430+rwhp? stock bottom end? come in please
you should have alot of fun..
11-17-2012, 12:03 PM
#87
Hone it, and replace the rings. A good finish helps to ensure proper break in. Doesnt remove much to just get a good finish on the cylinders either.
Correct assembly, a good tune, and proper maintenance will help keep her alive for a LONG time to come. Remember, especially with a cam that big, valve springs become a maintenance item as well.
The stock rotating assembly will be just fine for you. Since its going to be apart anyway, Id have the rod bolts replaced and resized just to be safe. May be more for piece of mind, but why not do it to prevent the chance of distortion taking out a bearing or two.
IIRC, Chris1313 is making OVER 500rwhp through an auto with his stock shortblock. There are also plenty of guys spraying well over 200 shots on almost completely stock bottom ends. Where people run into problems with nitrous (and i believe boost) is the ring gap being too small. the rings butt up against each other when they expand from the added heat, and when there is no where else to go, the piston looses the fight.
Im currently getting ready to assemble a new (refreshed LS1) going in to our 2000 WS.6. It currently makes 411/392 on 91 octane and a EPS 227/230 cam.Theres NOTHING wrong with this engine at all and Im sure it would live a long, happy life as is, but long story short, Im building a new engine. Heres what Im doing:
Refreshed LS1, stock rotating assembly (03+ coated skirt pistons)
Clevite Main/Rod bearings with polished crank journals
Durabond Cam Bearings
New Moly Rings/Hone
AFR 205s/Cometic .040 Gaskets/ARP Head studs
EPS 227/230 .613/.608 113+1
It also has an LS6 intake, long tubes, some other parts and somewhere down the road, it may even see 150-200 shot.
Correct assembly, a good tune, and proper maintenance will help keep her alive for a LONG time to come. Remember, especially with a cam that big, valve springs become a maintenance item as well.
The stock rotating assembly will be just fine for you. Since its going to be apart anyway, Id have the rod bolts replaced and resized just to be safe. May be more for piece of mind, but why not do it to prevent the chance of distortion taking out a bearing or two.
IIRC, Chris1313 is making OVER 500rwhp through an auto with his stock shortblock. There are also plenty of guys spraying well over 200 shots on almost completely stock bottom ends. Where people run into problems with nitrous (and i believe boost) is the ring gap being too small. the rings butt up against each other when they expand from the added heat, and when there is no where else to go, the piston looses the fight.
Im currently getting ready to assemble a new (refreshed LS1) going in to our 2000 WS.6. It currently makes 411/392 on 91 octane and a EPS 227/230 cam.Theres NOTHING wrong with this engine at all and Im sure it would live a long, happy life as is, but long story short, Im building a new engine. Heres what Im doing:
Refreshed LS1, stock rotating assembly (03+ coated skirt pistons)
Clevite Main/Rod bearings with polished crank journals
Durabond Cam Bearings
New Moly Rings/Hone
AFR 205s/Cometic .040 Gaskets/ARP Head studs
EPS 227/230 .613/.608 113+1
It also has an LS6 intake, long tubes, some other parts and somewhere down the road, it may even see 150-200 shot.
11-17-2012, 02:05 PM
#88
Hone it, and replace the rings. A good finish helps to ensure proper break in. Doesnt remove much to just get a good finish on the cylinders either.
Correct assembly, a good tune, and proper maintenance will help keep her alive for a LONG time to come. Remember, especially with a cam that big, valve springs become a maintenance item as well.
The stock rotating assembly will be just fine for you. Since its going to be apart anyway, Id have the rod bolts replaced and resized just to be safe. May be more for piece of mind, but why not do it to prevent the chance of distortion taking out a bearing or two.
IIRC, Chris1313 is making OVER 500rwhp through an auto with his stock shortblock. There are also plenty of guys spraying well over 200 shots on almost completely stock bottom ends. Where people run into problems with nitrous (and i believe boost) is the ring gap being too small. the rings butt up against each other when they expand from the added heat, and when there is no where else to go, the piston looses the fight.
