what oil pump and timing chain should i run?
12-30-2012, 06:02 PM
#23
Rollmaster (which is now owned by JP) makes a hell of a double roller for the price. Heat treated on both crank and cam sprocket, pre-stretched JWIS chain, and torrington bearing. Most vendors have it for $130-140. I think the PN is 1160.
Double rollers are pretty much overkill, though. And unless you buy an oil pump designed for them or are willing to grind away at the pump and possibly front cover, a single is all you need. SLP has the custom Melling pump that clears and Synergy has a ported LS6 that's been clearanced to clear (don't know much else about it tho). That's all I know of.
With that said, I've ordered the SLP Pump and JP Double Roller kit.
Double rollers are pretty much overkill, though. And unless you buy an oil pump designed for them or are willing to grind away at the pump and possibly front cover, a single is all you need. SLP has the custom Melling pump that clears and Synergy has a ported LS6 that's been clearanced to clear (don't know much else about it tho). That's all I know of.
With that said, I've ordered the SLP Pump and JP Double Roller kit.
12-30-2012, 09:03 PM
#26
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id really like the billet set with the bearing. seems like good insurance.
12-30-2012, 10:03 PM
#27
You aren't saving much money tho. The reason a lot of LS2 chains have a lot of slack is they could use new GM sprockets as well, especially if you have a lot of miles on them.
TSP sells the sprockets and LS2 chain for $110. Just a new GMPP LS6 pump is 105ish.
So $215 for stock parts vs $256 for a higher volume Melling pump clearanced for use with a double chain and a double roller with adjustable billet gears and torrington bearing. Not sure saving $40 is that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things especially if you want to have more security than the stock GM parts afford?
TSP sells the sprockets and LS2 chain for $110. Just a new GMPP LS6 pump is 105ish.
So $215 for stock parts vs $256 for a higher volume Melling pump clearanced for use with a double chain and a double roller with adjustable billet gears and torrington bearing. Not sure saving $40 is that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things especially if you want to have more security than the stock GM parts afford?
12-31-2012, 08:24 AM
#29
The JP Performance Billet Gear set (Double) is only 89.00 and a LS2 timing chain is right around $45.00, so it's really not that much more expensive. Does having the JP Performance Billet Gear Set (Double) make it easier to degree the cam? Is it adjustable?
12-31-2012, 02:04 PM
#36
I know Predator-Z is a big fan of the Cloyes Hex-A-Just or however you spell it.... That's what he recommended to me when I was all hell bent on my cam install being PERFECT.
I opted for the LS2HD chain w/ billet gears (adjustable crank keyway) from Yank though. Apparently they're still out of stock though....
I opted for the LS2HD chain w/ billet gears (adjustable crank keyway) from Yank though. Apparently they're still out of stock though....
12-31-2012, 02:16 PM
#37
The main thing I have learned from my years of modifying cars, is the closest to stock you can run something while meeting the requirements you have is the best option 100% of the time. I run an LS2 timing chain and LS6 oil pump, and would NOT run the aftermarket options even if they cost less. GM designs their parts to last much longer than most aftermarket companies, and since most of us here are building street cars that occasionally are tracked, but do many WOT pulls, etc. it just makes sense to build it for longevity. I have seen time and time again, the double roller timing chains fail (whether the chain snaps or the gears break) for whatever reason, and aftermarket oil pumps fail and take out entire motors because of it - not worth the risk IMO. Regardless, good luck with your build.
12-31-2012, 02:38 PM
#38
The main thing I have learned from my years of modifying cars, is the closest to stock you can run something while meeting the requirements you have is the best option 100% of the time. I run an LS2 timing chain and LS6 oil pump, and would NOT run the aftermarket options even if they cost less. GM designs their parts to last much longer than most aftermarket companies, and since most of us here are building street cars that occasionally are tracked, but do many WOT pulls, etc. it just makes sense to build it for longevity. I have seen time and time again, the double roller timing chains fail (whether the chain snaps or the gears break) for whatever reason, and aftermarket oil pumps fail and take out entire motors because of it - not worth the risk IMO. Regardless, good luck with your build.
12-31-2012, 03:04 PM
#39
Also, on topic for the oil pump. It is not the fact that the oil pump will be 'bad/broken' at a low mileage, its the fact that they don't flow enough in the high(er) RPMs. Oil starvation is the best way to destroy any lubricated piece of machinery, specifically in this application: a motor. With the higher RPMs you will be spinning to, you want more oil to flow at those higher levels. Definitely NOT a place I would cheap out on; added insurance IMO. Think of it this way, if you blow your motor due to poor lubrication, wouldn't you have rather spent the ~100 bucks now than the few thousand you will have to down the road, as well as all the extra work to fix it?
12-31-2012, 03:28 PM
#40
The LS2 timing chain is the chain I run in my setup and same with the chain all the locals run - have never heard of a failure. One of the things a lot of people don't think is a problem which actually causes a cyclic load on the timing chain is if you have a tight LSA cam and a low idle speed - the motor speeds up and slows down frequently and actually stresses the timing chain significantly during that period. One way to battle that is to raise idle speed, but then you lose the lope. With that said, I am not worried one bit about mine snapping and I am still at 800RPM idle speed. My buddy runs one with his T-Rex setup and even spins his motor to 7300 RPM and his is doing just fine as well.
Also, on topic for the oil pump. It is not the fact that the oil pump will be 'bad/broken' at a low mileage, its the fact that they don't flow enough in the high(er) RPMs. Oil starvation is the best way to destroy any lubricated piece of machinery, specifically in this application: a motor. With the higher RPMs you will be spinning to, you want more oil to flow at those higher levels. Definitely NOT a place I would cheap out on; added insurance IMO. Think of it this way, if you blow your motor due to poor lubrication, wouldn't you have rather spent the ~100 bucks now than the few thousand you will have to down the road, as well as all the extra work to fix it?
Also, on topic for the oil pump. It is not the fact that the oil pump will be 'bad/broken' at a low mileage, its the fact that they don't flow enough in the high(er) RPMs. Oil starvation is the best way to destroy any lubricated piece of machinery, specifically in this application: a motor. With the higher RPMs you will be spinning to, you want more oil to flow at those higher levels. Definitely NOT a place I would cheap out on; added insurance IMO. Think of it this way, if you blow your motor due to poor lubrication, wouldn't you have rather spent the ~100 bucks now than the few thousand you will have to down the road, as well as all the extra work to fix it?
I guess I'll just get the LS2 timing chain then and be done with it. Great point regarding the oil pump. With that said, what oil pump would you recommend for me? My setup is nothing drastic; AFR heads, 22*/23* 111 LSA cam and 11:1 compression.