Setting the Record STRAIGHT
Setting the Record STRAIGHT I feel the need to set some things straight about my cars setup after some comments were made in this Patriot thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/149560-hmmm-patriot-performance.html
Sorry for the long post
Mods, feel free to move this to another forum, I wasn't quite sure where to post this, but this is where the previous thread was. THANKS!
My reply is for all these comments made above. To start off with here is the info on my car:
2001 Camaro Z28, A4, no options/stipper car
Removed 24/7:
Washer Fluid Bottle
Front Sway Bar
Removed for track only:
seats
spare tire/jack
stock wheels/tires for Convo Pros and slicks
Added weight:
SFC's
5-point roll bar
Car still has:
ALL air bags, bumpers (front and rear), crash beams in doors, full STOCK carpet, A/C, stock k-member, stock A-arms, radio and all but rear speakers (because of roll bar), and i am also running the stock brake setup.
When I first bought my car, I knew what my intensions were. I wanted a fun car to drive. I love Camaros (previous car was 93 Z28). I knew this car was going to be going to the track so that is why I purchased a no option car for that reason and because all the power stuff just goes out some day anyways, and usually after warranty expires Just wanted to let you all know that my car is not a gutted tin can and I dont think we stipper cars should be penalized becuase we bought the right car the first time 
If you want a fast "street car" then to each is own. I take all my racing to the track, where it should be and that is why my car is setup the way it is and why I bought stuff like drag wheels. If you want to put the numbers down on the track you have to be able to HOOK, and when you start adding power to the car, the harder it is to hook. That is why you do things like weight transfer and buy suspension parts that help. A 3600# H/C class is a joke IMO. That is what the 12.0 index is for
Another thing...my car is a STREET CAR. The new H/C combo itself already has over 300 miles on it in just a few weeks time. The car doesnt get driven as much as some others, but that is because I am a stay-at-home mom so I dont have a job to drive to everyday like everyone else. Just wanted to put my .02 in about everything. If I missed something be sure to let me know.
BTW I would love to make the N vs S shootout in Indiana, so if anyone wants to pay my travel expenses and hotel I will be there
Sorry for the long post
Mods, feel free to move this to another forum, I wasn't quite sure where to post this, but this is where the previous thread was. THANKS!
ITs really about the 440o stall converters / rims / slicks / skinnines / Hals / Gears / track prep / driver / and ofcourse being Light weight among other things.
Most people have street / strip cars and are not willing to do everything necessary to make there cars work thats why there are stock internal cars running 13`s and others running mid to low 11`s. and h/c cars running from 12`s to 10`s range.
Look how great Lyndas car was running with stock internals. 11.5 ? I think. Its all in the setup more than its the hp making the lower track times.
Would these cars go faster with more hp? Sure they would if they can still hook them up. So lets not go and say hp doesnt matter at all.
I know its been said before but If you dont have the whole package you are not gonna run these times.
Most people have street / strip cars and are not willing to do everything necessary to make there cars work thats why there are stock internal cars running 13`s and others running mid to low 11`s. and h/c cars running from 12`s to 10`s range.
Look how great Lyndas car was running with stock internals. 11.5 ? I think. Its all in the setup more than its the hp making the lower track times.
Would these cars go faster with more hp? Sure they would if they can still hook them up. So lets not go and say hp doesnt matter at all.
I know its been said before but If you dont have the whole package you are not gonna run these times.
There's more to this debate than who's got the best heads out there. Like offaxis said, some of us out there don't have the combination to run 10s, like me. There are street cars and race cars. What the hell is so impressive about a gutted out car running the times I've seen posted? Nothing, IMHO. Cars with gutted interiors and just a driver's seat! Can it get any more ricey than that? I'd like to see anyone out there run 10s in a stock bottom end H/C car that weighs in at 3600 lbs and is wearing stock 16" or 17" wheels and et streets. That would be impressive.
I propose that at the next big race event the weight minimum be 3600 lbs for F-bodies, stock wheels and full interiors, no balast. Let's see how many cars are in the 10s.
The 3600 lb weight would also give us H/C street car guys a fighting chance.
I propose that at the next big race event the weight minimum be 3600 lbs for F-bodies, stock wheels and full interiors, no balast. Let's see how many cars are in the 10s.
