How can you say the LS1 over the LT1 when..
05-30-2012, 07:28 PM
#61
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The LM7 or truckster motor is rated at 285hp,,,,,,335lb./ft. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the LT1 at 300hp,,,,,,330lb./ft. ,,,,,,,,but wait a sec ,,,,,,,,,the LM7 is only 325 cu/in ?????????????????? and it was'nt made for "racing" like the LT1 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,let me tell You somethin You may not understand ,,,,,,,,,ALL Chevy small blocks were intended for Racing !
05-30-2012, 07:45 PM
#63
Not be rude or downgrade LS1 owners but the lt1 has more low end power and no matter what you can't gain that only original stock form can have that. So the LT1 can grow in the high end and will stay great in the low end (im talking about the rpms) and then it will go higher in rpms with mods and have great low end the LS1 can only have high end power. Not to mention the LS1 is very weak when it comes to strength. The LT1 has a lot of strength. and is a better bargain.
but i will admit the LS1 is a decent motor.
but i will admit the LS1 is a decent motor.
05-30-2012, 07:46 PM
#64
Its not why I think that its a fact.
I ran back to back 4 times 8 passes total with a 1/2 hr cool down and an ice bag on the manifold.
All runs off idle with 275/40/17 DR's my 60's were all 1.97-2.01
First run w/no button second with it.
Third run button,fourth no button.
Fifth/Sixth ect
I looked at the time slips when all was said and done the runs without the button were better.
My theory is the stock heads and cam were unable to take advantage of the extra RPM between shifts.
Try it yourself.
I ran back to back 4 times 8 passes total with a 1/2 hr cool down and an ice bag on the manifold.
All runs off idle with 275/40/17 DR's my 60's were all 1.97-2.01
First run w/no button second with it.
Third run button,fourth no button.
Fifth/Sixth ect
I looked at the time slips when all was said and done the runs without the button were better.
My theory is the stock heads and cam were unable to take advantage of the extra RPM between shifts.
Try it yourself.
05-30-2012, 08:12 PM
#66
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Its not why I think that its a fact.
I ran back to back 4 times 8 passes total with a 1/2 hr cool down and an ice bag on the manifold.
All runs off idle with 275/40/17 DR's my 60's were all 1.97-2.01
First run w/no button second with it.
Third run button,fourth no button.
Fifth/Sixth ect
I looked at the time slips when all was said and done the runs without the button were better.
My theory is the stock heads and cam were unable to take advantage of the extra RPM between shifts.
Try it yourself.
I ran back to back 4 times 8 passes total with a 1/2 hr cool down and an ice bag on the manifold.
All runs off idle with 275/40/17 DR's my 60's were all 1.97-2.01
First run w/no button second with it.
Third run button,fourth no button.
Fifth/Sixth ect
I looked at the time slips when all was said and done the runs without the button were better.
My theory is the stock heads and cam were unable to take advantage of the extra RPM between shifts.
Try it yourself.
I've noticed with my button on it likes to hold redline and then shift. i've only had the car a few months so still don't fully understand what it does all i know is if i try cruising with it on it will rev all the way up to 4k then throw u back in your seat with out even trying and it's just computer controlled so i know it's nothing special but you got any more info on what it exactly does? it seems to rev higher than normal also?
05-30-2012, 09:14 PM
#73
I must feed the troy.what are the dyno numbers of a stock hi out put lt1 with a stock gm cam ?a ls1 has a longer stroke ,and better flowing heads.what are the dyno numbers of a ls6 ?
05-30-2012, 10:08 PM
#75
I just read through this entire post and I found it hilarious! You guys are arguing with someone who pushes a button and makes his car faster, therefore allowing him to beat everyone! This is the same guy that asked if he can use a drill to bore his Engine out in another thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oke-motor.html
05-30-2012, 10:10 PM
#77
First off i know what they are. Bore is the area the piston will fit in and stroke is the distance it travels. So im not stupid i know my stuff.
Here's the questions i'm gonna ask, (i know this does not exactly pertain to the LS1 bored but it's the busiest and i know you guys are smart)
1. Will i need to get new pistons with a bore'd cylinder wall?
2. Is it in the best interest of the motor to bore and stroke, or is just boring it fine?
3. Can i do it myself? What do machine shops do to bore the motors? Does it have to be precise, OR CAN I DRILL?
Here's the questions i'm gonna ask, (i know this does not exactly pertain to the LS1 bored but it's the busiest and i know you guys are smart)
1. Will i need to get new pistons with a bore'd cylinder wall?
2. Is it in the best interest of the motor to bore and stroke, or is just boring it fine?
3. Can i do it myself? What do machine shops do to bore the motors? Does it have to be precise, OR CAN I DRILL?
05-30-2012, 10:22 PM
#79
I just read through this entire post and I found it hilarious! You guys are arguing with someone who pushes a button and makes his car faster, therefore allowing him to beat everyone! This is the same guy that asked if he can use a drill to bore his Engine out in another thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oke-motor.html
