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Low RPM Misfire/Hesitation Issue

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Old 02-01-2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
I was constantly tripping a P0300 code and it turns out that running dual springs for the valves can cause symptoms like a large cam.

The solution is to "open up" the miss fire tables.

In your case, I think you have a throttle body problem as you can get the problem to appear if you throttle it slowly.

You don't say whether your motor is modded or not.
Thanks for your response. Motor is bone stock with only 55k miles on it. Only thing I have done is changed the spark plugs and wires. The misfires were few and far between after the plug and wire swap, but it still came back intermittently.

What do you mean by throttle body problem? Before I replaced the plugs and wires, I did find the air tube running to the throttle body was not tightened 100% and was loose. I re-tightened it. Doubt anything got in there though.
Old 02-01-2012, 12:42 PM
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The throttle body is a "fly by wire" and has a small motor in it to move the vane.

Since you can "stab" the throttle and it doesn't hesitate (closed to open sweep) vs a slow throttle opening as it may hit a "dead spot" in the movement sweep.
Old 02-01-2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
The throttle body is a "fly by wire" and has a small motor in it to move the vane.

Since you can "stab" the throttle and it doesn't hesitate (closed to open sweep) vs a slow throttle opening as it may hit a "dead spot" in the movement sweep.
Thank you for the explanation. Any way I can test the throttle body motor to see if it isn't operating correctly? Or do I need the GM hand held diagnostic tool?
Old 02-01-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
The throttle body is a "fly by wire" and has a small motor in it to move the vane.

Since you can "stab" the throttle and it doesn't hesitate (closed to open sweep) vs a slow throttle opening as it may hit a "dead spot" in the movement sweep.

Bad TPS?




Either way Kurlee, all we can do is speculate and give some suggestions and ideas, but in the end, you're going to have to have someone look at it and diagnose it.
Old 02-01-2012, 12:52 PM
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does this engine still use an egr valve? if so, disconnect vacuum to the valve, and see if gthe problem goes away. if so, you've probably got a bad solenoid.
Old 02-01-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurlee Daddee
Thank you for the explanation. Any way I can test the throttle body motor to see if it isn't operating correctly? Or do I need the GM hand held diagnostic tool?
You might be able to see or feel if it is "hesitating" through a sweep, although I think that is gonna be difficult to "see".

I think TECHII can monitor the sweep.

Last edited by heavymetals; 02-01-2012 at 01:10 PM.
Old 02-01-2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by sepsis

Either way Kurlee, all we can do is speculate and give some suggestions and ideas, but in the end, you're going to have to have someone look at it and diagnose it.
Your right. I hate giving up trying to fix it myself, but I also don't want to keep throwing parts at it either. Thank God for tax return money
Old 02-01-2012, 11:31 PM
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If you can get it on a good scanner you will be able to view the TPS signal live, that would allow you to view the voltage the computer is seeing from the TPS during wot or part throttle conditions...that's the best way I have found to rule out the throttle body unit, I'm pretty sure iac and TPS are all integrated in the tb unit...def try disconnecting egr like the other guy said that will let you know if ur egr solenoid is bad
Old 02-02-2012, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Kurlee Daddee
Pulled the code and it was:

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

I am certain I gapped all the plugs properly and all plug wires are secure. Now what?
look for vacuum leak

you need to eliminate the simple things first.

Last edited by 1ltcap; 02-02-2012 at 08:54 AM.
Old 02-15-2012, 06:28 PM
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Brought my car to the shop. The mechanic called me with the diagnosis. Two faulty coils. #7 and #4. He confirmed it with his GM handheld. He also checked fuel pressure among other things and it was fine.

When I called to confirm that the car was done, the mechanic told me that when he replaced coil # 7, his hand held reader showed no more faults. Apparently #7 coil was reverberatting causing the other to coil to look bad. So he only charged me for one coil and labor.

Car runs perfect now, so I'm happy.



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