The 3600 lb weight would also give us H/C street car guys a fighting chance.
Race cars don't do a damn thing for me. Very one dimensional. I like fast street cars. Besides, not all of us want to gut our cars and dump alot of money into tubular K-frames, a arms, coil overs and light weight (ie: useless on the street) racing brakes. I can build my 98 into a trailer queen and use my 02 as my street car, but I din't see the point right now. I was thinking about gutting my 98 (air bags, bumpers, door beams, etc), but I got into a pretty bad accident a week and a half ago in my daily driver. A lady who, and I quote, " was drinking Southern Comfort and doing cocaine all night ", was speeding in the rain, lost control of her car and plowed into my car, changed all that. Thank God for the air bag in my lil Buick.
Most of the fast 10 sec cars on these BBs are race cars proported to be street cars. Yeah, they get driven on the street now and again, but I don't consider a car w/o bumpers and missing seats a street car. Bring the weight minimum to 3600 lbs ( w/o balast ) and you'd see alot more cars turning out for the big LS1 racing events. Some of these street cars might even teach the race cars a thing or two. If this is not an option, then let's start a new class for the H/C guys out there. There's far more H/C street cars out there than gutted race cars.
Most of the fast 10 sec cars on these BBs are race cars proported to be street cars. Yeah, they get driven on the street now and again, but I don't consider a car w/o bumpers and missing seats a street car. Bring the weight minimum to 3600 lbs ( w/o balast ) and you'd see alot more cars turning out for the big LS1 racing events. Some of these street cars might even teach the race cars a thing or two. If this is not an option, then let's start a new class for the H/C guys out there. There's far more H/C street cars out there than gutted race cars.
I would like to see a higher minimum since I don't want to have to go nuts getting weight off my car. I'd guess that Camarocain weighs quite a bit less than me, and I have to strip that much out of the car while using it as my daily driver. I did the simple stuff - spare, jack, sway bar, wiper fluid, etc - and still weighed 3535. I have to find 185 lbs while keeping it street worthy.
But I don't understand "w/o balast". That means that most of the cars at SBSO can't run in your class???
But I don't understand "w/o balast". That means that most of the cars at SBSO can't run in your class???
Lynda's car weighs in the neighborhood of 3350 lbs, which was the weight requirement for her class. My car has never weighed less than 3450 lbs, stock 16" wheels and tires, jack/spare, sway bar, 1/4 tank, etc. I weigh 200 lbs. So I, and many others would have to remove about 300 lbs from the car. Please tell me how to do that and still keep the bumpers, air bags, A/C, power steering, carpet, stereo in my car. Please do not refer to the weight reduction list, I've read it several times. Some of those mods are a bit extreme. Racing wheels, skinnies, slicks w/o tubes, no sway bar, no jack/spare, I'll even say no back seat = 150 lbs or so.
W/O ballast, ie: a gutted car with weight added to the rearward portion of the car to bring it within weight specs and at the same time aiding traction.
W/O ballast, ie: a gutted car with weight added to the rearward portion of the car to bring it within weight specs and at the same time aiding traction.
Personally, I don't see anything wrong with a 3500# min and letting Lynda add 150#. I doubt that adding 150# in the rear will be an advantage as we are not really tire limited. If we had to run street tires I can see where it would help. But if it really is an issue, punish the tin cans by making them put the ballast in front but let them run
You might think ballast in the rear would not help our cars, oh but it does. So I propose this:
A race class for the tuner/shop cars. Paul @ Thunder, Trevor @ TSP, and so on. They can decided what race weight to agree upon. If a non shop car wants to run in the tuner/shop bracket, and you think you can be competitive, that's fine too.
Then a class for everyone else. Most of us can't and shouldn't have to compete against the shop cars (shop pimp cars included). They get parts at wholesale price and have access to dyno/ls1 edit anytime. Make this class 3600 lbs, heads-up racing. I bet it would be quite competitive, maybe not quite as fun to watch w/o the big wheelies of the stripper cars, but fun nontheless.
A race class for the tuner/shop cars. Paul @ Thunder, Trevor @ TSP, and so on. They can decided what race weight to agree upon. If a non shop car wants to run in the tuner/shop bracket, and you think you can be competitive, that's fine too.
