A little pre-Christmas present
#21
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
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Yup. Overlap would be 10 degrees tho. For me that's a bit much. Folks talk about driving bigger cams with more overlap but to me 10 degrees is too much. I prefer 4 degrees and less. You could get away with a 113+2 and it'd drive better and give up
very little power down low and make more power above 5k. And it'd work better with the 60cc chambers. Btw MLS gaskets are .051" FWIW.
If you made drivability a concern at all Ed will probably recommend it that way. Remember the super tight ICLs are done to boost dynamic compression on stock heads with 10.1:1 CR. You have over 11.3:1 now. You can run a later intake valve closing point and still make torque. You'll make just as much power either way but with nicer street manners.
very little power down low and make more power above 5k. And it'd work better with the 60cc chambers. Btw MLS gaskets are .051" FWIW.
If you made drivability a concern at all Ed will probably recommend it that way. Remember the super tight ICLs are done to boost dynamic compression on stock heads with 10.1:1 CR. You have over 11.3:1 now. You can run a later intake valve closing point and still make torque. You'll make just as much power either way but with nicer street manners.
#22
FormerVendor
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If it were mine, and I had the go ahead on the cam events, with what you have to work with it would go as follows:
277/286@.006"
227/234@.050"
151/155@.200"
112LSA 110ICL 114ECL
227/234 .614"/.612" 112+2
#23
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I have a much more methodical method of devising which way to go with camshafts than what is the biggest that will fit, ask Jake Fusion he can tell ya
....that said I understand what you're trying to do and it's very common.
If it were mine, and I had the go ahead on the cam events, with what you have to work with it would go as follows:
277/286@.006"
227/234@.050"
151/155@.200"
112LSA 110ICL 114ECL
227/234 .614"/.612" 112+2
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
If it were mine, and I had the go ahead on the cam events, with what you have to work with it would go as follows:
277/286@.006"
227/234@.050"
151/155@.200"
112LSA 110ICL 114ECL
227/234 .614"/.612" 112+2
#24
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
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It would clear. You'd have about .050" of intake clearance. Which is a little tight, but it'd work. But, you'd be at 8.8:1 DCR, which is too high for 93 with a .051" gasket. Drop the 60cc to 62cc and you'd drop to 8.56:1 and be fine on 93 with that quench. Plus, you'd pick up another .012" of clearance. All would be better for a street car.
I'd expect you to be in the 450/420 range.
I'd expect you to be in the 450/420 range.
#26
8 Second Club
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I am at 61cc. Cam is 226/230 .608/.597 114 +3. I degreed it.
Also using the GM MLS.
PTV was .075" on the intake.
On our 92 octane E10, I can't run more than 22 deg of timing or it detonates. I will be adding water meth to eliminate this and it's N/A.
Mr. Mamo says these heads don't like more than 4 deg split in dur In to Exh.
Why do you want 110-112 lobe sep?
Between the max cam that will "fit" and one that fits comfortably, you aren't looking at a ton of hp diff. I'd bet less than 10. And if you get the largest that someone "says" will fit, and it doesn't, you will be pissed.
Are you going to race the car or just looking for RWHP numbers to impress?
Curious why one head has glass beaded chambers? I'd be polishing those to help keep the carbon from sticking.
I am an A4 and have no dyno numbers.
Ron
Also using the GM MLS.
PTV was .075" on the intake.
On our 92 octane E10, I can't run more than 22 deg of timing or it detonates. I will be adding water meth to eliminate this and it's N/A.
Mr. Mamo says these heads don't like more than 4 deg split in dur In to Exh.
Why do you want 110-112 lobe sep?
Between the max cam that will "fit" and one that fits comfortably, you aren't looking at a ton of hp diff. I'd bet less than 10. And if you get the largest that someone "says" will fit, and it doesn't, you will be pissed.
Are you going to race the car or just looking for RWHP numbers to impress?
