*NEW* Mamofied Build Pics Added + idle vid
11-18-2012, 01:09 PM
#1
*NEW* Mamofied Build Pics Added + idle vid I put a thread in the dyno results section with the curves for this build here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ed-1le-ss.html
My Build (Operation OVERKILL):
2002 1LE SS Camaro 28k miles
Mamofied AFR 215cc Heads
-ported 2.055/1.60 valves w/ 8019 springs
Mamofied FAST 102 w/ NW 102 TB
TSP 102mm MAF, FTP 104mm lid
YT Ultralights
Manton 11/32 hardened pushrods
Johnson 2216 leak-matched short-travel linkbar lifters w/ axle oiling
Comp 227/231 .613/.617 114+1
Rollmaster Adjustable Timing Set
C5R chain
SLP 1 3/4" Long Tubes ("new" style)
Hi Flow Cats
QTP 3" E-cutout
SLP 25% UDP
Racetronix 255lph pump w/ hotwire
FIC 36lb flow-matched skinny injectors
Reactor Aluminum Flexplate
Circle D 36-3800 single-clutch billet converter
RPM Level 7 Tranny
MWC Fab 9" 3.70:1
31sp big pinion aluminum center
MWC Watts link, Aluminum LCAs, long TA
UMI RR K member
UMI Chromoly adjustable upper A-arms
UMI Boxed RR adjustable lower A-arms
Wilwood FNSL6 6 piston calipers w/ slotted 13" rotors
Wilwood FNSL 4 piston calipers w/12.88" slotted rotors
Stainless brake lines
Strano MC/firewall brace
TR6ix plugs, MSD wires
Snow Performance 20150 dual jet meth injection
Amsoil EA-83a air filter
OE SS Center-mount Exhaust
Be Cool Alum. Radiator, Hayden 30k trans cooler, Hayden PS cooler, RX catch can
Here are some pics of the port job. The used heads in some of the pics are stock 241s.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ed-1le-ss.html
My Build (Operation OVERKILL):
2002 1LE SS Camaro 28k miles
Mamofied AFR 215cc Heads
-ported 2.055/1.60 valves w/ 8019 springs
Mamofied FAST 102 w/ NW 102 TB
TSP 102mm MAF, FTP 104mm lid
YT Ultralights
Manton 11/32 hardened pushrods
Johnson 2216 leak-matched short-travel linkbar lifters w/ axle oiling
Comp 227/231 .613/.617 114+1
Rollmaster Adjustable Timing Set
C5R chain
SLP 1 3/4" Long Tubes ("new" style)
Hi Flow Cats
QTP 3" E-cutout
SLP 25% UDP
Racetronix 255lph pump w/ hotwire
FIC 36lb flow-matched skinny injectors
Reactor Aluminum Flexplate
Circle D 36-3800 single-clutch billet converter
RPM Level 7 Tranny
MWC Fab 9" 3.70:1
31sp big pinion aluminum center
MWC Watts link, Aluminum LCAs, long TA
UMI RR K member
UMI Chromoly adjustable upper A-arms
UMI Boxed RR adjustable lower A-arms
Wilwood FNSL6 6 piston calipers w/ slotted 13" rotors
Wilwood FNSL 4 piston calipers w/12.88" slotted rotors
Stainless brake lines
Strano MC/firewall brace
TR6ix plugs, MSD wires
Snow Performance 20150 dual jet meth injection
Amsoil EA-83a air filter
OE SS Center-mount Exhaust
Be Cool Alum. Radiator, Hayden 30k trans cooler, Hayden PS cooler, RX catch can
Here are some pics of the port job. The used heads in some of the pics are stock 241s.
Last edited by therabidweasel; 07-28-2018 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Added front suspenders
11-19-2012, 11:22 PM
#3
I believe I'm running about 80% duty cycle. They are 36lb at whatever they rate them at, which is lower than ls1 pressure. I believe I read somewhere that high duty cycle is better than low, but really I just went with FIC's suggestion.
04-27-2013, 07:23 AM
#7
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Nice car/tools. Your car must be a blast to drive. I have a firebird (car weights 3,400 and I weight 260) w/ a 427 and 6 speed. I think low/mid 10s wouldn't be a problem with a decent launch. My biggest problem is the launch. I don't like to beat on it so I mostly bog.