Then a class for everyone else. Most of us can't and shouldn't have to compete against the shop cars (shop pimp cars included). They get parts at wholesale price and have access to dyno/ls1 edit anytime. Make this class 3600 lbs, heads-up racing. I bet it would be quite competitive, maybe not quite as fun to watch w/o the big wheelies of the stripper cars, but fun nontheless.
2001 Camaro Z28, A4, no options/stipper car
Removed 24/7:
Washer Fluid Bottle
Front Sway Bar
Removed for track only:
seats
spare tire/jack
stock wheels/tires for Convo Pros and slicks
Added weight:
SFC's
5-point roll bar
Car still has:
ALL air bags, bumpers (front and rear), crash beams in doors, full STOCK carpet, A/C, stock k-member, stock A-arms, radio and all but rear speakers (because of roll bar), and i am also running the stock brake setup.
When I first bought my car, I knew what my intensions were. I wanted a fun car to drive. I love Camaros (previous car was 93 Z28). I knew this car was going to be going to the track so that is why I purchased a no option car for that reason and because all the power stuff just goes out some day anyways, and usually after warranty expires
Just wanted to let you all know that my car is not a gutted tin can and I dont think we stipper cars should be penalized becuase we bought the right car the first time If you want a fast "street car" then to each is own. I take all my racing to the track, where it should be and that is why my car is setup the way it is and why I bought stuff like drag wheels. If you want to put the numbers down on the track you have to be able to HOOK, and when you start adding power to the car, the harder it is to hook. That is why you do things like weight transfer and buy suspension parts that help. A 3600# H/C class is a joke IMO. That is what the 12.0 index is for
Another thing...my car is a STREET CAR. The new H/C combo itself already has over 300 miles on it in just a few weeks time. The car doesnt get driven as much as some others, but that is because I am a stay-at-home mom so I dont have a job to drive to everyday like everyone else. Just wanted to put my .02 in about everything. If I missed something be sure to let me know.
BTW I would love to make the N vs S shootout in Indiana, so if anyone wants to pay my travel expenses and hotel I will be there
These guys are a joke Lynda, its obvious that some of them think a car must be gutted to run well. I also think they use lame excuses to try and discredit your car, since their own might not be up to par.
Lynda's Camaro is far from a stripped down "race car". Its her daily-driver that she hauls her young daughter around in. Her husband Clint and her have worked hard on that car, dialing it in to run those times. They didn't just slap it together overnight.
Another good example to compare it to is with Sheila Day's car (TXCAMSS), another daily-driven Camaro that runs 10s with heads/cam. Both are excellent examples of TRUE street cars that haul ***.
Tony
Lynda's Camaro is far from a stripped down "race car". Its her daily-driver that she hauls her young daughter around in. Her husband Clint and her have worked hard on that car, dialing it in to run those times. They didn't just slap it together overnight.
Another good example to compare it to is with Sheila Day's car (TXCAMSS), another daily-driven Camaro that runs 10s with heads/cam. Both are excellent examples of TRUE street cars that haul ***.
Tony
Originally Posted by mikemodano9c
what is your raceweight?
haha i think that weight class idea is funny...this isnt boxing
haha i think that weight class idea is funny...this isnt boxing
All weights are listed with the slips
You ended up getting singled out, for some reason. I too think the whole 3600 lb thing is redicilous, simply because that is not how these cars are usually run. He's also assuming that most (if not all) 10 sec H/C cars are "tin cans with gutted interiors and race seats", which is just not so. Even those of us with fully optioned cars can get down to 3300-3400 pretty easily. He then goes to to say that "Race cars don't do a damn thing for me. Very one dimensional", yet he wants to race in the LS1TECH Racing series. 
For those unwilling to do what is necessary to be competitive, either enter the brackets or the car shows, IMO. You and others built your car to fit in a class, then everyone who isn't/can't be competitive tries to change the rules to better suit them. IMO, the rules are what they are, they are the same for everybody, run whatcha brung (within the rules) and hope you brung enough!