Curious why one head has glass beaded chambers? I'd be polishing those to help keep the carbon from sticking.
I am an A4 and have no dyno numbers.
Ron
#27
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
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You think that cam would clear the AFR 60cc heads, using the GM MLS gaskets? With that cam, the AFR heads, LS6 intake, long tubes, Lid, true duals and it being a M6, what type of numbers would you expect it to make? Also, if I decide to have you cut this cam for me, what would the cost be and what lobes would they be?
It would clear. You'd have about .050" of intake clearance. Which is a little tight, but it'd work. But, you'd be at 8.8:1 DCR, which is too high for 93 with a .051" gasket. Drop the 60cc to 62cc and you'd drop to 8.56:1 and be fine on 93 with that quench. Plus, you'd pick up another .012" of clearance. All would be better for a street car.
I'd expect you to be in the 450/420 range.
I'd expect you to be in the 450/420 range.
I am at 61cc. Cam is 226/230 .608/.597 114 +3. I degreed it.
Also using the GM MLS.
PTV was .075" on the intake.
On our 92 octane E10, I can't run more than 22 deg of timing or it detonates. I will be adding water meth to eliminate this and it's N/A.
Mr. Mamo says these heads don't like more than 4 deg split in dur In to Exh.
Why do you want 110-112 lobe sep?
Between the max cam that will "fit" and one that fits comfortably, you aren't looking at a ton of hp diff. I'd bet less than 10. And if you get the largest that someone "says" will fit, and it doesn't, you will be pissed.
Are you going to race the car or just looking for RWHP numbers to impress?
Curious why one head has glass beaded chambers? I'd be polishing those to help keep the carbon from sticking.
I am an A4 and have no dyno numbers.
Ron
Also using the GM MLS.
PTV was .075" on the intake.
On our 92 octane E10, I can't run more than 22 deg of timing or it detonates. I will be adding water meth to eliminate this and it's N/A.
Mr. Mamo says these heads don't like more than 4 deg split in dur In to Exh.
Why do you want 110-112 lobe sep?
Between the max cam that will "fit" and one that fits comfortably, you aren't looking at a ton of hp diff. I'd bet less than 10. And if you get the largest that someone "says" will fit, and it doesn't, you will be pissed.
Are you going to race the car or just looking for RWHP numbers to impress?
Curious why one head has glass beaded chambers? I'd be polishing those to help keep the carbon from sticking.
I am an A4 and have no dyno numbers.
Ron
#33
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
I've had people run 8.7:1-8.9:1 on 93 with no issues. Total timing ended up around 24-26 degrees though, still made great power. Tighter quench was helpful in doing so with the reduced amount of ignition timing that could be run.
Why?
You don't need as much timing if the dynamic compression is that high. It helps burn the fuel more completely without the need for additional spark advance.
#34
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I am at 61cc. Cam is 226/230 .608/.597 114 +3. I degreed it.
Also using the GM MLS.
PTV was .075" on the intake.
On our 92 octane E10, I can't run more than 22 deg of timing or it detonates. I will be adding water meth to eliminate this and it's N/A.
Mr. Mamo says these heads don't like more than 4 deg split in dur In to Exh.
Why do you want 110-112 lobe sep?
Between the max cam that will "fit" and one that fits comfortably, you aren't looking at a ton of hp diff. I'd bet less than 10. And if you get the largest that someone "says" will fit, and it doesn't, you will be pissed.
Are you going to race the car or just looking for RWHP numbers to impress?
Curious why one head has glass beaded chambers? I'd be polishing those to help keep the carbon from sticking.
I am an A4 and have no dyno numbers.
Ron
Also using the GM MLS.
PTV was .075" on the intake.
On our 92 octane E10, I can't run more than 22 deg of timing or it detonates. I will be adding water meth to eliminate this and it's N/A.
Mr. Mamo says these heads don't like more than 4 deg split in dur In to Exh.
Why do you want 110-112 lobe sep?