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05-16-2013, 06:01 PM
#10
...hey look at this thread I never finished that you guys found. I should put some more pics and update the mods I guess, lol.
Thanks for the info/comments. I love the car, its so damn beasty and even with the stock slp catback the sound is amazing...the car gets a lot of looks. Its been eyef?%&@d by every gearhead in the county.
I hope to be getting to the track in the next couple of months now that I have a built tranny. Times will go hear and in the dyno thread I guess.
Thanks for the info/comments. I love the car, its so damn beasty and even with the stock slp catback the sound is amazing...the car gets a lot of looks. Its been eyef?%&@d by every gearhead in the county.
I hope to be getting to the track in the next couple of months now that I have a built tranny. Times will go hear and in the dyno thread I guess.
05-16-2013, 08:28 PM
#12
OK so here is what we started with sitting in front of a pretty little spot up here in NH. It's a 1LE so it has the stance of a frightened cat having its temperature taken. That's me getting out, I prefer to remain a partial enigma.
Just getting started:
So I cleaned the pistons with wet dry sandpaper and WD40. It's the Mamo way, but I've since read it is much easier to use Brakecleen. I also put in the LS6 valley cover. Cutting your block with a dremel is a bit of an experience. . .not a big deal really, not nearly as bad as the shift kit and gears.
During the deck prep I fretted SO much about these machine marks from the factory. After many hours invested I could still hang a nail on them. . .but it sealed with the factory gaskets and it's now sealed with Cometics.
Ohhh, finally time to put that pretty Mamofied goodness on top
Oh S!@%! The night after torquing the heads down, I awoke in a cold sweat thinking "Man, those lifters didn't really go in as smooth as I thought they should." This is what I did getting the lifter back out. It had a burr by the axle. . .always check people. (Dont ask whose lifter, it was my error, I wont tell). I very gently smoothed the lifter bores with the OE lifters and removed the loose burrs with a zip tie dipped in break in grease. It took two full days to do this. Time to switch to some Johnson Short Travel goodness, but it's the first run of those so I need to wait.
Hey, I know what. While I'm waiting I'll put in a shift kit and some 3.73s. I've never done either of those things. . .
^^^^^WTF is all this stuff. Boy am I glad the old man was a trans mechanic, those 54 pairs of snap ring pliers sure cam in handy.
I did not like these thin metal flakes in the channels under the valve body. I removed them all very carefully, it took a weekend.
That was a little iffy, but I think the shift kit is in correctly. I used a dab of vaseline to hold all the check ***** in. I sure am glad I removed the trans to do that work. (It turns out the kit was in correctly and it worked really well. I recommend the mod, but it isn't for the feint of heart IMO
Just getting started:
So I cleaned the pistons with wet dry sandpaper and WD40. It's the Mamo way, but I've since read it is much easier to use Brakecleen. I also put in the LS6 valley cover. Cutting your block with a dremel is a bit of an experience. . .not a big deal really, not nearly as bad as the shift kit and gears.
During the deck prep I fretted SO much about these machine marks from the factory. After many hours invested I could still hang a nail on them. . .but it sealed with the factory gaskets and it's now sealed with Cometics.
Ohhh, finally time to put that pretty Mamofied goodness on top
Oh S!@%! The night after torquing the heads down, I awoke in a cold sweat thinking "Man, those lifters didn't really go in as smooth as I thought they should." This is what I did getting the lifter back out. It had a burr by the axle. . .always check people. (Dont ask whose lifter, it was my error, I wont tell). I very gently smoothed the lifter bores with the OE lifters and removed the loose burrs with a zip tie dipped in break in grease. It took two full days to do this. Time to switch to some Johnson Short Travel goodness, but it's the first run of those so I need to wait.
Hey, I know what. While I'm waiting I'll put in a shift kit and some 3.73s. I've never done either of those things. . .
^^^^^WTF is all this stuff. Boy am I glad the old man was a trans mechanic, those 54 pairs of snap ring pliers sure cam in handy.
I did not like these thin metal flakes in the channels under the valve body. I removed them all very carefully, it took a weekend.
