GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

first off, my goal isnt a hp dyno number, i want a low e.t slip. besides the rear end, tranny, and suspension upgrades which i already know are needed, i want to know the hp vs money gains made from a 347 to a 383. is it worth the extra money to go to a 383? This is my setup/plans so far and my goal is low 11's on motor, low 10s on spray. im going with forged pistons and rods. so is the hp/$$ worth going to a stroker while its apart? can i hit that goal with just a 347? i dont worry about "is this streetable"? i wouldnt build it if i didnt think so lol. i have other vehicles to drive.
Its a 2000 SS M6. im not gutting my car. im keeping my AC and power seat etc etc. i went with a torquer v3 112lsa cam already. for heads i looked at tsp's ls6 stage 2.5 or 3 heads (they recommended they will go well with a tv3 cam), maybe TFS 215 or AFR 205's but doubtful on those right now. static compression will be atleast 11 to 11.5 to 1 and intake setup will be a 92/102 setup. already have LT's and true duals. so to go 383 or not ? i figured with the holidays comin up there will be some awesome sales to take advantage of.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

The 383 will make the power you want, as will the 347. The 383 will make better low end torque. The power difference in mid to high will not be a huge difference, but it will be more.

The 383 will also make things more driveable, as it will eat up duration in the cam. Is it worth it? To me, no. Some will agree with me, others won't. If this is the end of your plans for the car, do the 383, if not and you decide later you want to do a larger stroker, save your money and do the 347.

Gunslinger09

The stroker is going to be the ticket for a low et time slip. I agree with BWW though that a larger stroker would be the way to go. Get a LQ block and build a 400+CI stroker.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

Could i use the heads and intake on a lq block if i change later on? So im not wastin money? Sry im use to old school sbc lol.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

I've been running 11.2s and 11.3s @ 120mph with mods below. Full weight Camaro no weight reduction with the AC still hooked up and working.Running 11.5 SCR. on 93 octane pump gas. It might run a 11.1 if I washed it.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

IMHO i would not do the 383, spend the money you would spend on the crank and get some AI dart/rhs heads and run as much compression asyou can.
If you can do E85 get over 12:1 it will run it easy! i run low 11s with the setup in my sig stock LS1 intake and 1.75" headers, 2.5IORY full exhaust without even trying. AC, all the sound deadener, stock trans, tight converter for nitrous
Headers should be 17/8 at least but a 17/8x2" stepped would make the most power

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

are you guys runnin stock rods/pistons? should i atleast upgrade them to forged for alil extra safety with the juice? i would switch to e85 but the closest pump is like 45 mins away .

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

If your cylinders need any kind of work, no reason not to step up to forged. Mahle has a good set for less than 500 I believe that comes with rings and pins. Just make sure to re balance your rotating assembly.

E85 is nice, but it can be a pain. If it is plentiful in your area, and you take it on a road trip, you may not be able to find it.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

The money spent on a stroker crank would be better spent on a ls2 block or lq block and bore it .030 to a 370. With good heads bore seems to do more then stroke for less money and you can do it while still drivin your car until motor is ready to swap.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

If you want to be safe, you dont need forged stuff for the 100 shot it will take at most to reach your goal
BUT, I recommend you take it apart, and do some ARP rod bolts. Get the rods resized and put it back together. should only take your machine shop about 4 hours to do the whole job and you can safely spin it to 7000. If you want to go forged, go ahead
I was running a 100% stock shortblock. I still recommend the Ai dart/RHS heads though with a .040 gasket. Take them down to 60cc or so. If you think you need a little more have mamo port your fast.
If your car is setup anything decent that setup should go 11.0 no problem, wouldnt be suprised if it went into the 10s on motor with a great 60'

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I would spend the money on the best heads for your combo you can possibly get instead of a 383 kit.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

i dont think my cylinders need any work. it just passed 83k, i just want it to run better. ill find out when i take it apart for sure. so i def stickin with the 347. that will free up money for other things.

garygnu

I say do the 383 if you are reusing your current block.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

yea im using my current motor.

Fosnot

iTrader: (15)

Which... correct me if I'm wrong, but you could re use the 4" stroke crank in a 6.0 block and just swap the pistons out to the correct size... right?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Correct, but everything has to be rebalanced. Which is just an added cost.

Troy5061

iTrader: (19)

Worth it or not is all a matter of opinion. The big difference with the 383 vs a 347 will be better driveability because of the increased low end torque, peak hp numbers usually aren't much differerent from 347ci engines. I like my 383 and granted mine is a stalled auto but it has run a best of 7.26 @ 94 in the 1/8th mile with a stock ls6 intake and tb and 243 heads. Im planning on putting some AFR 225s and a FAST 92 on and see what happens, with any luck it will run a 6.9x second 1/8th mile on the motor. At the end of the day you have to decide what will make you happy, I wish I would have gone with either a turbo or supercharged 347ci setup but whats done is done lol.