A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cam-guide.html
Please read this.......POST #2

Sinister_Z28

Thanks everyone

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

You will think its the coolest **** for about a week, then you will realize your car is a pain in the *** to drive. Trex is a bigass cam for a stock cube motor. yea, you can easily make 420rwhp+ cam only with it, but driving around town it sucks, and you can make comparable power with a smaller camshaft on stock ci. I've had one and Ive installed and tuned them a few times.

Get a smaller cam, the right setup will be much nicer to use than the trex.

Sinister_Z28

So what size should i go to get over 400hp to the rear wheels cam only

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
Cam only does typically include headers,ory,FAST intake,larger throttle body
and sometimes bigger injectors

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

I know for sure that off the shelf a MS3 will make over 400. Ive also had tiny cams in a good combo make right at 400.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I guess my stock 241 heads are special......You really should not post comments like this without proper knowledge of the subject at hand. I know that sounds like a dick thing to say, but what you said is totally untrue.

239/247 .624"/.624" 110+0 custom cam...Fast 92 intake, ARH 1x7/8" headers and an unlocked TH400 with a 4600 stall made these numbers...basically cam-only:

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Basically cam only, except basically totally opposite of what the op has...basically.

Your fast 92 is flows more than stock ls1 intake while your 1 7/8 headers flow a lot more than the cute little stock ls1 manifolds...the heads are only part of the equation. As you know.

Now correct me if that is wrong but it all makes sense to me using common logic.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

A Fast 92 and 1x7/8" headers do not change what the heads flow and where they stall. I was just pointing out the fallacy in your comment that is all. Not looking to start a pissing match or mess up the OP's thread.

BTW post number three highlights what his supporting mods will be and they don't look any different than mine aside from he will have ported heads from Advanced Induction which will only flow even better than my stock 241's. It is hard to tell whether the OP's version of "cam-only" means adding a cam to his current set-up that made 301hp or if he means "cam-only" with headers, Fast92 etc. Either way I felt compelled to show you that 241 heads don't stall at 5500rpm.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

OP, you can make GREAT numbers with something smaller. You really need at least an LS6 intake and longtube headers though. Get them first.

Yeah, I have AFR heads, but my cam is a HELL of a lot smaller than anything listed here so far. Martin is great with cams and is actually active on the board. I prefer Ed myself for obvious reasons, but I've learned to deal with how he communicates.

Be realistic with yourself and your goals.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Couldn't of said it better!

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Agreed, my point was the combination as a whole, heads, intake, exhaust...etc. and my reply was clearly toward his question about power...cam only, without supporting mods. You know as well as I do, with stock everything but a cat back, that cam would be a total turd and generally make the driving experience terrible.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Yes it would be horrible! I wouldn't advise going that route one bit, and I 9/10 steer my own customers away from even my biggest cam which would be an iteration of the one in my car now, or the V.2 Polluter. If they want something that big I point them towards the 235/242 111+3 cam I have.

That said I do have some V.2 Polluter results coming soon cam-only in a 6spd. Trans-Am we have at the shop now. Should be interesting for sure to see if it can eclipse the V.1 and it's other competitors.

Sinister_Z28

Thank u guys for all the good info. Ive been super busy lately and havent been on the web much. So basically if i want a cam to perform i need some bolt ons before hand. Also has anyone done a clutch change on there own cause i was quoted 1600 for the shop to put a OEM clutch and slave in. And they refused to install a performance clutch like a Monster Stage 2. So a little off topic question how hard is a clutch change in my drive way. Any little details that arent mentioned in the write ups or my Chilton manual?

Fry_

The only useful thing we used the Chilton manual for when doing my clutch was the torque specs. Either buy or rent all of the specialty tools, and get the car really high in the air.

Sinister_Z28

What specialty tools would i need besides torque wrenches and a transmission lift? This will be my first clutch change so any advice would be appreciated.

Fry_

A blind hole bearing puller for the pilot bearing is the only one I can think of. But I swear there was something else that we used, but I can't think of what it would be.

adamantium

iTrader: (3)

Get the proper bolt ons before adding any cam into the equation. I rather have a proper running bolt on car than a subpar running cammed car. Besides its alot easier to intake an Ls6 intake manifold and Longtubes then it is to do a cam swap.

94green1le

With just a full exhaust, lid, ls6 intake and the MS3 cam, my 01 TA made 420 RWHP and 390 RWTQ.

I also dont find the driveability of the MS3 all that bad either. Sure its not as civilized as a stock car but its not horrible. In fact, until I just recently picked up my new dd, i I drove my MS3 TA everyday. Never gave me issues and I wouldnt hesistate to drive it anywhere. Keep the revs above 1600 and you dont get any surge.

Sinister_Z28

Thanks for all the great feed back. Now can i get the pilot bearing tool from autozone?