That was a little iffy, but I think the shift kit is in correctly. I used a dab of vaseline to hold all the check ***** in. I sure am glad I removed the trans to do that work. (It turns out the kit was in correctly and it worked really well. I recommend the mod, but it isn't for the feint of heart IMO
05-16-2013, 09:07 PM
#13
So these pictures are a little old and arent in the real order that I did stuff, but the story is about the order I did these things.
So I've got the motor apart and the trans out. . .why not add some gears, they're cheap enough! (Yeah right, if you have the tools and dont screw the pooch every weekend for 3 months!) After finally getting all the **** apart, buying all the bearings 2-3 times, shim kits, a press, an additional dial gauge, worthless pinion depth gauge, bearing puller, and tapered seal drivers, trying every possible substitute for gear paint (spray on brake quietner aint bad!). . .I finally get this pattern. It's the best I can do, literally 3 months have passed (EVERY GD! WEEKEND AGGGGHHHHH), lets put it together
^^^This is the good one, with real gear paint. The red above it is the brake quietner. Once I get it back together I get to put all this new stuff on!
Yup, just gotta drive this axle bearing in with my new (bigger) seal driver. . .
^^^^The first of these went in ok, a little stiff, but it went in and I could get my c-clips on the axle. But I beat the ever-loving hell out of the second of these pieces of crap. . .and it would only go in about half way. I beat it with a 5lb minisledge and totally mushroomed by driver. I hogged out the axle tubes a bit with a dremel and beat some more. . .for days.
DO NOT USE AXLE BEARINGS THAT LOOK LIKE THE ABOVE!!! Those are repair bearings and I have a $5k bounty on the ********* of the bastard that thought them up. They+my ignorance put my 10 bolt in the scrap heap. Use bearings that look like the OE ones:
Long talk with the wife, she approves. . .I'm moving next years purchase of a Fab 9" to now. . .I do not have the money to do this, but its worth it to save my sanity. She was very cool through the whole build, and she's way hotter than I should be able to pull down!
OK, while I'm waiting on the 9", time to get that FUGLY *** grey turd intake to look a little better. A few hours with some drywall sanding sponges and its just a touch uglier. . .then progressively prettier. The coats were 1 coat plastic primer, 2 coats sandable primer, 1 coat black primer, 3 coats low-gloss black Duplicolor. IT AINT A CAMARO IF IT DONT HAVE SPRAYPAINT SOMEWHERE!
So I got the new killer lifters in. I've got some new Cometics because I dont want to use them again (that's pair #2 for those counting). Lifters go in smooth as butter. Much better than the old set. They're short travel so I need to get the preload dead nuts at 0.030" (HOT) per the manufacturer (so that's about 0.037" cold).
So I measure every cylinder several times. Each cylinder has it's own set of rockers, pedestals, pedestal shims. I use two adjustable pushrods so that the rocker pair doesnt sit crooked and I can lash them at the same time. I did this many, many times for each cylinder. To achieve the correct preload I need pushrods between 7.6350" and 7.6565". Manton sells pushrods in 0.005" increments, and each has a tolerance of 0.0025". I order differing amounts of 4 differnt lengths to cover the range.
With the rods that I received (remember each has tolerance) I was able to set my preload on each valve within the range 0.0375" to 0.0420". . .so I'm good within 0.005".
And just for good measure I'm going to measure the preload as I torque the rockers down:
So I've got the motor apart and the trans out. . .why not add some gears, they're cheap enough! (Yeah right, if you have the tools and dont screw the pooch every weekend for 3 months!) After finally getting all the **** apart, buying all the bearings 2-3 times, shim kits, a press, an additional dial gauge, worthless pinion depth gauge, bearing puller, and tapered seal drivers, trying every possible substitute for gear paint (spray on brake quietner aint bad!). . .I finally get this pattern. It's the best I can do, literally 3 months have passed (EVERY GD! WEEKEND AGGGGHHHHH), lets put it together
^^^This is the good one, with real gear paint. The red above it is the brake quietner. Once I get it back together I get to put all this new stuff on!
Yup, just gotta drive this axle bearing in with my new (bigger) seal driver. . .
