AustinL911

iTrader: (-1)

Which is more bad ***? I'm soon to have ported and polished 5.3l heads with 2.02/ 1.57 valves, pacesetter non emission headers, 3" true duals with turndowns. Also, when I do get a cam, I will be ATTEMPTING to do the tuning myself. NEVER done it before, but I'm gonna try. Anyways, my mother is buying me a laptop for my bday, which is about a month after I will finish the cam install, which means, no tuning for atleast a month + however long it takes me to figure it out (VCM suite). Will the car be alright to drive on the weekends with no tuning for that month? Will it physically HURT the engine? or will it just drive shitty? I'm stuck between these 2 cams as they both sound great. It sounds like the TRex will be the cheaper way to go. $1300 sounds like alot for the X3 package, but, I hav yet to add up all the needed parts from TR's website, so, it may be around the same price. I'm also assuming flycutting is a must? The car is NOT a daily driver, just a weekend whoop-sum-*** machine. the more lopey and nasty, the better. Gear selection? I was thinking 4.56's , whenever I could get a better rearend...Thanks for any input. I also might spray a lil on down the road.

98SS Blackattack

Here is one VS the G5X2

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=5032

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

In the case that you are using aftemarket heads, The G5X-3 114LSA will fit without flycutting. The T-rex will not. The T-rex is a big cam, and it will make more power. The G5X-3 is alot smaller than the T-rex, contrary to what some might think. Both cams are completlly diffrent in how they go about getting there big number. Both cams will suck to drive without tuning, but I doubt you will hurt anything. If your looking for the best power, get the T-rex, but don't forget about P/V clearence.

AustinL911

iTrader: (-1)

Thunder Racing rents the Isky flycutting tool, correct? If so, how much, including shipping to Ohio? What shift point do you guys recommend to shift with this cam? (M6). I'm assuming a high shift point, in which case, would a stock bottom end be able to rev that high, without swapping in new rod bolts? Also, why is it that aftermarket heads require flycutting, but not stock ported and polished heads? Whats the biggest size valves can I run? Recommended springs, push rods, etc.? Sorry for all the questions, but I've thought about getting this work done for long enough, and need to get my *** in gear and start gathering some knowledge.

BB

iTrader: (7)

Definitely take advantage of the tons of info in this section. TR recommends the Crane or CC 921 springs with the TRex. You will want a spring that can handle about a .650 lift. You will need to check you P/V clearance. You will need hardened pushrods and you may need to get shorter ones depending how much your heads are milled.

Call TR and ask for Paul he will set you up esp if you are not sure on all you want.

For tuning you will need to read the posts in the PCM section. If you are getting LS1Edit to tune read their manual and join their mailing list. If you go for HPTuners product join their board.

Shifting will depend on your dyno results.

ARP rod bolts are your best protection. Read the post in this section about reving to 7K. You can do it but no tellin' how long it will last.

BTW, last time I talked to Paul at Thunder he said they did not rent the tool. Brent at TEA said they did but it was out right now.

Go to UPS.com and you can get shipping estimates or call TEA and ask them.

You need to fly cut because you have milled the head and your valves are closer to the piston. Plus you have large valves which will be closer to the piston.

Hope this helps.

AustinL911

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.

98SS Blackattack

link to their cam and heads


http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1114

AustinL911

iTrader: (-1)

thanks again.