Why is my car so slow???
08-27-2011, 09:03 PM
#41
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i have a 2000 trans am with pacesetters,ls1 intake, catback,lid,ptc 4000stall,et streets, 3.23 and frost tune.started running at the track this week and the best i pulled was a 14.2 was night with a 2.0 60ft. last night i got a 13.9 with a 1.92 60ft and im trapping like 96.7mph. everyone is saying that i need more gear or my converter has me out of the stock ls1 cam powerband.but i ran 2 similarly modded fbodys last nite and they both had smaller stalls...one a 3200 and the other a 3000.our 60ft's were comparable.hell one of em still had the stock ls1 intake and stock lid and ran 13 flat.
they were pulling away from me like it was nothing.but ive seen it too many times here on tech with people on the stock cam and gearing just like me with big stalls running dam good in the 12's with similar 60fts.am i missing something?
they were pulling away from me like it was nothing.but ive seen it too many times here on tech with people on the stock cam and gearing just like me with big stalls running dam good in the 12's with similar 60fts.am i missing something?
08-27-2011, 09:15 PM
#42
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well got back home and fired her up.seems like the maf cleaning smoothed it out a little.cruised it for a while then got on it...it definitely feels like it picked up some *****...especially on the kickdown at WOT.wont be sure about the improvement till i run it again just in case its all in my head.
you guys that are cutting the 1.6 60fts wat are u launching at? dont want to pop the rear end
you guys that are cutting the 1.6 60fts wat are u launching at? dont want to pop the rear end
08-27-2011, 11:12 PM
#43
I want to jump in here and up my post count and say "man there's something wrong with your car" 
One really good thing that was mentioned to check to see if your throttle cable is adjusted right. Mine was off and took away about 50rwhp on the dyno.
One really good thing that was mentioned to check to see if your throttle cable is adjusted right. Mine was off and took away about 50rwhp on the dyno.
08-28-2011, 01:33 PM
#47
well got back home and fired her up.seems like the maf cleaning smoothed it out a little.cruised it for a while then got on it...it definitely feels like it picked up some *****...especially on the kickdown at WOT.wont be sure about the improvement till i run it again just in case its all in my head.
you guys that are cutting the 1.6 60fts wat are u launching at? dont want to pop the rear end
you guys that are cutting the 1.6 60fts wat are u launching at? dont want to pop the rear end
08-28-2011, 02:11 PM
#48
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Thats an idle adjust and is generally not needed as idles can be adjusted in the tune. They are talking about making sure he is getting 100% WOT when the pedal is depressed.
08-28-2011, 02:15 PM
#49
08-28-2011, 02:50 PM
#50
I have a 2000 A4 stock cam and stock gears. I cut a 1.64 60 and trap 108 mph. 12.45 1/4. Most recommend launching between 1200-1500 because it allows you converter to flash higher. I actually ran slower times doing that. I like to run mine up to 2400 or so. My car just pulls better times that way. My recommendation is to try multiple rpms till you find one the car likes.
08-28-2011, 03:03 PM
#51
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If u really are a master tech u should know that dealers are a rip off. I have some ASE's, but damn I've seen a lot of dealers **** up on diagnosing. I honestly think that it's hard to trust a dealer more then the independent shops. There are some great techs out there and I've seen guys that are real great and I've seen dealer guys that just don't know Jack crap. I've found many problems that dealers couldn't find and saved costumer literally thousands of dollars that the dealer was asking for. So like I said, find a good tech. Go on yelp.com and look at reviews on local shops. And if u are a master tech. Why refer your friends and family for something u can fix yourself and make some extra cash?
08-28-2011, 03:44 PM
#52
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What is really amazing to me about this whole tech thing is a tech would use the proper tools and knowledge to diagnose an issue whatever it may be on any vehicle does not matter in my experience what vehicle the tech has in front of him rather than throw parts at it because they saw it 3 times last week.
Diagnostic technician- has knowledge, ability, and tools to diagnose vehicle issue
Parts replacer- bad for business and not a tech certainly not diagnostic at all.
