Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

You will need to get the oil level sensor plug where you can see it good. It is a normal plug with a clip but it is completly covered by what it is plugged into. Once you get it where you can see it good you will see that you can take a small screw drive or pick and lift the clip enough to release the plug.

Sinister_Z28

Thanks for all your advice Texas WS6. I have been really busy with work and pulling apart my old motor. I have it out of the car and torn down to a short block. The heads " look " ok but with the extent of all the damage i wont be reusing them. The big hole is as long as my hand and i have a piston and rod that are in about a million pieces. Due to time constraints i am strongly considering a Thompson Motorsports iron 4028 short block. Any one running TMS motors? Would u recomend them? I have spoken with TMS and was very impressed with Kyles knowledge, patients, and costomer service. Now i plan on using L92 heads and a fast 102 intake intake. Will my stock injectors transfer over to the new intake. Sorry for all the questions but i want to get something good for the cost of this build.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

What crank, rod, piston, timing chain, and bolts do they use in that engine?

The injectors will fit with the right o-ring, but they are taller then what the fuel rail is built for. You can make it work, but you will most likely need larger injectors anyway. The stock LS1 injector is 28#. I do not remember if you have said if you have larger injectors already or not. The stock LS3 injector is a 32# I think. You are talking about building a stroked LS3 basically, I would bet you will need in the 36 to 42# range to feed it. I would not waist my time modifying the fuel rail to fit the stock LS1 injector.

Also the standard LS3 shorter injector that fits that manifold/fuel rail uses a different wiring harness plug. I would strongly recomend contacting John at FIC (Sponsor here). He will get you the correct injector for that manifold/fuel rail combo and the correct connectors so it will fit your wiring harness. If you get your injectors from him he will send you the HP Tuner of EFI Live injector data that you can give to your tuner. Ask him to email it to you. I purchase all my injectors from him. Great guy and great service.

Sinister_Z28

Eagle rods and crank, weisco pistons, ARP 2000 bolts, with cleivite bearings and Durabond cam bearings. I have to buy the timing chain so what is a good one.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like a good plan on the bottom end. To tell you the truth I have never had any issues with any of the double roller sets. I do not like all the slack in the single roller chains.

Sinister_Z28

Thanks for the info. Ill be running L92 heads a fast 102 intake and a aggressive cam. Any ideas on power

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

What are your pans for the heads, stock l92's?

Sinister_Z28

Contemplating getting a pair of ported L92's from tsp or just using a stock head and sending em to AI sometime in the future.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Just my two cents, If you want an inexpensive top end the L92 heads stock are a very good option. Don't bother porting them. If you flow that head with the intake you are talking about and then remove that intake you will find out it will not keep up with that head the way it is. At least not for the price of it. Huge waist of money really. In my opinion, for now get the L92 heads, good springs for the cam you chose and the stock LS3 intake manifold. The l92 head is not a ton of money and they really do flow great for the money, better then the cathedral heads, and I mean even most of the ported and aftermarket cathedrals. The LS3 intake is not a ton of money either. Keep in mind your LS1 factory fuel rail will not fit on any of the LS3 intakes. You will have to put aftermarket fuel rails on. The Map sensor is located on the front instead of the back. You will have to extend the three map sensor wires. Not an issue really.

All that said, if I was you, unless I had the cash ready right now, I would either do this for now, or put the LS1 stuff back on top. Then save up the bones (cash) and invest in a set of Mass Motor Sports heads LS3 medium bore heads. Now you are talking a real head, well without going to their canted head or their splayed and canted Mozes heads. The only problem with the MMS medium bore head is finding an intake that will not choke it back to stock cathedrial port flow. That means no plastic manifolds. Then you run into clearance issues with your hood and cowling. Money, more money, and more money. Trust me, I now have my cowling cut all the way to the windshield to fit the Holley Moduler High ram on my mildly ported L92 heads. First intake I found for my pocket cleaned up L92 heads that actually does not cut the flow down by 15 percent.

I do not understand why people put a head on that flows 340cfm and then an intake in front of it that cuts the flow back to 310?

