EDIT: FINALY GOT IT! (stripped my fuc****crank threads all the way) installing pulley
08-20-2012, 11:44 PM
#41
yes....
Orileys, Autozone.....
and they rent a huge selection of tools...
though.. its more like a loaner with a refundable deposit...
and once in a while, the tool was messed up by somebody else, so you just go back and show them and they pull a new one off the shelf for you
Orileys, Autozone.....
and they rent a huge selection of tools...
though.. its more like a loaner with a refundable deposit...
and once in a while, the tool was messed up by somebody else, so you just go back and show them and they pull a new one off the shelf for you
08-21-2012, 04:46 AM
#43
Another person bit by "LS1howto.com". That site is responsible for more damaged crank shafts and yet it is still followed.
Don't install with a bolt, longer or otherwise. Either buy the correct tool or make one, it is not hard and can be done for less than $20. This is a press fit.
Also, if you are following that web site, the final values for torque are wrong as well. There is no torque, it is a prescribed rotation of the bolt to ensure the stretch is correct.
Don't install with a bolt, longer or otherwise. Either buy the correct tool or make one, it is not hard and can be done for less than $20. This is a press fit.
Also, if you are following that web site, the final values for torque are wrong as well. There is no torque, it is a prescribed rotation of the bolt to ensure the stretch is correct.
08-21-2012, 07:31 AM
#46
Another person bit by "LS1howto.com". That site is responsible for more damaged crank shafts and yet it is still followed.
Don't install with a bolt, longer or otherwise. Either buy the correct tool or make one, it is not hard and can be done for less than $20. This is a press fit.
Also, if you are following that web site, the final values for torque are wrong as well. There is no torque, it is a prescribed rotation of the bolt to ensure the stretch is correct.
Don't install with a bolt, longer or otherwise. Either buy the correct tool or make one, it is not hard and can be done for less than $20. This is a press fit.
Also, if you are following that web site, the final values for torque are wrong as well. There is no torque, it is a prescribed rotation of the bolt to ensure the stretch is correct.
08-21-2012, 07:37 AM
#47
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3173/=iy0j86
99055A239
Get a torrington bearing, a few different size washers, and a nut.
99055A239
Get a torrington bearing, a few different size washers, and a nut.
08-21-2012, 08:25 AM
#48
I know people have been sucessful doing it this way, but MANY..MANY more have stripped or boogered up threads with this method.
If you do a search, there are countless threads on why you shouldnt do it this way.
I would like to respectfully say, you shouldnt pass this on as an effective means to install a damper.
There is a correct way to do this with the proper tool.
If you do a search, there are countless threads on why you shouldnt do it this way.
I would like to respectfully say, you shouldnt pass this on as an effective means to install a damper.
There is a correct way to do this with the proper tool.
I was not aware the tool doesnt pull on the threads at all though, guess next time Ill give it a try.
08-21-2012, 10:06 AM
#49
I have seen alot strip threads using the stock length bolt, I ran it in just out of curiosity and you would be pulling on just a few threads. The ls7 threaded way in, I have yet to see someone pull threads out using a longer then stock bolt. Except for the OP, who admitted he didnt run it in far enough.
I was not aware the tool doesnt pull on the threads at all though, guess next time Ill give it a try.
I was not aware the tool doesnt pull on the threads at all though, guess next time Ill give it a try.
08-21-2012, 10:09 AM
#50
I have seen alot strip threads using the stock length bolt, I ran it in just out of curiosity and you would be pulling on just a few threads. The ls7 threaded way in, I have yet to see someone pull threads out using a longer then stock bolt. Except for the OP, who admitted he didnt run it in far enough.
I was not aware the tool doesnt pull on the threads at all though, guess next time Ill give it a try.
I was not aware the tool doesnt pull on the threads at all though, guess next time Ill give it a try.
08-21-2012, 10:39 AM
#52
There just is no evidence that it hurts anything and its easy as hell if done right. Find me someone who stripped threads using the longer bolt? With the amount of threads you get in there, its not gonna strip.
08-21-2012, 11:12 AM
#54
The reason you don't see evidence is because: a.) you can't see the crank threads to tell whether or not they are damaged and b.) if it does work, chances are you won't be trying it over and over again since crank pulleys are usually a one and done type of deal.
By using a longer bolt, you have to overcome the friction of the threads AND the pulley's interference/press fit. This is a pretty damn good recipe for galled and/or stripped threads. On my old Camaro, I watched a "mechanic" pull my new UD pulley on the crank with a bolt and an impact gun. Years later when I removed it, I pulled it and ran a thread chaser through the crank threads and it came out with all sorts of metal shavings. Thankfully there was enough left to hold the new bolt/pulley, but I made damn sure to use the correct tool to install it from then on.
08-21-2012, 01:04 PM
#56
ANYWAYS. got the new bolt, helicoil kit, install tool and now im looking for 21/32's drill bit and one other thing that worries me is if the cutting bit is going to be long enuf. I am pretty sure its not going to be. So i need like a socket with two square 1/2 ends or something.
08-21-2012, 07:22 PM
#59
ANYWAYS. got the new bolt, helicoil kit, install tool and now im looking for 21/32's drill bit and one other thing that worries me is if the cutting bit is going to be long enuf. I am pretty sure its not going to be. So i need like a socket with two square 1/2 ends or something.