angst911

it's the guy who posted in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/148711-darton-blocks.html

and to all who are saying "deck the block" It's not an option unless I want to buy new pistons, or find another way to lower my compression afterwards. The sleave is in good shape, not damaged at all. The scratch is not touching any of the coolant passages, look at it more closely and stop jumping to conclusions and "I wouldn't trust that" unless you are actually an experienced engine builder.

glen

iTrader: (1)

If U can feel the groove with your finger nail it is too deep for the surface. JB Weld or Loctite is not the answer. The head moves around to much for either to seal properly. The correct way is to pull the sleeve and weld the scratch and then resurface, but, you stated that you have already surfaced the deck as much as you can so that is not an option.

I think you are stuck between a rock and a hard spot and should take the block to a local 'professional'. Not some one that does mostly stock rebuilds.

Mark this block in a location that isn't easily accessable and photograph it. Send the block back to it's original source and demand another block. Hopefully this was charged on a credit card and you can file a dispute to get your money back. File a damage claim with the shipper, to cover all angles.Just document EVERYTHING on this block.

ROGERSPERF.

Ok now i know who he is i talked to him at lenigth at the PRI show last year he is a very sharp guy and knows what he is doing i would talk to steve agian and try to get a measuerment of how deep the scratch is send him the pictuers to.If he thinks it can be fixed with something then i would go with what he says.If any one should know he should since he has been doing this since the begining.





mike

angst911

I measured it. It's 9 or 10 thousandths deep at the worst point. He says the loctite stuff is perfect up to 15 thousands, I've send him the photo and he feels confident.

angst911

oh, and you can't tell from that photo, but the block is assembled, just needed heads, it was a complete shortblock, not a bare block.

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

Should have been packaged in a crate. Sound like whoever shipped it did not package it correctly and should be responsable.

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

Well, if you don't want to hear the opinions, don't post here asking for them. If you're stupid enough to assemble a $10,000+ motor, and take a huge chance because of a scratch like that, and your not wanting to deck/repair it properly, well you kinda deserve whatever you get, IMO. Weather you want to believe it or not, experienced people have chimed in (Nick Agostino ran 8s on a resleeved block, Cannibal's daily driver car runs 10s with a resleeved block, Nick@AP Enigneering, Rogers Performance), and just because they didn't give you the answer that you wanted to hear, you dismissed them. What do you think is gonna happen when the coolant passage gets pressurized, and that nice "creek" carved into the deck of your block provides an easy escape to the outside world? Keep us posted, should be entertaining.

Shawn

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Only way i would accept that is with a warranty that states "x" will replace my motor if a gasket blows and damaged my motor, and said "x" also agrees if I blow a gasket at all, even if no damaged is caused, they will still replace the block/parts/assembly, as you cant be expected to have to deal with that (if the scratched location is the culprit). I will be happy to show you the heavy duty, well packaged crate other sponsers use.
From everyone I know who has dealt w/ Steve, they think hes the best...
Make your own decision, theres enough opinions now.
This just plain sucks for you man...I feel 4 ya.

angst911

well, I am asking around a bit more with some people I know and trust who do engine building all the time, and I don't mean stock rebuilds, infact, I don't know anyone who does stock rebuilds. I trust steve's opinion on this since he did help design this setup. This is not a max effort setup, I'm only using a MTI S1 cam, and it will rarely see a small amount of spray. I'm running evan's coolant so the coolant pressure should stay much lower. In the future if I decide to go to a forced induction setup, the motor is going to have to be stripped and rebuilt anyways, so that would be the time to redeck it as I'd be putting in lower compression pistons for blower/turbo applications. I'm definately annoyed with JD's over how they shipped this. All they had to do was pack it securely, but aparently this was the first complete motor he had shipped. I'm going to talk with him more on monday and see if there is anything we can work out in the way of a warranty over this.

And to Spanky, the scratch is not nearly as bad as the photo makes it look, I am not ignoring the advice of the Nick's, Roger's, or those, it's the internet racers who are replying in the thread that I don't want to hear from, and the "you should demand this stuff", it's not neccesary or nearly what sort of opinions I am looking for. I want technical opinions, not advice on what I should demand from vendor's/shippers, I'll make my own decisions on who is at fault and pursue them if neccessary.

SnakeKiller

iTrader: (7)

I agree with spanky ls1. Heres an idea, just save your money on head gaskets and run a bead of JB weld around the deck surface, it might work.

Mike K.

When you say JD's you dont mean JD out of Pennsylvania that works with JPR do you? If you do you? I sure hope not. Don't take any chances I would first call JD or whoever you purchased the block from an tell them what happened and demand that it be made right. If JD did not package it correctly then he should help you. Did the motor come with any kind of warranty? Make sure its right before you install it and take the advice of all the others that Spanky listed in his post that have replied here.

Speedfreaks101

RA finish in laymans terms is how far apart the groves that are left when a cylinder head or cylinder head deck on a block are machined. This can be increased or decreased by the speed of the machine. RA finish is critical because is it is too coarse then when the engine heats and cools then it can saw through the head gasket and if the RA finsih is too fine it will not provide a good seal. The reason I tell you this is because the RA finish is something that we cannot feel with our sence of touch and it is very critical. You CAN see and touch this gash in the cylinder block deck surface so why would you even chance it. I would be very apprehensive about someone trying to get ME to correct a problem that is in their field of work. This just does ot strike me as being right. Also, is this how he would correct this in house?

As far as being worried about having more downtime, well think about how it will be if you do not persue getting this settled now and put the engine together and then have problems and the guy tells you hey man you should have brought it back or the shipping co says tuff you passed your time limit. Unless you have unlimited funds then go back and have this corrected with a another block. It will not be worth the heartache. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

later,
Bart

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

I'm with Spanky as well. You are the consumer and you bought a new motor. It should not have arrived damaged, nor should you have to try and fix a damaged product. Even if the shipping company caused the scratch, shame on JD for not having it properly packaged. Its apparent who is at fault. If this were truly JD's first motor to ship, he needs to take it back, learn from his mistake, and not let it happen again.

If it were me, I'd send it right back to JD, then call up Steve @ race-engines and buy it direct.

angst911

Yes, that JD. This was ordered well before the JD-JPR mess.......

4thGENRETARD

Did you take any pics on the package. Actually they are both at fault (Shipper and carrier). The shop sould have package it better and FedEX shouldn't accept the package unless done to standards. Actually maybe I'm wrong but it looks that this scratch was done before shipping, as there is not even a blemmish in the bore sleeve.,

Uthinkso

How was the block shipped? I know we crate up every block or engine before it leaves. I thought that was common practice.

MYTURBOT/A

I heard about all the problems you had getting the block and now that you finaly got the block it`s scratched, that sucks man. I wouldn`t chance it thats a nasty scratch or more like a gash and i don`t think it will seal if you don`t get it fixed. I`d send it right back to them and tell them to fix it right.

angst911

Yeah, how it was packed... what a joke... attaching pictures

antz01ta

iTrader: (3)

whoever packaged that thing is an ***

Spinmonster

The way the scrach goes up to the sleeve and stops shows that the block was damaged before the sleeves went in. If you have a welder with the slightest hand, you can do a small bead and redeck the block taking it down to zero.

The builder figured that the redecking would fix it and after gambling on that was in too far with the sleeves. I also use cometics and the seal for the water goes over that point. JB weld WILL fix it IMO as it is not super high pressure but I would be pissed about it.