My Heads/Cam build
11-20-2012, 08:40 PM
#1
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My Heads/Cam build I started out wanting to do a budget H/C build and it has turned into a less of a budget build. I've been reading a lot on here over the past year or so and finanlly worked up the guts to do it this winter. I only get to work on it about one day a week so it will probably take me half the winter to get it done. I have an 230/230 cam, 243 heads with patriot gold double springs, oil pump, ls2 chain. As I get closer I'll need to pick up headers and an ls6 intake. The first night I was able to get the intake off. Tonight I was able to get one valve cover off and loosed the rockers. I hoping my next night on it I'll have the heads off and be on to removing the radiator and the steps that follow to remove the cam. I wasn't counting on the power steering pump being so difficult to remove or how hard it was to work around the back of the intake. Suprising the header bolts and ege/air stuff has came off pretty easily. I figured it would be siezed up seeing that the headers were rusted. The car has about 59kmi.
11-26-2012, 05:31 PM
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More parts arrived today. Gaskets, ls2 chain, and spark plugs from Texas Speed. This should be it until I get to the headers and intake which will probably be last. I was reading some threads about push rods. Now I'm thinking of getting a push rod checker just for good measure (pun intended) I have 7.425
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...build/tsp.jpeg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...build/tsp.jpeg
12-03-2012, 09:02 AM
#7
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The drivers head is off. The passenger header is sitting on two spark plugs wires that I haven't got off yet. As soon as that's done it will be ready to come out after a few bolts. After getting frustrated trying to get the plug wires out. I went ahead and removed the water pump. Which was pretty easy. 6 bolts easily accessible and 4 hoses. I went ahead and removed the radiator by myself. Undid the fan plugins under the car and the wire holders. I then stood on the front support of the car behind the bumper and tugged for awhile, pushing ac hoses out of the way. Ill post pics later today.
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12-03-2012, 09:32 AM
#8
The 243 heads are a great choice and will raise your compression from 10.19
to 10.45. I would have them milled .030" bringing the combustion chamber
from 64.45 down to 60.25 cc. The ensuing 11.1 compression ratio would
work very well with your 230/230 cam. Also 7.400 pushrods would be right on.
Good luck with your build and make extra double certain that ALL the oil and
antifreeze is out of the head bolt holes. I used Q tips cut in half and taped
into the ends of a McDonald's straw. I'd say it took at least 10-15 Q tips per
hole to get them dry enough to not hydrolock with the new bolts.
to 10.45. I would have them milled .030" bringing the combustion chamber
from 64.45 down to 60.25 cc. The ensuing 11.1 compression ratio would
work very well with your 230/230 cam. Also 7.400 pushrods would be right on.
Good luck with your build and make extra double certain that ALL the oil and
antifreeze is out of the head bolt holes. I used Q tips cut in half and taped
into the ends of a McDonald's straw. I'd say it took at least 10-15 Q tips per
hole to get them dry enough to not hydrolock with the new bolts.
12-03-2012, 11:57 AM
#9
Staging Lane
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Thanks for the pointers. I'm going to hold off on milling for now. Unless I find out I can get it done on the cheap? I will probably have them milled and ported and polished down the road along with a fast intake and injector upgrade. Thanks for the tips on cleaning out the bolt holes. Here's a pic of the current progress. The pistons are darker than I expected. I think it may be from oil coming from the intake? It looked like it had a coating of oil in it when I took it off.
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ild/photo1.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ild/photo1.jpg
12-21-2012, 03:46 PM
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I was able to work on the car for awhile this morning. I got the headers completely out. The other head is off. Now I'm just cleaning the old gasket off of the block, which is a slow process. As soon as that's done I'll finally be ready to unbolt the timing cover start removing the cam then I can finally start putting everything back together.
12-24-2012, 09:47 AM
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I would say the worst part has been taking the intake manifold off, removing the wiring that goes to it, and removing the coil pack brackets. Once I had that stuff out of the way it has been a lot easier to work on. I'm going to have to make sure I get the oil and coolant flushed really good. I didn't think about all the old gasket going down into the motor and coolant. I've tried to be careful but I know some old gasket has gotten in there. The only thing I'm unsure of at this point is torquing down the rocker bolts. I've read a few different theories. I think I'm going to torque them all down then rotate the motor/crank 90 degrees and torque again. Then maybe one more time for safe measure.
12-24-2012, 11:20 AM
#14
The 243 heads are a great choice and will raise your compression from 10.19
to 10.45. I would have them milled .030" bringing the combustion chamber
from 64.45 down to 60.25 cc. The ensuing 11.1 compression ratio would
work very well with your 230/230 cam. Also 7.400 pushrods would be right on.
Good luck with your build and make extra double certain that ALL the oil and
antifreeze is out of the head bolt holes. I used Q tips cut in half and taped
into the ends of a McDonald's straw. I'd say it took at least 10-15 Q tips per
hole to get them dry enough to not hydrolock with the new bolts.
to 10.45. I would have them milled .030" bringing the combustion chamber
from 64.45 down to 60.25 cc. The ensuing 11.1 compression ratio would
work very well with your 230/230 cam. Also 7.400 pushrods would be right on.
Good luck with your build and make extra double certain that ALL the oil and
antifreeze is out of the head bolt holes. I used Q tips cut in half and taped
into the ends of a McDonald's straw. I'd say it took at least 10-15 Q tips per
hole to get them dry enough to not hydrolock with the new bolts.
01-01-2013, 08:35 PM
#17
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I got the block pretty much as clean as I think I'm going to get it. I still have some head bolt holes that need cleaned out more. But I went ahead and removed the lifter trays and lifters then covered up the holes. I swept everything out with a shop vac. I had some old gasket down in the pistons and in the coolant ports. It sucked it out pretty well. I'll use some twisted up paper towel and an old head bolt to finish cleaning the bolt holes. I picked up more parts at the auto parts store, thread locker, rtv sealant, engine assembly lube, a 1/2in to 3/8in adapter to torque rocker bolts down later, coolant bypass gaskets, water pump gaskets.
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2c93d7e7.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9161a1d3.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2c93d7e7.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9161a1d3.jpg
