2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Where would I get a Rev Kit (not Rev valve springs) for an LS1? Agastino used to make them but when I called, they said they nolonger make them .

Judas

I got a comp "rev kit" is this what your talking about?

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

ahh...different thing....thats a valve spring and retainer kit (what you got)

I'm looking for the springs that mount under rails and push directly on the outside body of the lifter (they are all over for SB and BB chevys).

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

I dont think anyone make one for the LS1 anymore, I looked also and never found one other than the one you found. I saw the article in PHR about 3 or 4 months ago that had them featured as a bolt on and was intrested but found out that they had stopped making them.

Nick Agostino

We still have all the fixturing but the CNC program has been lost . We can make them again if there is some interest.

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

Nick,
Maybe you can elaborate on why there are not many guys that run a REV kit? Are they just not that necessary due to the good springs on the market? Or because you have to pull the head to install one? I've always wondered why these weren't more popular.

Chris,
I think TPIS sells one too.

Craig

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I would REALLY REALLY like a set! LIKE NOW! TOMORROW! ASAP!

how much are/were they?

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

TPIS?

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

is the paired lifter to lifter spacing the same for LS1s and old school SBCs? I noticed that AFR makes a setup for SBCs and I wondered if the bottoms (lifter holders) could be used to make my own setup.

http://www.airflowresearch.com/pages/hydra_rev.htm

Nick Agostino

[QUOTE=2001CamaroGuy]is the paired lifter to lifter spacing the same for LS1s and old school SBCs? I noticed that AFR makes a setup for SBCs and I wondered if the bottoms (lifter holders) could be used to make my own setup.

NO they are not the same. The main reason for not selling them anymore was that there was not much demand and we spent alot of time and money developing the kit. The kit works great and used in many roadrace applications. For the everyday driver there was valvetrain noise and some timing was being taken away from false knock, we can fix this now with programming We had 2 versions, one with 25lbs base circle pressure and 65lbs open @ .600, the other was 35lbs base/ 80lbs open @.600, there was .700 travel in both set ups.

Another down fall was the heads had to come off to install the kit, this is just the way the LS1 was designed.

Hope this clears things up

MSURacing

iTrader: (1)

Camaro guy, how have you determined that you need a rev kit for your engine?? I can only assume that you have a big heavy stainless steel intake valve. If this is the case, I think the best thing for you to do if you are planning on removing your heads anyways, would be to replace whatever valve you have with a lighter weight hollow stem. This change alone will give you much more valve stability by reducing the inertia of the valve. Not only will this give you more RPM, it will also increase the durability of your valvetrain by putting less strain on the components.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

yep.....a 2.08" stainless intake valve. I thought about having the stem drilled to lighten the valve, but there is still the HEAVY mass of the lifter to contend with. If I can "remove" that weight from the system with a rev kit, then I can come down on the valve spring pressure and have an overall better setup.

Nick, how long would it take you to spin out another set?

Nick Agostino

Nick, how long would it take you to spin out another set? [/QUOTE]

The fixture cuts 8 sets at a time, the guy who's CNC machine that cut them for us has taken sick and has the program in his care I will see what is going this week and post back. I am not sure when we could make other sets untill we resolve this.

Thanks

slyws6

What I'm curious about is the way the old rev kits mounted on the SBC's compared to how they will mount on the LS1. There is no lifter valley and the outter diameter of the lifter is covered by the plastic guides, so how can you apply positive pressure to the body of the lifter in the LS1??? Also another reason the rev kits were popular with the SBC's was because 98% of them had flat tappet lifters. Have you ever seen a flat tappet cam lobe? Very *sharp* peaks on the cams, at high rpm's the lifters have a hard time staying on the lobe, therefore the Rev Kit's helped tremendously. With the way cam's are designed for Roller Liters nowadays you can safely rev an engine much higher. Today's valvetrain is also typically lighter and better than the old stuff. This has almost eliminated the need for a rev kit unless your going to rev the **** out of the engine. Just my .02

-Sly

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I spent all day looking at this problem myself and I'm going crazy . The three options that I see are:

a) Place a "link bar" on the lifters that prevents them from turning. Then have the springs press on this bar to apply their pressure to the lifter AND keep the bars from getting launched off. From pictures I have seen, I "think" this is how Agostino's is done (am I correct Nick?). My only problem with this (might not be a problem at all) is that when one lifter is higher than the other, the "link bar" is going to **** over (due to the spring pressure keeping the link on BOTH lifters) which will put all the load on one point of the lifter. The gain is its cheap and easy to setup.

B) Do the same as above but NOT have the spring press on the link bars. The link bars ONLY keep the lifters from turning. Instead, have little cups/caps (like on standard rev kits for SBCs) to locate a spring directly onto the lifter body (not touch the link bars). Then just let the link bars float on the lifters "retained" by the cups/springs (so the links don't fly off). This solves the "cocking" problem but somehow the "floating" link does not "feel" like a good idea to me.

C) Have link bars that ONLY keep the lifters from turning (like above). Then build a "T" (to replace the plastic piece) that would "reach" down and hold this bar flat (look at a retro fit kit for a non roller lifter SBC). Then use the little cup/caps to locate a spring directly onto the lifter body (not touch the link bars). The major problem here is cost of production. It would be many more parts to make this setup. The gain is that each part only does one job.


IF I had know I was going to need/want one of these last year when Agostino was still making these, I would have baught one and not be having this problem .

Nick Agostino

I will try and dig up some pictures of our system, I guess the $450/ set back then wasn't that bad Each lifter get pressure applied individually with a special link bar that holds the lifters from turning and the springs located on the lifters

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I would really like to see some pictures of the setup (in addition to having you make a set for me ).

1) So your saying that the spring does not even touch (ignoring the sides of the coils) the link bar? So what keeps the link bar from getting launched off the lifter?

2) Where did you find a spring with a small enough OD and what was its pressure (seat load)? Companies like Comp are just using a really light valve spring in there setups but it makes the spring OD quite a bit larger than the lifter (which is what caused me some problems in my design).

AZ Power & Sound

iTrader: (2)

I believe GMHTP had an article a while back with the rev kit installed... it was pretty bad *** looking! At this time I dont need the rev kit because I have LS6 valves and some bad *** springs, but when I do aftermarket heads I would more than likely be in the market if these were availaibe in a timely manor... timely like how long it takes my heads to get here!