Ok I'm ready to install the covers and button up the bottom end of my lq4. Can anyone tell me the proper way to install everything so I dont get any leaks? Also I want to replace the rear main and oil barbell while its apart. Any do's and don'ts?

thank you for the advice
I searched, googled and found many opinions but nothing concrete

Matt

 

Never replaced the barbell..never had a need.

This is how I do it:

Install all covers snug, dab of rtv in each corner, oil pan on snug.
Tighten Oil Pan from center zigzagging out, tighten covers zigzagging up and down(skipping a bolt up and hitting that one on the way down).

Never had a leak.

 

Ok sounds easy enough. Any advice on the rear main?

 

I use a 2x4 and a hammer, get it flush, then use a large socket to seat it fully, gently tapping it.

 

Always get your front & rear covers torqued down, before replacing the oilpan. When tightening the bolts on either cover, simply snug them first, all around, then snug them once again, before torqueing.
This keeps your front and rear seal centered, and keeps the seals from being distorted. I didn't bother with the rear seal centering disc. When placing rear cover with installed seal over the crank, I gently supported the cover from underneath, with a finger, while gently snugging the bolts on the rear cover. (then torque to spec)
When replacing the rear seal, make sure you have the inside & outside correctly oriented. The new seals have very fine embossed rubber letters (inside/outside), which can only be read either in direct sunlight, or by shinging a flashlight sideways across the letters.
When installing the rear seal, check that the seal is installed ALL THE WAY IN...not just flush with the rear cover.
My engine had sat, unused, for 8 years. Even though the barbell, in theory, sat undisturbed, I believe that the o-ring on the barbell contracted, allowing the barbell to partially slide out, ruining the engine.
So, as long as you are already 'in there', replace the barbell.
Like the merv, I have had zero leaks.

 

I have the new barbell so I might as well change it out. I'm waiting on my cam to show up before I put everything together. I'm not sure what oil pump to use
stock ls6
Melling 10296
Or I can buy a
Melling 10295

 

To center the front and rear seals on the crank, while the front/rear cover bolts are finger tight rotate the crank a few times; then tighten the bolts.

Then apply RTV to the where the front/rear covers meet the pan rail.

Then install the pan bolts finger tight, leave the long bolts loose, align the rear of the pan with the rear of the block (bell housing rail), then tighten the bolts, tighten the long bolts last (do not overtighten those).

 

If go ls6 or melling 295...as far as the pan alignment I always make witness marks by tracing both sides of the timing cover that way I got something to go by as a reference when re installing, not sure if you already disassembled everything...

 

Kent Moore Tools and a dab of rvt here and there. Only way to go and guarantee no warranty leaks

 

As joecar referred to them, be careful about tightening those two long bolts at the rear of the pan. You can get caught up in the tightening sequence of the pan bolts, and then forget that the long bolts are INCH pounds, not FOOT.

 

I just pulled the pan off my 4.8 and now I know why i had a drip
When we put the pan on last time i guess we should have followed directions. I have cracked pan now. FTL!!

 

the way i align the front cover is to obviously put it on and install 4 bolts to the front cover, but not all the way. i then put on the harmonic balancer to center the front cover. then tighten down the timing cover according to sequence.

 

As joecar referred to them, be careful about tightening those two long bolts at the rear of the pan.

 

Kent Moore tools are the only way to do it right....

but, you can get away with the poor mans method.
put the covers on loosely, spin the crank to center it, then tighten from the bolts closest to the crank outwards...
after both covers are on, install oil pan, save rear two for last and only snug them by hand to just barely snug, they dont need much tension to make the seal, and you will break them really easily if you snug too hard.

 

GREAT, this is just what I needed!

 

Bump for dumb question; If the engine is on a stand, you can't easily (or at all) install a rear cover. So what's the typical solution? Let the engine hang from a hoist while installing the front and rear covers and then put the engine back on the stand to install the oil pan?

Tipsy

 

yeah..usually you have to either move the stand to the front or find an alternative way to hold the engine so you can put the rear cover on...

 

For both front and rear cover, I use a straight edge to make sure they are installed flat with the oil pan rail. For the front, I use an old balancer that I honed out to center the front cover.

 

And make sure your oil pan is flush with the back of the block when you tighten it down. Otherwise your bell housing could crack your pan (if pan is sticking out past block in back)when installed.

 

I like it! I do the same. Love the honed balancer hub truck. I actually cut the balancer away from the hub even.
Ron