Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Fair enough. I don't think it'll cause any harm

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

You can certainly find thread chasers for less on The World Wide Web.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

These things are tough to find. Pace Performance is the cheapest, but they are "special order",

Your going to have to bite the bullet on this one.

BrokeRacing98ta

Buy the tool, I snapped an ARP head bolt and it was nowhere near the bottom. I had blown all the fluids out with air before beginning so i know it wasn't hydrolocked. After paying my machinist to get the broken bolt out of the engine I ended up buying the tap from ARP. I could not beleive all the white crap that came out of all the threads. Not sure what it was but it was well worth the money to buy the tap.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I never realized that the 11mm x 2.00 thread was such an odd size.

Other than the very expensive ARP taps, there are no taps or thread chasers to be found. There's not even standard bolts to be found in that size.

ARP must think they have a lock on this BUT WAIT!

I just found this on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSG-M11-X-2-...-/350436521593

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Added to my watch list. TY sir!

703 CAMAROSS

I'm going to try to find one locally, if I can't, I'm going to try spraying the holes with brake clean then hit it with some air.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I bet it's too short. And its a TAP!! buyer beware....

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

There should be no problem running a tap instead of a chase through a thread. It'll be even cleaner.

I have a SAE chaser set and was never totally satisfied with how "clean" it made the thread I used it in. If I need to clean a thread, I'd reach for a tap first.

If you look carefully at what ARP sells as a "chase" you'll see it's really a bottoming tap.

Here's what a true thread chase looks like:

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

There's always this solution which will save you money & time:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...d-chasers.html

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I'm no expert here, but ARP sells the tool as a thread cleaner. The true difference between a "cleaner" and a "tap" is beyond me, but I wouldnt throw the dice on my very expensive engine to save $20.

The cutting bolt method works for some, but not as effective as the tool. Also again, if you dont know what youre doing, you may create sharp edges on the bolt and dic up the threads....

Again, I would buy the tools, and re-sell them.

joecar

Note that you don't want a "tap"... you want specifically a thread "chaser" or "cleaner".


tap: cuts thread (removes metal from host)

chaser: follows existing threads (straightening bent threads as it goes)(does not cut)

cleaner: follows existing threads (cleaning junk out as it goes)(does not cut)


chaser and cleaner may be the same, and they do not cut or otherwise remove metal.


Modified bolt would clean out junk, but may damage existing threads.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Well, I personally have rebuilt tools for down-hole drilling applications that I've hydro-tested at 9500#. All we ever used in the shop was taps to clean the threads. If you thread it by hand from the start it should make NO difference. If you can't feel the difference between "cleaning" a thread and "cutting" a thread, there's problems to begin with.

That being said, when the time comes, I'm either going to buy a set of the ARP chasers from someone on here, or rent them from someone and send them back.

joecar

A thread chaser/cleaner straightens existing threads that are deformed... a tap will attempt to cut a new thread thru these.

With steel you can get away with using a tap as a thread cleaner... but aluminum is very soft and is very easy to remove material from (even driving the tap by hand).

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

If you have threads that are deformed, you have bigger problems than a thread "cleaner" will address-especially when working with an aluminum block.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

The "thread chaser/cleaner" that ARP markets is a tap, not a true chase as known to the machinery/tool & die world.

I'll guaranty you can use a ARP thread chaser to cut fresh threads into a blank hole. Try that with a proper thread chaser.

joecar

I didn't mean majorly deformed... I simply meant more like a few nicks on the crests of the threads.


(if the threads are majorly deformed you drill them out and install a Time-Sert... you wouldn't need a chaser/cleaner).

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

If I'm reading the specs right, the "H6" fitment class shows to be 0.006+ oversize, so this will definitely be cutting new threads. Unless one were to have access to a bit grinder to remove the added diameter. Paul, can you read the fit class on the ARP chasers? Would be curious to see what it is...

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Good call Russ.

I don't own any of the ARP tools. Maybe if anybody here does, he can see if they have the fitment size on them and post it up.

703 CAMAROSS

It's not am aluminum block, its a built lq4, bored and stroked to a 390ci.