^^^^The first of these went in ok, a little stiff, but it went in and I could get my c-clips on the axle. But I beat the ever-loving hell out of the second of these pieces of crap. . .and it would only go in about half way. I beat it with a 5lb minisledge and totally mushroomed by driver. I hogged out the axle tubes a bit with a dremel and beat some more. . .for days.
DO NOT USE AXLE BEARINGS THAT LOOK LIKE THE ABOVE!!! Those are repair bearings and I have a $5k bounty on the ********* of the bastard that thought them up. They+my ignorance put my 10 bolt in the scrap heap. Use bearings that look like the OE ones:
Long talk with the wife, she approves. . .I'm moving next years purchase of a Fab 9" to now. . .I do not have the money to do this, but its worth it to save my sanity. She was very cool through the whole build, and she's way hotter than I should be able to pull down!
OK, while I'm waiting on the 9", time to get that FUGLY *** grey turd intake to look a little better. A few hours with some drywall sanding sponges and its just a touch uglier. . .then progressively prettier. The coats were 1 coat plastic primer, 2 coats sandable primer, 1 coat black primer, 3 coats low-gloss black Duplicolor. IT AINT A CAMARO IF IT DONT HAVE SPRAYPAINT SOMEWHERE!
So I got the new killer lifters in. I've got some new Cometics because I dont want to use them again (that's pair #2 for those counting). Lifters go in smooth as butter. Much better than the old set. They're short travel so I need to get the preload dead nuts at 0.030" (HOT) per the manufacturer (so that's about 0.037" cold).
So I measure every cylinder several times. Each cylinder has it's own set of rockers, pedestals, pedestal shims. I use two adjustable pushrods so that the rocker pair doesnt sit crooked and I can lash them at the same time. I did this many, many times for each cylinder. To achieve the correct preload I need pushrods between 7.6350" and 7.6565". Manton sells pushrods in 0.005" increments, and each has a tolerance of 0.0025". I order differing amounts of 4 differnt lengths to cover the range.
With the rods that I received (remember each has tolerance) I was able to set my preload on each valve within the range 0.0375" to 0.0420". . .so I'm good within 0.005".
And just for good measure I'm going to measure the preload as I torque the rockers down:
Last edited by therabidweasel; 05-16-2013 at 10:46 PM.
05-16-2013, 09:34 PM
#15
So you saw all that 10-bolt suspension stuff I had already bought, right? Like, the expensive chromoly stuff there that wont work with a 9"? Yeah, it was time to move my trader rating off of zero.
I could have kept the LCAs, but I just found out the MWC has aluminum LCAs and that they're cheap. The car is a 1LE, might as well go for the light suspension stuff. If anyone wants the chromoly LCAs I still have them, they're the only thing I havent sold. . .no lowballs though.
Anyway, now that the intake is done my new lifters are in I can put the motor together. Now it's looking real:
Now things are looking good, I just have to get the rockers back on and EFFYOUSEEKAY on the very last one, Cylinder number 8, I drop a rocker shim down the oil drain and into the lifter galley. Time to pull the heads and buy a THIRD set of Cometics! (OK, one cometic)
While I'm waiting on my special Mamofied 0.040" head gasket I can go pick up the 9"
^^^^**** YOU FEDEX! Yeah, notice how there is no crate around the rear, that its just on a little pad? Well that AINT how MWC ships it. Bastards broke the crate pushing on it with a lift and the powder coating got jacked. . .I hit it with some krylon and put it in. . .it took too long to get that thing as it was and I was leaving town. Made a claim on it, never saw a dime.
Here is my 3.5" Aluminum PST driveshaft next to the OE shaft. IT was an inch shorter. Strange yoke. Below that is a 1/2" screw in wheel stud compared to a 12mm press in OE stud
And here is the OE screw together water pump compared to the replacement stamped together pump that you do not have to grind in order to install a FAST102
Here is the BeCool with the built in tranny cooler alongside the OE radiator. The arrow points to a fitting that is not need on an 02 Camaro. I think it is for the LT1 cars. I decided to remove the liquid/liquid PS cooler and install a liquid/air cooler down where the air pump was
Reactor flexplate with the special, longer Circle D crank bolts. They were just a touch to long so I had to install some 7/16" hardened washers. I bought them at Lowes and mic'd them to make sure they were all the same. Pretty isn't it?
