Pro-Comp Head Studs sold on Ebay
#41
TECH Junkie
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I'd bet $$$ that they have checked them. There are (at least) two reaons you won't hear either way. One, they are as good and it's a business decision to keep it hushed. Two, if they are NOT as good and ARP were to say this publicly, there will be lawyers involved and you know what that means...
#43
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A lot of extra dollars are spent on engine builds because most people do not know what works and is good enough or overkill...so they go overkill because it makes them feel better. I love arp stuff and it is a rip off for anything but a race engine and probabley there also. I recently built a 600 rwhp ls7, 427 and used a lot of top of the line components. I also used factory head and main bolts, oil pump, cam chain. I spent my money on heads, intake, valvesprings, cam, head gaskets, rods, and crankshaft. I would probably try the ebay stuff for the savings. If it holds the torque it will probably be fine.
#44
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What's the need for head studs? The way that everyone is saying that for mild builds these studs may work fine, but why would you need studs on a mild build? You can find used ARP bolts here for $100 shipped and brand new ones for $150...
If you are going to chance your build by using eBay head studs, you may as well not even bother degreeing your cam, measuring PTV clearance with a custom cam, and just impact the heads down to the block...
Just my $.02
If you are going to chance your build by using eBay head studs, you may as well not even bother degreeing your cam, measuring PTV clearance with a custom cam, and just impact the heads down to the block...
Just my $.02
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#47
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What's the need for head studs? The way that everyone is saying that for mild builds these studs may work fine, but why would you need studs on a mild build? You can find used ARP bolts here for $100 shipped and brand new ones for $150...
If you are going to chance your build by using eBay head studs, you may as well not even bother degreeing your cam, measuring PTV clearance with a custom cam, and just impact the heads down to the block...
Just my $.02![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
If you are going to chance your build by using eBay head studs, you may as well not even bother degreeing your cam, measuring PTV clearance with a custom cam, and just impact the heads down to the block...
Just my $.02
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#48
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From my PERSONAL experience there is nothing wrong with the ebay headstuds. I have them on my 6.0 and another user burger has them on his engine with I believe a 300 shot. Most people who use these don't know how to install them. Ie. Leave **** in the bores or don't put anti seize on the threads while installing them and break them or use an uncalibrated torque wrench. Also most people go off what they hear on here. Which 90% of what this site is, is useless bickering and gossip if you don't spend 10,000 on your motor it won't perform at all. Kind of like the custom cam scam...
#49
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What's the need for head studs? The way that everyone is saying that for mild builds these studs may work fine, but why would you need studs on a mild build? You can find used ARP bolts here for $100 shipped and brand new ones for $150...
If you are going to chance your build by using eBay head studs, you may as well not even bother degreeing your cam, measuring PTV clearance with a custom cam, and just impact the heads down to the block...
Just my $.02![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
If you are going to chance your build by using eBay head studs, you may as well not even bother degreeing your cam, measuring PTV clearance with a custom cam, and just impact the heads down to the block...
Just my $.02
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
Truth Truth.
I'm surprised someone hasn't done a LS1 Ebay engine build. Reground cam, ebay head studs, some heads no one has ever heard of, XS headers( I gots me some of those) rocker arms and maybe a CAI.
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#50
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ive used the ebay head studs for 3 years now. theyve been on and off the motor 3 times and still no issues. I must have gotten a good set lmao. my motto is: if you dont know or haven used them, then keep your mouth shut and let the people who do have experience with them chime in.
#55
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I personally wouldn't use the ebay studs, without more posts of people who have used them and give me some more confidence. However, I will say ARP is NOT perfect. My Camaro has ARP Rod bolts, cam bolts, harmonic bolt, head bolts and I had no issues, I'm even using the same ARP stuff on my LSX Foxbody build.
About two months ago a buddy of mine built a 383 LT1 and used all ARP fasteners, first we got the head studs and whoever machined them, had machined both ends as Fine thread rather than fine thread/Coarse Thread...Called ARP and they argued with him til he said he wouldn't ever buy another product from em and then they sent new studs. We got to install the rotating assembly, they sent us studs that were too short to run a windage tray, which they claimed would work without issue, not a huge deal so I machined some spacers for the windage tray. Get the motor in and it runs good til we find a vacuum leak, so we fix that and start up again...buddy revs the engine to 4k and throws a rod through the block......We pulled the oil pan off and two of the rod bolt nuts had no threads in em...the bolts wiped out the threads. The builder followed the installation instructions exactly. This had to be an ARP failure...we have tried calling them weekly for the two months now and after we give names and ask for someone high up they either ignore the call or hang up.