Sinister_Z28

That makes sense. I dont really wanna reuse my ls1 top end cause of how much metal i have found in all the top end components. Last thing i wanna do is get all this back together and spin a bearing. So who makes a good metal intake and what injectors to fuel rails to use. Also what size cam can i run before i start having PTV clearance issues?

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Lets take a step back. I was under the impression you are on a budget but wanted to build a very strong foundation for future mods when it is more convenunt.

So on that premiss:

New L92 heads would cstyou about the same as rebuilding the LS1 heads, if they can be. Going to the L92 heads is a great improvement over the LS1 heads. They are a great price for the head. Really hard to beet for a budget build. Comiting to the LS3 style head and top end will dictate what piston relief you will have. This means if later on you decide to use some Mass heads or who evers heads in LS3 form you will be ready and you should not have to do anything to the bottom end to go there. The only draw back money wise to going to the L92/LS3 style head is you will have to run a LS3 style intake and fuel rail. Injectors are a wash because you will most likely need larger injectors do to the extra power you will make with the 402-408 ci over the stock LS1 displacement. To keep the budget happy I would put a stock LS3 intake on it. Think about it, a 6.2L stock cammed LS3 makes 430hp with the LS3 style heads from the factory. Your 6.6L will make a little more with the same cam. As for metal intakes, Edelbrok makes a nice Victor for it that is in my opinion a better intake then the fast. But you will need and elbow on top to put your TB on. Depending on what hod you have you may have clearance issues. The intake is about the same price as a stock LS3 intake but you will have to ad the cost of the elbow on top of that and make sure it will fit under your hood.

If money is not as tight as I persived, then yes the Fast intake is a little better then the stock LS3 intake. It will fit with no issues under your hood. It is expensive though.

As for cam, it should be the last thing you pick before the pistons are put into the engine. You will need to know what compression ratio you will be running, what head, what intake, what exhaust system, and most importantly the intended use of the vehical and at what RPM you want the power to come on and peak at.

PTV Clearance: Once you have decided on all this stuff, the engine builder can if need be clearance the pistons if the valves infact interfer with the pistons. There are alot of great cam grinds that with flat top pistons are know not to have an issue. Pat G is someone on here that is a great person to concult with on cam selection. Normally PTV clearance becomes an issue with domed pistons and or very high lift and duration cams. Most of the flat top pistons have enough valve releif to clear most normal picked street cams. Your builder will need to check the clearance when he is putting the engine together.

One more thing, the LS3 stuff takes a different bolt patern Throttle Body, usually the smallest TB people use on the LS3 stuff is 92mm. SO keep in mind you will need to get a different TB too.

If the budget and time is not an issue, check into the Mass Motor Sports Medium Bore LS3 head. Best LS3 head in my book, but be ready to pay for them.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Injector hiegth will be determind by which intake you run. Lots of people make fuel rails. Just make sure you get the right fuel rail for the intake you are going to use. Tell them what intake you will use when ordering them. Mass makes some fuel rails. I like thiers and Holleys fuel rails best because they are NOT NPT thread. The ends that go in them use O-Rings to seal. I forget what the fittings are called, ANSI I think. Edelbrock makes some, TSP offers them, FIC offers them.

Injector flow rate will depend on the max power you expect the engine to make. I bet Pat G will have a good idea what the power output for his cam and your engine will be. Get the cam from Pat G and then tell FIC what power you expect, they will hook you up with the right injectors for your combo and if you request the data they will give it to you so you can have it for your tune. The correct injector data makes the tuning go faster and will help your tuner get it right the first time.

Sinister_Z28

Once again i get great advice. As far as budget its probably tighter than most people's. However if there is a better intake than the Fast 102 for around the same price i would rather buy it the first time. Hate to ask a dumb question but what does FIC stand for cause i was looking for a them in the sponsor section and couldnt find em. Thanks.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Fuel Injector Connection. They are a sponsor here. Their number is 770-888-1662. Tell them Scott Graham sent you. Great guys. You will not be dissapointed.