Im currently getting ready to assemble a new (refreshed LS1) going in to our 2000 WS.6. It currently makes 411/392 on 91 octane and a EPS 227/230 cam.Theres NOTHING wrong with this engine at all and Im sure it would live a long, happy life as is, but long story short, Im building a new engine. Heres what Im doing:
Refreshed LS1, stock rotating assembly (03+ coated skirt pistons)
Clevite Main/Rod bearings with polished crank journals
Durabond Cam Bearings
New Moly Rings/Hone
AFR 205s/Cometic .040 Gaskets/ARP Head studs
EPS 227/230 .613/.608 113+1
It also has an LS6 intake, long tubes, some other parts and somewhere down the road, it may even see 150-200 shot.
Correct assembly, a good tune, and proper maintenance will help keep her alive for a LONG time to come. Remember, especially with a cam that big, valve springs become a maintenance item as well.
The stock rotating assembly will be just fine for you. Since its going to be apart anyway, Id have the rod bolts replaced and resized just to be safe. May be more for piece of mind, but why not do it to prevent the chance of distortion taking out a bearing or two.
IIRC, Chris1313 is making OVER 500rwhp through an auto with his stock shortblock. There are also plenty of guys spraying well over 200 shots on almost completely stock bottom ends. Where people run into problems with nitrous (and i believe boost) is the ring gap being too small. the rings butt up against each other when they expand from the added heat, and when there is no where else to go, the piston looses the fight.
Im currently getting ready to assemble a new (refreshed LS1) going in to our 2000 WS.6. It currently makes 411/392 on 91 octane and a EPS 227/230 cam.Theres NOTHING wrong with this engine at all and Im sure it would live a long, happy life as is, but long story short, Im building a new engine. Heres what Im doing:
Refreshed LS1, stock rotating assembly (03+ coated skirt pistons)
Clevite Main/Rod bearings with polished crank journals
Durabond Cam Bearings
New Moly Rings/Hone
AFR 205s/Cometic .040 Gaskets/ARP Head studs
EPS 227/230 .613/.608 113+1
It also has an LS6 intake, long tubes, some other parts and somewhere down the road, it may even see 150-200 shot.
Thanks again man.
01-10-2013, 02:48 PM
#89
My rod bearings let go after reinstalling the Dart heads because I had to resleeve the crap Dart valve guides after one year of driving it sucking 1 qt every 1000 miles immediately after installing the Dart heads. I believe it let go on the 2nd or 3rd dyno tune pull. It made 420-430rwhp. Engine had about 50k on it.
01-12-2013, 08:05 PM
#93
tell your friends to go look in the forced induction section of this forum. there plenty of guys making 6 7 and 800 hp on stock bottom ends. i think your h/c/i ls1 will be fine. no offense, but uti and schools like that are a waste of money. a couple years in a shop as an apprentice or a helper and you will have just as much or more real world knowledge and you get paid to learn. just my .02
01-13-2013, 05:03 AM
#94
Hp isn't the issue with stock bottom ended stuff.. Rpm becomes a player in the all motor game..if your not willing to zing the snot outta your motor.. Your gonna be sorry... Nothing like the sound of a 7k + rpm sbc! Forced indux cars make tons of power below or just above. 6k...
01-14-2013, 01:51 PM
#95
My car made 447 rwhp with a 100% stock bottom end, stock casting 241 heads, Ms4, victor JR, 1,600 cfm TB, 1-3/4 long tubes and a speed density tune set on kill. Lasted about 2,000 miles after a tune and spun a rod bearing. Was drove hard and put away wet though. Constant 7,000 + RPM passes with stock rod bolts.
01-14-2013, 04:26 PM
#96
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The MAJOR MAJOR factor in any engine surviving IMO is the TUNE! Good assembly tolerence, everything clean. Quality parts, and a wideband O2 guage inside the car. If it goes LEAN, U LIFT! thats what i wlll do. Just My .02.
