After I complete my Pewter cars initial phase in the build, I would like to have some fun with the DD.

Goal? 95% stock looking/sounding/etc car capable of running bottom 7s @ 100+. I want it so even if an educated LsX owner looked the car over, they would find little to nothing to make them suspicious the car is modded more than a lid.

Here is my plan so far:

AI worked 241s
Stealth cam... It will have zero lope and retain stock RPM idle. Something like high 21X/ low 22X .58X 114 I even considered an ls6 cam as I can use the stock springs/etc since this is a strict budget (I'm not crazy about spending a ton on the DD and taking away money from the toy).
Money marker intake- Pilled with either 75 or 100 shot. I will only use it if I absolutely have to to win, if I'm winning it will never be sprayed.

I was considering an underdrive pulley... However, that would stand out to me looking a car over as very few people would install an UD pulley and not have many other things done prior or during that swap. Thoughts?

I am up in the air about the exhaust... It has the SLP dual dual on it so I am set as far as a catback goes. It draws attention just stock and I don't want to to be loud. For some reason even swapping to a LM would make people thing it is faster than it is because it is loud. If I do anything to exhaust it will be pacesetters with a FM merge.
I understand the gains that would be had on a H/C car with full exhaust, and what I would be leaving on the table.
However, I think exhaust would GREATLY take away from the total sleeper effect. I want it to seem stock. If it is still extremely quiet with LTs ORY into the factory SLP DD I would probably do it, but it would have to be BARELY louder.

Chrs1313 ram air... If I did it, I would paint it black so it didn't stand out. Not only do I think most people wouldn't notice it, most people wouldn't care if it was on there, it isn't going to make THAT much of a difference but will show gains. I will pick up a used one for cheap.

Stock gearing will be staying in the car as traction is already hard to come by.

Any input/advice is appreciated. I have never considered a build as such so I might be forgetting some simple things and I want input on the exhaust, etc..

 

Long tubes with a magnaflow catback has always sounded very tame to me. Just remember, itll only take one race spraying before people get the idea that things dont add up.

 

A good place to start would be to include more cubes, like an aluminum 364 or possibly 370 since most of the markings are only visible in the back of the block. If it were my car and I had the goal of an ultra sleeper, I'd leave the stock air lid while modifying the underside of it to be smooth. But in the end, I bet the money maker pilled differently is your most economical path to reaching your goal. Also, suspension and gearing can get you far without any change to exhaust tone, just a thought... Good luck!

 

IMO, headers will stand out a lot more than a UD crank pulley. I go a head and put a PowerBond crank pulley on it. If you still go with LT headers & ory-pipe go with the BBK lt headers & ory-pipe setup, it tucks up really good and the chrome model is only $370. I'd also recommend putting a Magnaflow #14419 bullet muffler in the I-pipe since it will be louder without cats. For a cam go with one that has about 10* overlap, like a 218/222 115lsa or 220/220 115lsa with lt headers, or Tick Performance smog cam (218/230 117lsa+2) with stock exhaust manifolds.

 

Magnaflow is very tame with full exhaust. However, it is still louder than what I'm wanting.. I don't want people to hear it and think the car has any mods (it is already loud with the SLP DD for a bone stock car). The SLP dual dual will stay no matter what, it is the LTs and ORY I'm undecided on... I have never had a chance to hear it so I'm cautious on this. I already have a set of headers and FM merge in the garage if I decide on this route.. I think it might actually make it a little easier to bull **** people.. It is a stock car with nothing more than a lid and full exhaust... Instead of, you just got **** raped in your 375Rwhp car by a showroom stock 300Rwhp car.

Nobody, nobody, will know what is done to the car. Everyone already thinks I spray it because it is an extremely hard running car and I can drive/shift correctly. It beats things much worse than it "should" and keeps up/is even with things it "should" get pulled by for a car with a lid and shorter stick only.
I am decent at making enough things add up that people aren't going to pin point what is done. So much BS gets thrown around my town, you can beat a car 7 lengths and people hear it was neck and neck.. Neck and neck and it was a slaughter one way or the other. Anybody with some sense to them will know something is done to the car but if they cant find anything they cant prove anything

This is somewhat of a budget, more cubes are out of the question... I have a 370 in the toy. When I get ready to go another step further on the pewter car then the DD will receive a more tame version of the 370 I pull out of the pewter car.
I really did think about putting the stock lid back on... It doesn't really pick up any noticeable power. But then again, everyone knows a gearhead can't have a true 100% stock car so it would probably make them question it! LOL I think the lid can pass.