So after I got the car running I could tell the the 3rd gear clutch was not going to last very long, so I bought an FLT Level 7 4L60 from a guy on here that had it behind a nitrous powered 40something. I got a good deal. I had it shipped to RPM for a refresh and the small upgrade to make it an RPM Level 7 minus the SFI bell housing. . .I had my Circle D 3200 stall cut, cleaned, and restalled up to 36-3800. Chris refers to this as a "4C". He did me a really good deal on it as I was just out of the restall window. I love the stall and Circle D has been great to deal with. RPM were also easy to deal with, answered their phones and my questions. Nice honest guys all.
The MWC Fab 9 went in as easy as the stocker came out. The gears were already set and I just had to press the axles together. . .luckily I had bought a press for my failed attempt at the 10 bolt.
After all that was in I needed to put in the MWC DS loop. I had to manhandle, pry, and bend on it, but it sits perfectly around that big DS now.
I could have kept the LCAs, but I just found out the MWC has aluminum LCAs and that they're cheap. The car is a 1LE, might as well go for the light suspension stuff. If anyone wants the chromoly LCAs I still have them, they're the only thing I havent sold. . .no lowballs though.
Anyway, now that the intake is done my new lifters are in I can put the motor together. Now it's looking real:
Now things are looking good, I just have to get the rockers back on and EFFYOUSEEKAY on the very last one, Cylinder number 8, I drop a rocker shim down the oil drain and into the lifter galley. Time to pull the heads and buy a THIRD set of Cometics! (OK, one cometic)
While I'm waiting on my special Mamofied 0.040" head gasket I can go pick up the 9"
^^^^**** YOU FEDEX! Yeah, notice how there is no crate around the rear, that its just on a little pad? Well that AINT how MWC ships it. Bastards broke the crate pushing on it with a lift and the powder coating got jacked. . .I hit it with some krylon and put it in. . .it took too long to get that thing as it was and I was leaving town. Made a claim on it, never saw a dime.
Here is my 3.5" Aluminum PST driveshaft next to the OE shaft. IT was an inch shorter. Strange yoke. Below that is a 1/2" screw in wheel stud compared to a 12mm press in OE stud
And here is the OE screw together water pump compared to the replacement stamped together pump that you do not have to grind in order to install a FAST102
Here is the BeCool with the built in tranny cooler alongside the OE radiator. The arrow points to a fitting that is not need on an 02 Camaro. I think it is for the LT1 cars. I decided to remove the liquid/liquid PS cooler and install a liquid/air cooler down where the air pump was
Reactor flexplate with the special, longer Circle D crank bolts. They were just a touch to long so I had to install some 7/16" hardened washers. I bought them at Lowes and mic'd them to make sure they were all the same. Pretty isn't it?
So after I got the car running I could tell the the 3rd gear clutch was not going to last very long, so I bought an FLT Level 7 4L60 from a guy on here that had it behind a nitrous powered 40something. I got a good deal. I had it shipped to RPM for a refresh and the small upgrade to make it an RPM Level 7 minus the SFI bell housing. . .I had my Circle D 3200 stall cut, cleaned, and restalled up to 36-3800. Chris refers to this as a "4C". He did me a really good deal on it as I was just out of the restall window. I love the stall and Circle D has been great to deal with. RPM were also easy to deal with, answered their phones and my questions. Nice honest guys all.
The MWC Fab 9 went in as easy as the stocker came out. The gears were already set and I just had to press the axles together. . .luckily I had bought a press for my failed attempt at the 10 bolt.
After all that was in I needed to put in the MWC DS loop. I had to manhandle, pry, and bend on it, but it sits perfectly around that big DS now.
Last edited by therabidweasel; 05-16-2013 at 10:32 PM.
05-16-2013, 09:54 PM
#16
Here's a couple of shots with it all together:
Here's a quick idle/rev clip that I took tonight. Sorry if it sucks, she was hungry and it is not fully warmed up. Can ANYONE's wife properly rev a motor? She is great in every way. . .except for anything to do with motor vehicle abuse. She doesnt even speed. That loud *** scraping sound is the IAC echoing through the 10Xmm canyon of an intake path. It is so friggin loud with the hood up. I'll try and get one with the cutout open at some point. . .it sounds really really good with the cats and ypipe IMO, but the neighbors dont care for it.