Between the max cam that will "fit" and one that fits comfortably, you aren't looking at a ton of hp diff. I'd bet less than 10. And if you get the largest that someone "says" will fit, and it doesn't, you will be pissed.
Are you going to race the car or just looking for RWHP numbers to impress?
Curious why one head has glass beaded chambers? I'd be polishing those to help keep the carbon from sticking.
I am an A4 and have no dyno numbers.
Ron
The car is basically a weekend warrior that I'll race on the street and some at the track. I e-mailed Ed today, so I'll see what he suggests.
How should I go about polishing the chambers? Would using something like Flitz pre-alluminum spray to get off the carbon and the polishing with Adams metal polish work? If not, what would you suggest?
#36
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Dr. Whigham - did you take any pics of your AFR heads prior to installing them? If so, can you post them up?
#38
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
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what is called boundary layer dropout. Infinitesmally close to the cutter marks
an airflow vortex is created to promote fuel atomization....no longer an issue
with direct injection as the port only flows air. This is why cylinder head comp
anies have been using wet flow technology for years to study where in the
port the colored dye sticks to the walls (boundary layer dropout).
As Ron stated...I also wonder why the one head has bead blasted chambers
and the other looks somewhat polished ???? Most of Mamo's builds have the
chambers not only chrome-like smooth but equally important the edges of the
chambers are chamferred after the fresh surface cut. This should always be
done as the edges will heat up and could lead to detonation. I suspect this
combo will make great power with only 23-24 deg of timing. I think Martin's
cam suggestion is RIGHT-ON, but the one unknown variable here is what cc
the heads are at...how much have they been milled AND were they each mill
ed the same amount....something you just never know with used heads.
#40
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CNC cutters leave a slight roughness which in the intake port helps prevent
what is called boundary layer dropout. Infinitesmally close to the cutter marks
an airflow vortex is created to promote fuel atomization....no longer an issue
with direct injection as the port only flows air. This is why cylinder head comp
anies have been using wet flow technology for years to study where in the
port the colored dye sticks to the walls (boundary layer dropout).
As Ron stated...I also wonder why the one head has bead blasted chambers
and the other looks somewhat polished ???? Most of Mamo's builds have the
chambers not only chrome-like smooth but equally important the edges of the
chambers are chamferred after the fresh surface cut. This should always be
done as the edges will heat up and could lead to detonation. I suspect this
combo will make great power with only 23-24 deg of timing. I think Martin's
cam suggestion is RIGHT-ON, but the one unknown variable here is what cc
the heads are at...how much have they been milled AND were they each mill
ed the same amount....something you just never know with used heads.
what is called boundary layer dropout. Infinitesmally close to the cutter marks
an airflow vortex is created to promote fuel atomization....no longer an issue
with direct injection as the port only flows air. This is why cylinder head comp
anies have been using wet flow technology for years to study where in the
port the colored dye sticks to the walls (boundary layer dropout).
As Ron stated...I also wonder why the one head has bead blasted chambers
and the other looks somewhat polished ???? Most of Mamo's builds have the
chambers not only chrome-like smooth but equally important the edges of the
chambers are chamferred after the fresh surface cut. This should always be
done as the edges will heat up and could lead to detonation. I suspect this
combo will make great power with only 23-24 deg of timing. I think Martin's
cam suggestion is RIGHT-ON, but the one unknown variable here is what cc
the heads are at...how much have they been milled AND were they each mill
ed the same amount....something you just never know with used heads.
What would the effects be if the heads are not the same, in regards to "cc" size. For instance, one is at 60cc and the other head is at 59.5cc. How would that effect power, torque and overall how well the car drives. I am going to get the heads measured; my builder has the tools to do it at his shop. I just need to find the time to get them into him when he's available.
Another question for you. Lets say the heads do measure in at 60cc, would it be beneficial to have them milled again for trueness? If so, what is the least amount I can take off?