once that coems back, I might know a little more. I'm planning on playing around with the viscosities, and keeping a detailed log, to see if I can see if/when there is a breakdown. If I have to change my oil more frequently, I can live with that for now. At least until I can save up to buy a new engine.
-Mike
Update Well, the good news is, I get to take my car home today.
The bad news is, they didn't run the compression test. The guy I spoke to said a compression test would only serve to tell me which cylinder is burning oil, but the end result would still be a rebuild, which this garage isn't equipped to do. He suggested I start monitoring the oil level every couple weeks, and see if there is a point at which the viscosity starts to break down. I can then adjust the weight/viscosity of the oil and see if I can get the system to stabilize. Of course, if I see the oil level drop considerably right off the bat, that still points to a leak, in my mind. He also said I could try and take it to a garage that can do a leakdown test, to see if that yields anything.
On one hand, I'm upset that they didn't run the compression test, as it might help better pinpoint the problem. On the other hand, I appreciate the mechanic acknowledging there is nothing his shop can do for me, and not waste my money.
So, I will start monitoring my oil very carefully, and see what I can do. In the meantime, maybe I'll start saving up for a 383 from MTI.
Trying to find the silver lining.
-Mike
The bad news is, they didn't run the compression test. The guy I spoke to said a compression test would only serve to tell me which cylinder is burning oil, but the end result would still be a rebuild, which this garage isn't equipped to do. He suggested I start monitoring the oil level every couple weeks, and see if there is a point at which the viscosity starts to break down. I can then adjust the weight/viscosity of the oil and see if I can get the system to stabilize. Of course, if I see the oil level drop considerably right off the bat, that still points to a leak, in my mind. He also said I could try and take it to a garage that can do a leakdown test, to see if that yields anything.
On one hand, I'm upset that they didn't run the compression test, as it might help better pinpoint the problem. On the other hand, I appreciate the mechanic acknowledging there is nothing his shop can do for me, and not waste my money.
So, I will start monitoring my oil very carefully, and see what I can do. In the meantime, maybe I'll start saving up for a 383 from MTI.
Trying to find the silver lining.
-Mike
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take it somewhere that will do a compression check/leakdown test. From there you can see how much longer you can go before you will require a rebuild. Good idea to monitor your oil consumption anyway.
It could be something really simple like your pcv valve.
It could be something really simple like your pcv valve.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Many LS1s consume oil. Granted your engine is not modded, but 1 quart every 1000 miles is not unusual at all. If you used 1.5-2.0 quarts in 3000 miles I would actually consider that fine. If you engine is running fine, and there is no noticable lose of power, I would not beat yourself up over it. Do a compression test for the hell of it, but I would not get a rebuild based on your description.
Tommy
Tommy
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
TOMMY TA:
I'm leaving Korea Thursday; this place blows...I bought a bunch of new tools on the Net that I hope have been delivered...
...anyway, stop by if you have time...I go back to the rat hole March 8th.
...if anyone is interested, the new tools include a compression guage and leak-down set...just in case...
I'm leaving Korea Thursday; this place blows...I bought a bunch of new tools on the Net that I hope have been delivered...
...anyway, stop by if you have time...I go back to the rat hole March 8th.
...if anyone is interested, the new tools include a compression guage and leak-down set...just in case...
For about $25 and an afternoon you can throw a new set of valve guide seals on it. I would do that before I tore into the motor. With that many miles, they could stand to be replaced. Get the ones for the 02 and up LS1/LS6 engines.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Originally Posted by robertbartsch
TOMMY TA:
I'm leaving Korea Thursday; this place blows...I bought a bunch of new tools on the Net that I hope have been delivered...
...anyway, stop by if you have time...I go back to the rat hole March 8th.
...if anyone is interested, the new tools include a compression guage and leak-down set...just in case...
I'm leaving Korea Thursday; this place blows...I bought a bunch of new tools on the Net that I hope have been delivered...
...anyway, stop by if you have time...I go back to the rat hole March 8th.
...if anyone is interested, the new tools include a compression guage and leak-down set...just in case...
I just got back from Cancun the other day; can't complain one bit about that place!!!!
Are you back now, or you are coming home Thursday?
Tommy
You know, I've been messin with hot rods for about 23 years ( 
) and I've tried Royal Purple on and off several times. I hope I don't start a flame about this but......
Just about every time I have used Royal Purple in an engine, it led to seal leakage. Some engines like the SBC would start leaking really soon after going to the Purple. I remember on one of my LT1 motors it took about 5k miles before I noticed the seals starting to 'blead' oil. I think Royal Purple is good oil, but for some reason I have always gone back to a different oil. Sometimes the leaks stopped over time, sometimes not.
Just a thought, might want to change oil to Mobile 1 for a while......
) and I've tried Royal Purple on and off several times. I hope I don't start a flame about this but......Just about every time I have used Royal Purple in an engine, it led to seal leakage. Some engines like the SBC would start leaking really soon after going to the Purple. I remember on one of my LT1 motors it took about 5k miles before I noticed the seals starting to 'blead' oil. I think Royal Purple is good oil, but for some reason I have always gone back to a different oil. Sometimes the leaks stopped over time, sometimes not.
Just a thought, might want to change oil to Mobile 1 for a while......
Originally Posted by michael101
You know, I've been messin with hot rods for about 23 years ( ) and I've tried Royal Purple on and off several times. I hope I don't start a flame about this but......
) and I've tried Royal Purple on and off several times. I hope I don't start a flame about this but......-Mike