PLEASE HELP!!! Oil pressure way too low after 2 rebuilds
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I had my ls1 rebuilt a while back and it was reading lower oil pressure than i would have liked it to.(Probably around 25lbs. cold and at a low idle it dropped into the red) The machinist said it would be fine. Well less than a year later the cam bearings went out. I took it back to the machinist had it rebuilt again and as soon as i got it back together it was reading even LESS oil pressure than the first time and I upgraded to a Melling high volume pump! My machinist has never touch a modern ls block before is there any kind of error that could be made on these to cause this issue?
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Loose bearing clearance would be my first guess, but it's hard to say for sure without inspecting the assembly.
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Sorry, should have pointed that out.. He checked clearance and we're good there...
However I have heard from a few people in my area that he may not have installed the cam bearings properly.. Do they take some special talent to install? haha because I can't afford to tear it apart a 3rd time..
However I have heard from a few people in my area that he may not have installed the cam bearings properly.. Do they take some special talent to install? haha because I can't afford to tear it apart a 3rd time..
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What is/was the main and rod bearing clearance?
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I'm gonna take a guess and say that he installed the oil pump o-ring incorrectly.
On the pickup tube, where the pickup tube meets the oil pump, there is a flange. The o-ring should be sitting ON TOP of the flange, not below the flange. If the o-ring is mounted below that metal flange, the pickup will not seal completely.
Did the rebuilder install the pickup tube? If so, ask if he remembers how the ring was mounted.
Otherwise, you might do the investigation yourself, by pulling the balancer, timing cover, then lowering the pan. From here, remove the four oilpump bolts, then remove the pump.
If the cam bearings were installed incorrectly, I would think that oil pressure would either not be affected, or oil pressure could be higher than normal.
On the pickup tube, where the pickup tube meets the oil pump, there is a flange. The o-ring should be sitting ON TOP of the flange, not below the flange. If the o-ring is mounted below that metal flange, the pickup will not seal completely.
Did the rebuilder install the pickup tube? If so, ask if he remembers how the ring was mounted.
Otherwise, you might do the investigation yourself, by pulling the balancer, timing cover, then lowering the pan. From here, remove the four oilpump bolts, then remove the pump.
If the cam bearings were installed incorrectly, I would think that oil pressure would either not be affected, or oil pressure could be higher than normal.
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SVT-No everything is brand new oil pump pu tube and such...
Matt-I have no idea what the clearance is..
Powell-The machinist also checked that and it's in there..
On another note.. he also checked the o-ring and it's good too
Matt-I have no idea what the clearance is..
Powell-The machinist also checked that and it's in there..
On another note.. he also checked the o-ring and it's good too
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there 4 oil galley plugs?
1) Semi-permanent plug about 2" to the right of the oil pump under front cover.
2) Plastic "dogbone" style plug under rear cover
3) M16 plug on front drivers side of block behind alternator
4) M16 plug on rear drivers side of block above oil filter
The last two would be very noticeable though. Lol.
1) Semi-permanent plug about 2" to the right of the oil pump under front cover.
2) Plastic "dogbone" style plug under rear cover
3) M16 plug on front drivers side of block behind alternator
4) M16 plug on rear drivers side of block above oil filter
The last two would be very noticeable though. Lol.
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The motor is out of the car right now anyways..
He's going to strip down to a bare block once again and start over..
The reason i'm freaking out is because he told me today that if we get it put back together and the problem persists it's my problem and he's washing his hands of it..
He's going to strip down to a bare block once again and start over..
The reason i'm freaking out is because he told me today that if we get it put back together and the problem persists it's my problem and he's washing his hands of it..
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Tell me about it.. haha.. It's been almost 2 yrs since i've raced it. I'm itchy..
Anyways I'm still leaning towards cam bearings.. That's what my intelligent friend from SHO-ME Speed says..
Anyways I'm still leaning towards cam bearings.. That's what my intelligent friend from SHO-ME Speed says..
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.0027" on the mains of an aluminum block will have crappy pressure at full operating temp for sure...likely cold/cool as well! Remember the clearances expands/grows more on the aluminum blocks than it does on iron, so most builders old them to a tighter tolerance to ensure good pressure.
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For an NA aluminum street build you'd like them closer to .0020" on the mains (There are other variables to this of course).
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there 4 oil galley plugs?
1) Semi-permanent plug about 2" to the right of the oil pump under front cover.
2) Plastic "dogbone" style plug under rear cover
3) M16 plug on front drivers side of block behind alternator
4) M16 plug on rear drivers side of block above oil filter
The last two would be very noticeable though. Lol.
1) Semi-permanent plug about 2" to the right of the oil pump under front cover.
2) Plastic "dogbone" style plug under rear cover
3) M16 plug on front drivers side of block behind alternator
4) M16 plug on rear drivers side of block above oil filter
The last two would be very noticeable though. Lol.
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Is it possible to install the 2003 or 4 style cam bearings into an older block or vice/versa??
I don't machine LS blocks, but I'd research the OD of the old vs new cam bearings to cross off the sht list