Shawn
For those unwilling to do what is necessary to be competitive, either enter the brackets or the car shows, IMO. You and others built your car to fit in a class, then everyone who isn't/can't be competitive tries to change the rules to better suit them. IMO, the rules are what they are, they are the same for everybody, run whatcha brung (within the rules) and hope you brung enough!Shawn
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
oh...im a retard.... 
your car hauls ***!
haha...3350 stripped down? please...its not stripped down until its under 3k...
i wouldnt listen to these people
your car hauls ***!
haha...3350 stripped down? please...its not stripped down until its under 3k...
i wouldnt listen to these people
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
Trending Topics
well, another thing is my car is just not a dyno queen by any means. Bolt-ons only, before the H/C were installed my car dynoed a whooping 305 rwhp on the first pull and 310 rwhp on the 2nd. I think a 99 rwhp gain is pretty good for my new combo, thank you very much I am very happy with it
I am very happy with it LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by offaxis
Not sure why you quoted what I said . I thought I said nice things but whatever.
I think you were making a point to say my PATRIOT Heads are not making good power, and the ONLY reason my car runs good is because of everything else besides whats under the hood. If I am wrong in ASSuming this, please let me know. Im many posts I said you are making great power so I have no Idea why you are so defensive. The fact I said you car is set up and works was not a saying your heads suck. I could careless about whos heads you have. I guess saying your car was fast stock internal which i thought was a compliment you took wrong. Your car is faster then mine so what bad stuff could I really have to say about it.
Originally Posted by offaxis
Im many posts I said you are making great power so I have no Idea why you are so defensive. The fact I said you car is set up and works was not a saying your heads suck. I could careless about whos heads you have. I guess saying your car was fast stock internal which i thought was a compliment you took wrong. Your car is faster then mine so what bad stuff could I really have to say about it.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
i would be interested in seeing your LOCKED numbers lynda...its strange how some people even with just yank converters are seeing anywhere from 10-40rw from just locking them up on the dyno...
if anyone says your dyno numbers are low i bet a locked dynorun would shut them up pretty quick...
i wonder how much my little 3200 midwest would gain locked up...since i was hoping for a little more than the 397/404 i pulled the other day...
i posted my numbers and thoughts and everyone is telling me to shut up and run the car...that im trying to be a dynoqueen with an auto...i dont see it that way. even though i own an automatic car that will end up being setup for the track, it still should make the power i want it to...
sometimes i think people forget a4 or m6 what your car puts down your car puts down...setup determines the end result, but it still starts with what power you make. i have no doubt your car would be right up there dyno-wise with the big heads/cam m6 guys if it were locked up...
again...great car, good setup, great job with the car!!!
if anyone says your dyno numbers are low i bet a locked dynorun would shut them up pretty quick...
i wonder how much my little 3200 midwest would gain locked up...since i was hoping for a little more than the 397/404 i pulled the other day...
i posted my numbers and thoughts and everyone is telling me to shut up and run the car...that im trying to be a dynoqueen with an auto...i dont see it that way. even though i own an automatic car that will end up being setup for the track, it still should make the power i want it to...
sometimes i think people forget a4 or m6 what your car puts down your car puts down...setup determines the end result, but it still starts with what power you make. i have no doubt your car would be right up there dyno-wise with the big heads/cam m6 guys if it were locked up...
again...great car, good setup, great job with the car!!!
at the time we didnt have a tech II or whatever is needed to Lock it up, and I do not run a lock up switch on the car. I my self am a little curious, as I have always thought my car was not performing well on the top end compared to others, and I wonder if it is due to converter efficency
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
at the time we didnt have a tech II or whatever is needed to Lock it up, and I do not run a lock up switch on the car. I my self am a little curious, as I have always thought my car was not performing well on the top end compared to others, and I wonder if it is due to converter efficency
i see more and more posts of converters (yanks) loosing big power up top when not locked up...
think about this on a track run...1st goes by quickly, 2nd as well, 3rd is your long pulling gear (depending on gearing as well) that you will have during a track run. you could be loosing good mph and some et by not locking it up or due to poor efficiency.
i believe hugger ss gained 3-4 mph by locking up his high stall yank in 3rd...and some et
the way i see it you should probably dynotune and set a/f unlocked as you drive on the street, maybe check the tune once with the converter locked, and then get your true numbers with the converter locked on the dyno... (this was my car was getting tuned, but i blew up the housing before we could get a locked run in). this way your tune if for how you drive your car *unlocked* on the street and at the track...where the converter is loose and you are generating your tq through the converter...that way your a/f is set how it would be driven and track raced...it was explained to me by what i consider a very competent and professional tuner...makes sense to me.
your car might make 450rw with your yank locked up...i bet money it makes over 440 locked...
just because your run 10's all motor...doesnt mean it couldnt be even faster!!!
if my thinking is correct a locked converter automatic *barring a problem* should be a very fair comparison with a 6 speed if you add around 5% more drivetrain loss...if this is not the case...then i say the auto isnt making the power it should and i dont wanna hear about all of this "its an auto its supposed to dyno low" BS
Last edited by mikemodano9c; Mar 18, 2004 at 10:19 PM.