Diagnostic technician- has knowledge, ability, and tools to diagnose vehicle issue
Parts replacer- bad for business and not a tech certainly not diagnostic at all.
08-28-2011, 03:48 PM
#54
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You will have one or more adjuster blocks in the cables depending
on setup. On my stock cables there were two. Now with non-TCS
cables, there are none. All you can do with the adjuster blocks is
remove the slack in the cable, you have to stop before you pull
idle up. If you need more than that, you have to pull the gas pedal
off and bend it in a vise so that it has a more acute angle. I have
seen a few cars where adjusters alone couldn't get it to full open.
on setup. On my stock cables there were two. Now with non-TCS
cables, there are none. All you can do with the adjuster blocks is
remove the slack in the cable, you have to stop before you pull
idle up. If you need more than that, you have to pull the gas pedal
off and bend it in a vise so that it has a more acute angle. I have
seen a few cars where adjusters alone couldn't get it to full open.
08-28-2011, 06:26 PM
#55
What is really amazing to me about this whole tech thing is a tech would use the proper tools and knowledge to diagnose an issue whatever it may be on any vehicle does not matter in my experience what vehicle the tech has in front of him rather than throw parts at it because they saw it 3 times last week.
Diagnostic technician- has knowledge, ability, and tools to diagnose vehicle issue
Parts replacer- bad for business and not a tech certainly not diagnostic at all.
Diagnostic technician- has knowledge, ability, and tools to diagnose vehicle issue
Parts replacer- bad for business and not a tech certainly not diagnostic at all.
My point excatly. Anyone with the knowledge can replace parts at a dealer if they have encountered the problem before. But only a true tech will properly diagnose it no matter what type of car. From a Toyota to a BMW. Kia to Benz. Shouldn't matter.
OP, if problem continues find a good tech and trust the person. Don't trust dealers. They will just exchange parts until they find the problem, that's not a true tech.
08-28-2011, 06:35 PM
#56
I have worked at both dealers and independents. Being a dealership technician I have seen first hand the difference in quality of work. I worked for Cadillac for four years and I would constantly see cars that were messed up by independents or hear stories about people who spent tons of money at an independent chasing problems that I knew off the top of my head. A dealer works on one make of vehicles and sees the same stuff over and over. An independent sees all different kinds of cars and never really gets to see the same kind of cars every day. I would much rather take my car to someone who sees the same cars and engines every day than someone who never gets to master one line. It shouldn't always be about money. I always prefer quality to saving a buck somewhere.
I work for an independent shop. And let me tell u that we have a better reputation then dealers around our area.
Now if u take your car to a mom and pop shop where the only diagnostic tool they have is a jumper wire and a test light, then u are going to the wrong place. There is only a handful of good shops, just need to find the good ones.
08-28-2011, 07:59 PM
#57
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The last T/A I helped with, (my best friends) stock 2000 T/A, stock weight, long tubes, ORY, Magnaflow, LS1 intake, stock heads, lid, stock 10 bolt and 3.23's with a 4000 stall with MT DR's out back and stock 16" wheels up front, ran 1.58 60' 12.1 @ 110
08-28-2011, 09:54 PM
#58
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ive come to the conclusion that i definitely have a misfire despit not having a CEL.i used my partners hp tuners vcm scanner even tho neither one of us knows really how to use it.i did a cylinder balance test and they all appear to be healthy.is there something particular in the software i need to be doing to trace the misfire? im hoping its something simple like a coilpack or injector
08-28-2011, 10:56 PM
#60
You really need to do a compression test first and that will get you in the right direction... If that looks good then do a leak down...
If those turn out good then start chasing everything else.... Stupid/cheap stuff first...
Def check the throttle blade to make sure it is open all the way like someone posted..
Matt
If those turn out good then start chasing everything else.... Stupid/cheap stuff first...
Def check the throttle blade to make sure it is open all the way like someone posted..
Matt