operation go fast and go broke
05-02-2013, 07:32 AM
#42
Staging Lane
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at this point it might have to sit for the summer and i will drive my 2010 SS on nice days i guess... i am gonna save up for a 408 and forged internals and go for real power. Hopefully it will be up and running for next spring
05-04-2013, 05:02 PM
#43
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For everyone that has gone 408 block, how much will it cost me to build a 408 with forged internals with about 600-650 hp and thats with having a shop do the work and tune? is it better to just buy a stock crate LS3? My budget will be accumilating somewhat fast and I should have enough money by the end of the summer to build what i want, any advice would be awesome!!
05-04-2013, 05:34 PM
#44
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Why did your valve drop exactly, I am about to start my build just want to try to avoid the same problem if possible. Seems like if you bought preassembled heads like the PRC 215s everything should have been good to go, not sure about PTV clearances on that combo and what the heads were milled at.
05-04-2013, 08:09 PM
#45
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The car was put together last summer and all seemed fine except what seemed like a small lifter tick so i brought the car to a performance shop (I am not going to mention the name) and i ended up paying them $2800n to go thru the valvetrain. they put new lifters in (i had new LS7 lifters but the shop thought they might be problem) and new rocker arms and they shaved the heads i am not sure what the pistion to valve clearace was. When they were all done it seemed to run fine but 100 miles later the issue came about and tore apart my motor. neither the place i bought the heads from or the place where the work was done want to take the blame so well i am stuck with a car with no motor... my plan is to build a 408 monster but i am going to have to save for a little while as i already dumped too much money in this car as you can see from my sig.. all this was done within 6 months so my bank account took a hard hit
05-05-2013, 06:07 AM
#46
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sorry for your troubles man, you really got screwed by that shop.
Not to sound like an ***, but let this be a lesson to do the work yourself next time. I wouldn't trust a shop to tie my shoes, much less assemble an engine.
You have a vast library of knowledge on here and plenty that are willing to help with your 408. Good luck man, keep us posted.
Not to sound like an ***, but let this be a lesson to do the work yourself next time. I wouldn't trust a shop to tie my shoes, much less assemble an engine.
You have a vast library of knowledge on here and plenty that are willing to help with your 408. Good luck man, keep us posted.
05-05-2013, 10:24 AM
#49
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well the shop i brought it to claims the valve seat let loose causing the valve to drop, the heads were pre assembled so they wouldn't have had to touch the valves so i guess it may not be their fault, also if a rod bearing was getting worn that would have given the piston that much more movement and then could have kissed the valve and then caused this damage, I don't want to trash talk a shop until I am 100% sure of what caused this...either way i am out a ton of money and now i have to build a 408
05-05-2013, 01:26 PM
#52
Man sounds like you wasted $2800....Your lifter tick might have just been the dreaded sewing machine sound or an exhaust leak. That sucks! If you did all the assembly, why did you take it to a shop to mess with it? Can you even mill heads with the valve train installed?
05-05-2013, 08:40 PM
#55
It shouldn't hydrolock unless your injectors are leaking with the key off?!?! This is what I think happened to me. It ran fine with the stock injectors. I took it to the tuner, swapped in my 42lb ones, ran it for a bit and then it hydrolocked. I figured the injectors were bad??
05-09-2013, 05:11 AM
#59
On The Tree
05-09-2013, 07:14 AM
#60