I can only go by JFM`s car but he has the same yank and he gains about 10 or so hp locked. I think any more than 20 I think there is a problem with the converter.
I have seen big drops on vigs and others like tcs etc. The yanks are usually pretty good though
I have seen big drops on vigs and others like tcs etc. The yanks are usually pretty good though
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Frisco TX (Dallas Area)
Run what you brung! I'm gonna have a 36-3700 pound steet car that's gonna be fast, not he fastest, just fast! Have fun! Quit your bitchin'. Give props to the fastest one and enjoy the sport. If you want to be the fastest, do what it takes! A weight class would just be more rules to worry about. If you want to run heads up - do it. If not, do the brackets. It's that simple!
A weight class would just be more rules to worry about. If you want to run heads up - do it. If not, do the brackets. It's that simple! 
I dont even know lynda but I will say for sure her car is DAMN IMPRESSIVE
I have a Cartek X package and the BEST it ever ran was 11.14@122.Carteks working on getting it to go alittle quicker but again I was hoping for alittle better with the car and it never materialized.
One reason is I weigh 300lbs,I'm a big guy.
My car is fairly gutted,I do have the air bags still there and the radio,impact door bars and door panels and what not but I have a kmember and arms,lightweight exhaust,lw carpet,one seat etc but the problem is my car with ME in it is still over 3500lbs.
Thats the problem,I cant compete with these 3350 or less cars.
Its just not gonna happen so I need to see what others weigh to compare my car and see how close we really are in terms of power.
Again,I've learned a whole lot on here,I dont think u need LS6 heads,I dont think u need a cam more than 230-590 lift and I dont think u need killer air to run 10's.The COMBO needs to be tweeked and played with along with some hook and u will be rewarded with a 10-Sec pass.
Lynda your car is impressive and I take my hat off to ya.
IMO u might have one of the most impressive cars on the board..
As much as I say the PI's are as good,I might go back to a Yank TP4400 although I have seen some Yanks lose ALOT too,clutches go in them...
But its still a bad *** verter.
I might try a TCI steet stator 4400.
They are good guys and are doing alot of R&D....
I really believe my PI is the one thing holding me back (lost 31RW locked/unlocked) from a 10 Sec pass and come 2 or 3 weeks I am gonna test 2 different verters to find out once and for all.
Dyno smyno,Set the car up properly and it'll run 10's....
FWIW lynda's car will go over 430RW locked,that u can be sure of boys...
I have a Cartek X package and the BEST it ever ran was 11.14@122.Carteks working on getting it to go alittle quicker but again I was hoping for alittle better with the car and it never materialized.
One reason is I weigh 300lbs,I'm a big guy.
My car is fairly gutted,I do have the air bags still there and the radio,impact door bars and door panels and what not but I have a kmember and arms,lightweight exhaust,lw carpet,one seat etc but the problem is my car with ME in it is still over 3500lbs.
Thats the problem,I cant compete with these 3350 or less cars.
Its just not gonna happen so I need to see what others weigh to compare my car and see how close we really are in terms of power.
Again,I've learned a whole lot on here,I dont think u need LS6 heads,I dont think u need a cam more than 230-590 lift and I dont think u need killer air to run 10's.The COMBO needs to be tweeked and played with along with some hook and u will be rewarded with a 10-Sec pass.
Lynda your car is impressive and I take my hat off to ya.
IMO u might have one of the most impressive cars on the board..
As much as I say the PI's are as good,I might go back to a Yank TP4400 although I have seen some Yanks lose ALOT too,clutches go in them...
But its still a bad *** verter.
I might try a TCI steet stator 4400.
They are good guys and are doing alot of R&D....