Original Idle Video (shortish)
Newly Updated Video inc. w/ Cutout Open (longish)
Here's a quick idle/rev clip that I took tonight. Sorry if it sucks, she was hungry and it is not fully warmed up. Can ANYONE's wife properly rev a motor? She is great in every way. . .except for anything to do with motor vehicle abuse. She doesnt even speed. That loud *** scraping sound is the IAC echoing through the 10Xmm canyon of an intake path. It is so friggin loud with the hood up. I'll try and get one with the cutout open at some point. . .it sounds really really good with the cats and ypipe IMO, but the neighbors dont care for it.
Original Idle Video (shortish)
Newly Updated Video inc. w/ Cutout Open (longish)
Last edited by therabidweasel; 11-04-2014 at 07:09 PM. Reason: Update vid(s)
05-16-2013, 10:41 PM
#17
Hey, if your car is a hardtop, is the paint on the top all bumpy? I mean way beyond orange peel, like welds that were not ground down properly? My car is so beautiful with a ton of Zaino on it. . .except the top. It was like that the day it arrived on the transport. I know (mine at least) was the last year they'd be making the car, but they deserved to have the plant torn down if my top was the best they could muster. . .rant over.
05-16-2013, 11:11 PM
#18
Looking very nice.
Are you going to go with a 402 or something down the line? The shortblock is your weak link now.
I know, I'm in the same boat. Sitting here looking at pulling the trigger on a Strange S60 and RPM Level V... and well then a 370 or something.
It never ends.
Are you going to go with a 402 or something down the line? The shortblock is your weak link now.
I know, I'm in the same boat. Sitting here looking at pulling the trigger on a Strange S60 and RPM Level V... and well then a 370 or something.
It never ends.
05-17-2013, 05:23 AM
#19
TECH Fanatic
Nice build, pity you had to do things twice all the time, guess you needed a proper build plan from the start.
As for grinding the LS1 water pump to fit the Fast 102, guess you didn't search...if you had you would have seen where I fitted the LS1 GTO pump, it clears without issues.
Alloy radiators! Why use one for the street, don't you realise they are extremely high maintainence & not really worth anything over a normal radiator apart from, weight & the wow! factor.
Just my 02, no disrespect intended.
As for grinding the LS1 water pump to fit the Fast 102, guess you didn't search...if you had you would have seen where I fitted the LS1 GTO pump, it clears without issues.
Alloy radiators! Why use one for the street, don't you realise they are extremely high maintainence & not really worth anything over a normal radiator apart from, weight & the wow! factor.
Just my 02, no disrespect intended.
05-17-2013, 05:42 AM
#20
Nice build, pity you had to do things twice all the time, guess you needed a proper build plan from the start.
As for grinding the LS1 water pump to fit the Fast 102, guess you didn't search...if you had you would have seen where I fitted the LS1 GTO pump, it clears without issues.
Alloy radiators! Why use one for the street, don't you realise they are extremely high maintainence & not really worth anything over a normal radiator apart from, weight & the wow! factor.
Just my 02, no disrespect intended.
As for grinding the LS1 water pump to fit the Fast 102, guess you didn't search...if you had you would have seen where I fitted the LS1 GTO pump, it clears without issues.
Alloy radiators! Why use one for the street, don't you realise they are extremely high maintainence & not really worth anything over a normal radiator apart from, weight & the wow! factor.
Just my 02, no disrespect intended.
Curious what you mean on the radiator maintenance. You cant beak the nipples off a metal radiator and its capacity is so far beyond that of the stocker they cant even be compared. I can beat her pretty hard and not get above 200...and the stall heat is in there too. Stocker could barely handle me stock. Curious to know on maintenance how it is different given that the stocker is also aluminum?
Jake, if I go bigger id have to upgrade everything else, lol. Seriously though I wanted something reliable and strong for a few years...will give me time to decide if i want to go fi or nitrous...I was pretty down on more hp due to traction limitations of tires at street temps. But now that its 50+ outside I dont spin at 90...so maybe this money pit will be the one to get the big cubes + undetermined power adder.