first fill up
I personally don't use full synthetic at initial start up. I use a petroleum base for start up, then go synthetic after you've drove it a little while. My engine builder says the synthetic stuff is "too slick" to allow parts to mate. Just another opinion.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
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I dont use gibbs. I use a 15w-40 conventional and a lucas break in additive. Jelps everything get together and helps break in all the valve train better. I only run the 15w-40 on a stroker. I would use 10w30 conventional with a lucas addittive . Much cheaper than gibbs.
If it was built with stock bearing clearances, use regular 10-w30 oil. If not, then use whatever weight the builder recommends. Don't use synthetic....you need a little bit of friction to seat the rings and it'd be a waste since you're gonna be changing the oil right after first start up anyways.
Start it up and get it up to operating temps. Change oil after that if you wish....or move on to breaking in the rings and change oil after that. After it's up to operating temps, bring her close to redline for about 5-8 seconds (say 5,500) about 3 times. Then go ahead and change the oil.
If it's already tuned for the setup, go ahead and drive it and give it hell. Don't worry about driving easy and get it up to redline with a load as much as you can. Stay away from idling too much and steady state cruising for the first couple hundred miles. I'd change oil again after 150 miles or so.
If it's not tuned, try not to start it or run it until it gets a tuned or is getting tuned. Idling and babying the engine will cause the rings to break in "slow" and won't seat well, and before you know it the roughness of the hone job is gone and the rings will never seat completely.
Start it up and get it up to operating temps. Change oil after that if you wish....or move on to breaking in the rings and change oil after that. After it's up to operating temps, bring her close to redline for about 5-8 seconds (say 5,500) about 3 times. Then go ahead and change the oil.
If it's already tuned for the setup, go ahead and drive it and give it hell. Don't worry about driving easy and get it up to redline with a load as much as you can. Stay away from idling too much and steady state cruising for the first couple hundred miles. I'd change oil again after 150 miles or so.
If it's not tuned, try not to start it or run it until it gets a tuned or is getting tuned. Idling and babying the engine will cause the rings to break in "slow" and won't seat well, and before you know it the roughness of the hone job is gone and the rings will never seat completely.
TECH Fanatic
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Also Once the motor is started and broke in change it immediatly. Use same stuff go 500 miles change same stuff go 1500 change with same stuff go another 1500 then change to synthetic. Thats how we break in the motors we build. You first few thousand miles is critical with how the motor will be in the long run. You can still run it hard just change the oil like stated good luck. What motor do you have in the car again you told me a month ago but forgot.
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From: BFE
The rings will seat in the first 20 min of operation. Use regular 10w40 for first 500 miles. Drive it at different loads (sometimes like you stole it). Change oil (still conventional) for another 1500 and then you can go synth.
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
The car needs a tune before it runs and will still be on the stand for awhile I just want to get oil in it and primed I'm gonna be putting it up and in hopefully this weekend.
