NightmareTA

iTrader: (20)

Hey guys. My brother is doing a cammed LS1 build in a 3rd gen TA and I am not too familiar with LS1 cams and what kind of power they make, or how well they work in certain combos. We are using a mostly stock 98 LS1 with the following mods...

-LS6 intake w/ stock injectors
-Possibly ported throttle body
-Stainless works longtubes & full hooker catback
-stock heads
-LS7 lifters
-Matched valvesprings for cam chosen
-High flow air intake

A freind told us to go with the 224/224 cam for a stock head motor. We're looking for high 300's RWHP with the cam and said mods, but want an awesome powerband for the street as this will be a 95% street car. It's also got an RPM transmissions viper spec T56 and 4.10 gears. Any recommendations you guys may have, I'm all ears. Don't care about a huge donkey dick idle, just want a great powerband. Anyways, heres the cam we were thinking about...

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1146-te...-camshaft.aspx

Would you guys go any bigger or is that cam going to do what we want it to do? Also, we were thinking 112 LSA over 114...any suggestions on that end too?

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

98 ls1's have the weaker rod bolts I beleive.. So reving it really high probably isn't a good idea, but that cam will definately make good power. I think a bigger cam would be even better for you with a 6 speed though. We need to know if this will be a daily driver, weekend warrior, drive 1 to 3 times a week? If it is a daily driver I would go with the 228r wich is just like the 224r, but a little bit bigger and if it's a weekend warrior than go something a little bigger like torquer v2 or even ms3.

NightmareTA

iTrader: (20)

It's not a daily driver (brother has a focus for that), but like I said, will be 98% street car. It'll be driven at least 3 times a week, if not more.

As far as the rod bolts, I've heard they are weaker on the older engines. Is it easy/worth it to replace them before we put the engine in? Not looking to do a full teardown and rebuild here but we'd consider it if it's just a matter of pulling the old ones out and putting in ARP's or something. Just don't want to go replacing bearings and all that as well, and I'm not sure if LS1's have studs or if it's a true bolt on the rods.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

The bolts screw into the rod through the cap. ARP or katech bolts would solve that problem.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

I definitely wouldn't touch the rod bolts if you don't have to. I don't think they are weak. Just not as strong as the new model ls1's. As long as you arent reving it past 6500 rpm you will be fine. Sounds to me like a 228r or a torquer v2 would be a good cam for you imo. It sounds like you don't wanna get a huge *** cam wich is a good idea if you drive it up to 3-5 times a week. So one of those cams would probably be good for you. Even the 224r you mentioned would be good also, but I would go with the 228r over it in your situation.

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

dont mean to hijack this bro but im also looking for cam suggestions....
Im trying to build a budget 350-370 HP 98Z, M6, 100% street/DD...
Im thinking TSP 1-7/8" Headers with TSP true duals, LS6 intake if i can ever find one(more than likely NO), ported TB...and a tune after the cam.
Headers-$500
Exhaust-$500
intake-$350
cam+springs+pushrods-$600
$2000 hopefully all in next summer, will i need any other supporting mods for the cam or will a tune set me to the road with my new zippy z28?

ALSO will i see a huge power difference if i was on a smaller budget and just did pacesetters 1-3/4" and ypipe with the current catback i have on? Because that would save $500...but i dont want to skimp out too much.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

The pacesetter 1-3/4" headers are a great budget header and actually just a great header period. I have them, they went in easy as pie and I have never had 1 problem with them after 2 years and they flow great. Also you need to add on to the price of your cam kit. Like gaskets, fluids, special tools needed, tune and all that. Just spend the extra $100 on them and get the coated stainless ones. They look great and won't rust.

06Sierra2

im running the 224 cam on my stock headed 5.3 truck. If i had a 6 speed fbody (which i am looking for lol) i would def run at least the 228 cam. It will still be a great street performer with a good powerband. Dont worry about low end loss too much with a manual and 4.10s. Plenty of people even dd the v2 with stock heads and 3.73s-3.90s

PREDATOR-Z

If you are looking at TS, check their 228R on a 112+2 LSA

farmington

iTrader: (14)

Just did a 224r cam. Gives a nice lope at idle, nice flat torque curve. Excellent all around street cam. made 382rwhp with similar mods. You might need bigger injectors, I did.

Camaro Z

iTrader: (5)

They are a good budget header, but there is no gaurantee that the coated headers won't rust. Mine have been on the car for 5 years/10k miles (non-daily driver) and they are rusting at the collector pretty bad. If you want to have a good header for the long term go with a stainless header and buy them once, wish that I would have. I will be buying a set of Kooks 1 7/8 headers next year.

Agree with your post, be sure to budget in the extra expenses. Also it's a good idea to invest in a good dual spring removal tool. Saves a ton of time and makes the spring replacement pretty easy.

Sorry for the hi-jack OP

fonzie85

iTrader: (3)

I had a 224r cam in my 04 gto w/ headers full exhaust and tune. It preformed well all through the rpm range. good all around street cam.

NightmareTA

iTrader: (20)

Looking at TS and futral motorsports for cams...either one better than the other or is it just all preference?

Sounds like a pretty good number, and right around where we want to be! Plus I have heard that down the road, even the 224 cam responds well to better heads with guys making around 410-420 rwhp on the average.

Sales1@Texas-speed

Give us a call here at the shop and we will be more than happy to go over some various setups to meet your goals.

farmington

iTrader: (14)

yeah, I figure that a good set of heads will put me right around 420rwhp. All things considered, you're always better to undercam than overcam. I originally was looking to do a 228r but a special deal on the 224r and a set of 1518 PAC springs fell into my lap. Couldn't pass it up.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

I think you needa go to the track and get some times lol

farmington

iTrader: (14)

Can't get to the strip, no roll cage. With my G Tech SS it says I'm running 11.72 @ 115mph. With a 1.80 60' I feel that there's more left with better suspension tuning.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Ahh that sucks you can't run it without a roll cage cuz it's a vert. Get a roll cage on there man!

NightmareTA

iTrader: (20)

I feel your pain! My TA in my sig will not be getting a cage because it's a street car and I don't want the inconvienence of climbimg around one, but I'm sure I'll be around a 130 mph trap and the track won't like me much after 1 or 2 of those lol. I also have a trunk mounted battery and don't want to drill a hole for an on/off switch. Oh well.

And at this point it's looking like it's going to be the 224 cam for my bro's set up. Seems like it makes good power under the curve and even at around 380 rwhp, he'll be 80 up from his old combo!