There are trade offs on the intakes. There are really great ones but fitment is the real issue. The LS3 and the Fast will fit your car with no issues. The next step up would be a singal plane carb style EFI intake like the Edelbrock Victor series. But this is when fitment starts to become an issue. The intake will fit just fine but because the inlet flange is on top you have to put an elbow on it. Edelbrock makes a few different elbows. The only one Edelbrock makes that will fit with no clearence issue is the 110(100 something I cannot remember the exact degree off the top of my head) degree low profile. There are fabricated ones out there as well. I believe the most popular fabricated one is made by Aarons. A single plane carb style EFI intake with an elbow will flow better then the LS3 and Fast. The next step up is a Holley High Ram Modular, but it will require a ton of cutting and a different tall hood. Holley does have a low profile Modular intake but I have not heard great things on it. Next step up would be a fabricated intake, but you are looking at 3000 bucks and up for one as well as lead time.

I would sugest to consider due to fitment issues either the Stock LS3, the Fast, and the Victor with an elbow, with the fast intake being the most expensive but the victor being the best flowing.

Remember the higher the flow of the intake and heads usually means the peak torque will be higher in the RPM range as well as the peak HP being higher. Usually not an issue for a drag car, but can lead to a slugish street car. The long runners in the LS3 intake and the Fast intake will give you better bottom end torque, while the shorter runners in the Victor intake will raise the power band some. That said, the 4" stroke of the 402/408 will make great torque and make it happen lower in the rpm band then the 3.622 stroke of a stock crank. So with the 402/408 I would note be worried of hurting the low end power much with a short runner intake.

Price wise I would go with the Stock LS3 or a Victor with Elbow. I personaly feel the Fast intakes are not worth the high price when you can put a Victor that will out flow it on for less money.

Again, budget a side, please really think about what you intend to do with the car. You can build a 1000hp LS engine for your car, but its street manors, drivability, and fuel consumption will not be nice. There is give and take in everything. Use caution.

What are your HP goals?

What is the intended (90 percent of the time) use of the car going to be?

How much poor street manors are you willing to live with?

Also, the more power it makes the more likely you will destroy the trans, drive shaft, and the rear end.

The 4L60 is a joke of a transmition (I cannot remember if you have a standard trans or an auto sorry). There are things they can do to make it better but once you get over 600hp there is nothing you can do to make it really last. A season yes, but don't expect much more then that. For the price of Stage 3'ing a 4L60 you can have a 4L80 that with good clutches alone will live a long time behind 700hp (not counting the cost of a convertor or cross memeber).

The factory rear ends? Forget about them. They brake left and right with a stock LS1, sticky tires and a few 5000rpm clutch dumps. There is no way to make a the stock rear stay together (other then never hammering it with sticky tires) behind 600hp. So get ready to buy a $3000 + rear end that will handle it.

My definition of "Handling it" is not one season. It is 50,000+ miles and at least three seasons of track time.

Sinister_Z28

My hp goals are 700hp to the rear wheels sometime down the road. I understand with a monster living under the hood its street manners arent gonna be the best. The car will mainly be a street/ strip car so it will have to be able to idle and it has to be somewhat drivable at low speeds. But i dont mind losing some drivability. This car is a manual so i think it should hold up but i wont be puting sticky tires on it until i get a 9" rear on it.

Sinister_Z28

Just giving you guys an update. I pulled the trigger and bought a TMS iron 408. Along with LSA heads with upgraded valve springs and a custom cam from TMS as well. I also purchased a LS3 intake from GM for 370 bucks as well.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like a great combo. Now get ready to go have fun.

By the way, keep your head up in boot, it is a breeze. Watch full metal jacket. Alot the same except getting to shoot much. At least it was when I went back in 88.

Sinister_Z28

I greatly appreciate all your advice and patients Texas WS6 it has made this whole process a little easier. Now any guesses on power out puts.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

What compression ratio will you end up with those heads and your pistons?

We would need to know your cam specs to take a guess as well.

Sinister_Z28

Compression ratio is gonna be 11.2:1 on pump gas and the cam is a 113 LSA+4 and the duration is in the high 230's. Sorry for the vague info but i forgot to write down the exact specs. Its a custom grind.