Running engine (in car) w/out transmission to diagnose leak. Special precautions?
#1
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Running engine (in car) w/out transmission to diagnose leak. Special precautions?
Have another thread chasing down either a rear main or rear cover leak, but this is different enough for a new thread.
I read a couple older posts of people running the engine without the trans installed to pinpoint leaks from the rear of the engine That said, are there any special precautions needed to do this?
This is what I was planning:
* Install the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate to have a balanced assembly for the crank.
* Plug my old slave cylinder into the master cylinder so that the clutch pedal can be depressed to complete the starting circuit.
* Re-attach the Y-pipe to prevent pissing off the neighbors
Are there any issues with starting the car with the clutch bolted in but without the trans (I'm think of how the clutch disc slides on the tranny splines)
Any other precautions to be aware of?
$0.02 appreciated.
I read a couple older posts of people running the engine without the trans installed to pinpoint leaks from the rear of the engine That said, are there any special precautions needed to do this?
This is what I was planning:
* Install the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate to have a balanced assembly for the crank.
* Plug my old slave cylinder into the master cylinder so that the clutch pedal can be depressed to complete the starting circuit.
* Re-attach the Y-pipe to prevent pissing off the neighbors
Are there any issues with starting the car with the clutch bolted in but without the trans (I'm think of how the clutch disc slides on the tranny splines)
Any other precautions to be aware of?
$0.02 appreciated.
#2
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The rotating assemblies are balanced with the harmonic balancer and the flywheel. The clutch doesn't have anything to do with it. Besides, with the clutch on, as soon as you press the clutch pedal the pressure plate will release the disk and it will fall out of alignment and throw the whole thing off balance. Just leave the clutch off and you'll be fine.
#6
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I posted in your other thread too, its probably the oil pan, and when you did the transmission you probably disturbed the gasket a little by unloading the pressure on the trans to oil pan bolts then bolting it back up. My pan was leaking and I would have put $100 on it that it was the rear main judging by the area it was leaking from. But it wasn't after all.
And you said the flywheel is dry, when you have a leaking rear main it is pretty much guaranteed it will get all over the flywheel. This is how I figured out I had a oil pan leak, my flexplate was clean and there was oil coming out of my transmission inspection plug on the bellhousing.
And you said the flywheel is dry, when you have a leaking rear main it is pretty much guaranteed it will get all over the flywheel. This is how I figured out I had a oil pan leak, my flexplate was clean and there was oil coming out of my transmission inspection plug on the bellhousing.
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You can defeat the clutch switch be popping the master cyl rod off the pedal arm. If you connect the HTOB and depress it off the trans, it will hyper extend and blow the seals out wasting a good part
For safety, Id suggest a strap holding the front of the engine up so it cant tip back as well as putting the bellhousing back on with atleast 2 bolts just so something cant vibrate loose and get caught in the flywheel
For safety, Id suggest a strap holding the front of the engine up so it cant tip back as well as putting the bellhousing back on with atleast 2 bolts just so something cant vibrate loose and get caught in the flywheel
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Appreciate all the input. Ran it for 5-minutes today with the flywheel on. Looked good. Not a drop in 5-minutes at idle. Guess all that RTV + spme new seals did something
Now if it starts leaking again since I put the tranny back in, I'll probably drive the car into a tree........
Now if it starts leaking again since I put the tranny back in, I'll probably drive the car into a tree........