Superk10

It's funny that clicking sounds can lead to so much work, as soon as I heard the clicking I parked it and began the dissassembly, I found all sorts of things, I pulled my covers and found that my rockers were all loose and still torqued down, I pulled the intake manifold found coolant under both the intake manifold and the valve covers, so now I know my motor is contaminated, and we all know a dirty or contaminated motor is a ruined motor so I'm kinda forced to rebuild, but my initial issue was my having rediculous problems with the timing, static tiiming was set correctly and I pulled the dual roller timing chain and put a new one on cause after 20 thousand miles the dual roller I installed was loose, everything is kinda pointing towards it possibly being bad cam bearings, after I started having issues with the timing I replaced everything I could think of, and it seemed to fix the problem, had excellent throttle response and zero lack of torque and horsepower, then it went all screwy again and I noticed my oil pressure shot above 100 and then never came above 20 ever, my oil sending unit was replaced, pressure sensors replaced, Zero leaks, began to think the tune up caused the cam bearings to go causing all sorts of problems, cause before there was even an oil pressure issue I had though maybe I was dealing with a flat cam, now I'm thinking bad cam bearings and maybe some head work, get the valves redone, but with the coolant all over the place, I don't see any way around the complete tear down and rebuild, unless somebody has any ideas, open to suggestions!!!

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

I suggest you tell us what vehicle and engine you have...

Superk10

Haha, sorry, it's an 86 k10 the motor is an 86 350, now I eventually want to run tbi, get away from the carb, but right now, I just need to disect the issue at hand, I know flat cams are relatively rare but the only explanation for the troubles I've had so far is the possiblity of it being a cam issue, considering the timing was where It all started and it happened relatively fast I kinda doubt that it would be a flat cam but cam bearings going makes lots of sense, especially if I found coolant where I found it, but my gaskets are all intact so it makes no sense, I startet with the distributer then went to the coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, timing chain, even had my 4bbl quadrajet inspected, now I am aware that if the cam bearings go that would explain the timing chain being needed to be replaced due to it's lack of tension, but why would the bearings just go like that, as soon as I tuned it it was running like a champ and had retarded amounts of horsepower! Now why would my rockers be as loose as they were, Im not certain of how much play they should have side to side and could the tune up have created a chain of events that caused the motor to dump like that?

Superk10

On I spection of the intake manifold I found lost of carbon build up under the sheet metal shield plate, if the exhuast cross over is cracked could that cause the pressure issues that I've been dealing with? And could that cause coolant to leak through the plate into the crank case causing the bearings to sieze or go bad?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Why on earth would you post Gen I stuff in an LS-1 forum ? ? ?

Superk10

80-92/93 were all considered gen 3, ls1 tech is a forum for people whith chevy's. We don't segregate our selves, I also have a 99 z28 fbody and I also have 2001 ws6 fbody, doestht not make me qualified to be posting on ls1 tech, whether it be gen 3 or fbody stuff? FYI gen 1 is like 60's era, gen 2 os 70's, gen 3 is 80's early 90's, lt1 is mid 90's and ls1/lsx motors are all late 90's on, I could have sworn it said gen 3 where I posted, non of my tbi engines have this issue, only my carburated 86, I was kinda hoping there might be someone out there that might help me and not put me down, it's not like I poste about a dodge or a ford, it's a chevy, oh yeah, and FYI as well, the block isn't much different, yes the ls1 is an aluminum block, it's the top end where most the difference is, besides internals, I could take this block, put, 99 heads cam, crank, etc, and have a block similar to the q45 iron block for a supercharged set up, more like they put in the ss builds, so check it out, instead of making smart comments, try and be helpful, I know alot, but I don't know everything, that's why i ask questions, forums are for help, and discussion, sorry if what I just said was found offensive, but please don't make me feel stupid for posting

Superk10

And yes I am also aware that these motors are considered gen 3 motors, but if I made the mistake picking gen 3 thinking it was a gen 3 "body style" section then that was my mistake, there wasn't any need for the comment about my posting, being on an ls1 thread section, again if anyone could help that would be cool, cause I do need help, or maybe at least direct me into the right direction

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

This subforum is for the Generation III Chevrolet V8s. More specifically, the 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6 as it states just under the forum link. This site is dedicated to the LS1. There is a traditional SBC forum here, click for SBC forum

Anyway, if you suspect a flat lobe which is fairly common with today's "superior" oils and flat tappet cams, you need to remove both valve covers. Either turn the engine over by hand, or use the starter to crank the engine over with the distributor disconnected. Watch the rockers, pushrods, and valves. If you find one that isn't moving like the others, you've got a problem

Also, keep in mind that the newer 97+ LS based engines, aka Gen III/IV, have NOTHING in common with the engine in your K5.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Nothing offensive about your post, you just won't get many replies here about Gen I motors. BTW, '55 thru '93 = Gen I, 94 thru 97 = Gen II, 97 thru 2005ish = Gen III and 2006ish = Gen IV depending what on body line it was installed in. Here is the Gen II forum, but this is what you prolly want.

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

Sure you can,just not from anyone.If your engine had a bad head gasket,some times it will go bad and you will not know it.It can actually suck antifreeze into the pan and contaminate the oil.This will wipe out all the bearings in the motor including the cam bearings.This is just one senario.If the cam went flat it will usually backfier on you.Good luck.

Superk10

Thanks guys, I'll check out the gen 2 section for the k10 and talk to you guys when I start the build on the ws6 I'm removing the electric water pump, putting it on the 99Z28 and doing a twin turbo on the ws6, not sure if I should keep the t56 manual or if I should do the automatic with the turbo ls1, might be easier to regulate my boost with an auto tranny, to nhraformula00, it's more like back firing through the carb and out through the exhaust and it does have coolant inside the case but I haven't found any head gasket failure in the disassembly ofthe motor yet, I did already notice the rocker irregularities, which is one reason why I started the tear down, it does need to just be rebuilt, I'd really like to throw an ls series in it with the 4l60e cause it bolts straight up to the transfer case, can we post photos on this site? Is it only on our profile? I'd like to put up photos, especially of the k10 if I decide to do the ls1 build in it, thanks everybody!!

revtech101

Compression test and a leak down test should help narrow your problem.

95maroz28

iTrader: (21)

pushrod/rocker would have pretty good up and down play. i had a tick a few months ago in an old 70 cleveland. one of the lobes was shot after maybe 10k. also had it happen to the same motor years ago when the car would sit. crank it with the valve covers off

Superk10

I wanna find an ls1 from another 99, I found a smoking deal on an lt1, but I don't wanna deal with the optispark, I know the t56 won't bolt to my transfer case, linkage is also too far, I don't want the truck to be automatic so the 4l60e is pretty much out of the question, do you think the nv4500 will bolt to the ls1? It'll only give me 5 gears to play with but it'll bolt up to the transfer case and I can keep it stick, just wondering how much fab work to the bell housing woul have to be done, my goal is to have an ls1 powered 4wheel drive with out loosing the stick, too bad it's not a c10, cause the t56 could work with minimal fab to the shift linkage kinda turning it into a short throw, that would be nice,