Suspension is staying stock unless I upgrade something on the pewter car, then the DD will get the part I took off the pewter car.
1st gear is already useless if I go completely WOT and it doesn't care for the bottom of 2nd either... If it is below 45 degrees, traction is a joke. The stock 3.42s will suffice for this... I also want to keep my MPG as I drive the car daily and often on 150+ mile round trips on the weekend to go out of town.

 

The BBKs are an awesome bang for the buck but I already have a set to throw on that I only have 150$ so I'll go that route.
I don't think many, if anyone, would notice an UD pulley so I'll probably toss one on. It doesn't absolutely mean there has been a cam swap.

Nice idea on the bullet if I do mess with the exhaust, that will help.


Thanks for the suggestions guys, keep them coming.

 

STS rear mounted turbo?

 

I would do the pulley for sure. Around a lot of places people are not online at forums like this getting educated...so they will buy one of these cars and do these mods:

flowmaster catback
throttle body spacer
underdrive pulley
Hypertech tune
SLP 85mm MAF
cheap shorty headers
"cold air intake" with a 90* bend instead of upgrading the lid and doing ram air


Then they wonder why the car is slow.

 

I love sleeper builds. For the exhaust you can probably get away with the manifolds and build a nice true dual setup but it might get costly. Go with a 2.5" setup with hollow cats (so it looks like theres cats in there) and maybe an X pipe with some dynomax ultraflows or something else quiet.

 

Exact type of build im interested in. My car is very quiet with mac midlengths, cats, and hooker catback (with stock tips mind u that). I also have plans to go with some AI 241's and a sleeper cam. 218/226 ~.600 117+3 to be exact. Mines an auto though so 4000 stall/373 are in the works also.

Will be keeping up with this thread for sure

 

Hidden dry shot or money maker and maybe a cheatr cam with worked 241s would be sick. That cam should work well with stock manifolds.

 

Or you can be logical and have 1 race car and a stock dd....that'd be too easy tho lol

 

Bingo!

 

Hard to hide that!
You have a point. I have an 85mm MAF that I'm going to throw on it. Might not be worth too much but it is worth something and won't stand out.

It has to run out the back so I can keep my tips... That is where it would end up being money. If I end up doing anything with the exhaust I will use the FM merge and headers I have now hooked up to my existing stock SLP DD.

It will be a good little bit before things start coming together but I will update with ET/MPH.

Now what fun would that be? LOL

I'd like for my DD to be able to run with a lot of peoples "fast" car.... That way I can say I'm not even going home to get the Pewter car. LOL

 

Here's my thoughts on this subject...
1. Most people don't care what intake setup you have... so all that is fair game.
2. The IM and TB would need to be stock appearing to not raise any suspicions.
3. An UD pulley isn't really a big deal even if seen.
4. Since you already got the SLP dual dual exhaust I would leave that alone.
5. I would go with the SLP Y pipe that connects to the stock manifolds.
6. You've got the right idea with AI ported heads and a stealth cam/quiet valvetrain.
7. Have the heads shaved to give a little bump in compression.
8. Hide the nitrous bottle in the spare tire well.
9. Hide the solenoids under the radiator shroud/air box.
10. Hide the n2o control switches in the center console.

 

Replied in RED.

Thanks for the thoughts, I like the SLP ORY.

 

Just use all ls6 stuff, minus the heads if you want to be really picky and you think people will notice the casting numbers. Bolt on ls6 make like 380-390 with LT's, instead just use their exhaust manifolds. They are nicer than the fboat ones. I'm sure 370 will be obtainable without them.

Ls6 cam
Ls6 exhaust manifolds
Ls6 intake
241 A.I. Ported/milled heads
Pulley
85mm MAF since you have it, but SD would be better.
Lid
Ported TB

 

if anything just upgrade the fuel system and hit it with a 200 shot/tune and call it a day since you need 2 racecars lol

 

I would love to see 400Rwhp out of whatever I end up putting together on motor. I don't expect to hit that but that would make for a very mean car for sounding/appearing like it has very mild bolt ons.
Come on now guys.... This is a "Fun" build, nothing like a race car. It is a challenge more than anything. It is going to feel like driving a bone stock car, even get very similar mpg... But be able to run with cam only/H/C setups. It reminds me of the "new power" coming out... Bone stock cars that are trapping 117+mph.
I hope the fast car on motor car could pull this one even spraying. LOL

 

Sounds like a nice dd build.