I really believe my PI is the one thing holding me back (lost 31RW locked/unlocked) from a 10 Sec pass and come 2 or 3 weeks I am gonna test 2 different verters to find out once and for all.
Dyno smyno,Set the car up properly and it'll run 10's....
FWIW lynda's car will go over 430RW locked,that u can be sure of boys...
"All Motor 9 Second club member"
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 2
From: On the Bumper!
Yeah a lighter car can move down the 1320 quicker, but the package makes the car and you have to be consistent to win.
I weighed yesterday at HRP and was as light as I'll ever see and it was 3392#s. I only wish I had planned a little in advance as Lynda and Clint did, but I have seen their car and it is not anywhere close to being a "tin can". I consider our car to be very comparable to Lyndas except the heavier factory options such as leather, cruise, TCS etc. They have built an effecient car. That's all there is to it. Accept the fact that some set ups are most efficient and get the most out of the HP produced. I have seen their dyno and like our measly 405 rwhp, every ounce of it is used to propel that car in a straight line without wasting anything.
Our car is driven daily and it feels very comfortable to do so. No surging , stumbling or dying. Can we be beat? Hell yeah, but you better be able to hook and make it down the 1/4 straight and error free or you will see tail lights.
I feel comfortable in saying that both Lynda and I have added much more weight in safety equipment alone than we have removed.
I would love to strip it down and see what is possible , but that is not our goal. You guys need to set your own goals and achieve them. Don't expect us to meet yours.
Not flaming, but I think credit should be given when it is warranted. The Cains car is flying and it hasn't even been lined out yet.
(Off my soap box)
I weighed yesterday at HRP and was as light as I'll ever see and it was 3392#s. I only wish I had planned a little in advance as Lynda and Clint did, but I have seen their car and it is not anywhere close to being a "tin can". I consider our car to be very comparable to Lyndas except the heavier factory options such as leather, cruise, TCS etc. They have built an effecient car. That's all there is to it. Accept the fact that some set ups are most efficient and get the most out of the HP produced. I have seen their dyno and like our measly 405 rwhp, every ounce of it is used to propel that car in a straight line without wasting anything.
Our car is driven daily and it feels very comfortable to do so. No surging , stumbling or dying. Can we be beat? Hell yeah, but you better be able to hook and make it down the 1/4 straight and error free or you will see tail lights.
I feel comfortable in saying that both Lynda and I have added much more weight in safety equipment alone than we have removed.
I would love to strip it down and see what is possible , but that is not our goal. You guys need to set your own goals and achieve them. Don't expect us to meet yours.
Not flaming, but I think credit should be given when it is warranted. The Cains car is flying and it hasn't even been lined out yet.
(Off my soap box)
Originally Posted by mikemodano9c
i would be interested in seeing your LOCKED numbers lynda...its strange how some people even with just yank converters are seeing anywhere from 10-40rw from just locking them up on the dyno...
if anyone says your dyno numbers are low i bet a locked dynorun would shut them up pretty quick...
i wonder how much my little 3200 midwest would gain locked up...since i was hoping for a little more than the 397/404 i pulled the other day...
i posted my numbers and thoughts and everyone is telling me to shut up and run the car...that im trying to be a dynoqueen with an auto...i dont see it that way. even though i own an automatic car that will end up being setup for the track, it still should make the power i want it to...
sometimes i think people forget a4 or m6 what your car puts down your car puts down...setup determines the end result, but it still starts with what power you make. i have no doubt your car would be right up there dyno-wise with the big heads/cam m6 guys if it were locked up...
again...great car, good setup, great job with the car!!!
if anyone says your dyno numbers are low i bet a locked dynorun would shut them up pretty quick...
i wonder how much my little 3200 midwest would gain locked up...since i was hoping for a little more than the 397/404 i pulled the other day...
i posted my numbers and thoughts and everyone is telling me to shut up and run the car...that im trying to be a dynoqueen with an auto...i dont see it that way. even though i own an automatic car that will end up being setup for the track, it still should make the power i want it to...
sometimes i think people forget a4 or m6 what your car puts down your car puts down...setup determines the end result, but it still starts with what power you make. i have no doubt your car would be right up there dyno-wise with the big heads/cam m6 guys if it were locked up...
again...great car, good setup, great job with the car!!!
Maybe you can convince him with your post though, I'll make sure he reads it