About two months ago a buddy of mine built a 383 LT1 and used all ARP fasteners, first we got the head studs and whoever machined them, had machined both ends as Fine thread rather than fine thread/Coarse Thread...Called ARP and they argued with him til he said he wouldn't ever buy another product from em and then they sent new studs. We got to install the rotating assembly, they sent us studs that were too short to run a windage tray, which they claimed would work without issue, not a huge deal so I machined some spacers for the windage tray. Get the motor in and it runs good til we find a vacuum leak, so we fix that and start up again...buddy revs the engine to 4k and throws a rod through the block......We pulled the oil pan off and two of the rod bolt nuts had no threads in em...the bolts wiped out the threads. The builder followed the installation instructions exactly. This had to be an ARP failure...we have tried calling them weekly for the two months now and after we give names and ask for someone high up they either ignore the call or hang up.
#57
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I personally wouldn't use the ebay studs, without more posts of people who have used them and give me some more confidence. However, I will say ARP is NOT perfect. My Camaro has ARP Rod bolts, cam bolts, harmonic bolt, head bolts and I had no issues, I'm even using the same ARP stuff on my LSX Foxbody build.
About two months ago a buddy of mine built a 383 LT1 and used all ARP fasteners, first we got the head studs and whoever machined them, had machined both ends as Fine thread rather than fine thread/Coarse Thread...Called ARP and they argued with him til he said he wouldn't ever buy another product from em and then they sent new studs. We got to install the rotating assembly, they sent us studs that were too short to run a windage tray, which they claimed would work without issue, not a huge deal so I machined some spacers for the windage tray. Get the motor in and it runs good til we find a vacuum leak, so we fix that and start up again...buddy revs the engine to 4k and throws a rod through the block......We pulled the oil pan off and two of the rod bolt nuts had no threads in em...the bolts wiped out the threads. The builder followed the installation instructions exactly. This had to be an ARP failure...we have tried calling them weekly for the two months now and after we give names and ask for someone high up they either ignore the call or hang up.
About two months ago a buddy of mine built a 383 LT1 and used all ARP fasteners, first we got the head studs and whoever machined them, had machined both ends as Fine thread rather than fine thread/Coarse Thread...Called ARP and they argued with him til he said he wouldn't ever buy another product from em and then they sent new studs. We got to install the rotating assembly, they sent us studs that were too short to run a windage tray, which they claimed would work without issue, not a huge deal so I machined some spacers for the windage tray. Get the motor in and it runs good til we find a vacuum leak, so we fix that and start up again...buddy revs the engine to 4k and throws a rod through the block......We pulled the oil pan off and two of the rod bolt nuts had no threads in em...the bolts wiped out the threads. The builder followed the installation instructions exactly. This had to be an ARP failure...we have tried calling them weekly for the two months now and after we give names and ask for someone high up they either ignore the call or hang up.
#59
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I picked up some ebay studs an installed the everything looks fine.Any kind of stud is better than a torque to yeild bolt, most guys on here like myself are building big horsepower junk yard turbo motors so who cares if something breaks.Main studs and rod bolts i would probably be a good idea to use arps but who's to say. But head studs are a different story there are no tight clearances. Its all up to what you want to build. I seen cheap stuff break and high end stuff break. Just when the high end stuff breaks your wallet takes a serious beating. And really what company warranties their stuff as soon as its used for racing the warranty is over.
#60
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I picked up some ebay studs an installed the everything looks fine.Any kind of stud is better than a torque to yeild bolt, most guys on here like myself are building big horsepower junk yard turbo motors so who cares if something breaks.Main studs and rod bolts i would probably be a good idea to use arps but who's to say. But head studs are a different story there are no tight clearances. Its all up to what you want to build. I seen cheap stuff break and high end stuff break. Just when the high end stuff breaks your wallet takes a serious beating. And really what company warranties their stuff as soon as its used for racing the warranty is over.
but yea. cheap stuff and hi end stuff, it all breaks. even oe stuff breaks. noway around it.