I got a new engine!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeeeehaaaaaa!!!!!
04-16-2004, 12:49 PM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got a new engine!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeeeehaaaaaa!!!!! Apparently when they went back and checked the cylinder bore, the TSB says to check from top to bottom and they said one of my cylinders was way out of spec, so they ordered a BRAND NEW LS1 engine with a 3 year/50,000 mile warranty!!! Party time!!!!!!!!
For people who think piston slap doesn't cause a problem.....wrong!!!!
Alllllllrighty then!!!!!!!!!!!
For people who think piston slap doesn't cause a problem.....wrong!!!!
Alllllllrighty then!!!!!!!!!!!
04-16-2004, 01:03 PM
#3
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks! And now I wonder...if I was running 306 RWHP in an A4 with a bad engine, how much more it will be now? Dang, and I thought this thing was already fast. All those Mustangs I beat last year at the drags was with a BAD ENGINE!!! hahahahaha that's funny....
04-16-2004, 01:24 PM
#6
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As I have said before, my oil consumption started from when I bought it last spring. Could the previous owner have damaged it? Maybe. But this is a known problem with an existing TSB and it's being replaced accordingly. If you don't like that, go whine somewhere else and take your fraud and stick it. I'm getting a new engine!!!
04-16-2004, 01:29 PM
#7
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They also said they would switch my new MSD spark plug wires over to the new engine for me too after they checked them out. They actually measured my MSD wires and replaced the new stock ones for me. Now how cool is that???
Trending Topics
04-16-2004, 03:35 PM
#9
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In no certain order:
Oil consumption averaged 1 1/2 to 2 quarts every 3,000 miles. Driving across the US last summer to VA I used 3 quarts in 2,600 miles. Most of the time, the M6's have problems because of the revving, so I knew if my A4 lost that much driving at cruise for 2,600 miles, I had problems. The 2 tests they did recently I lost 1 quart in 1,800 miles and the second test I lost 1 1/4 quarts in 1,400. I did a dyno tune during the last test, so that made it lose more.
Rocker arm/lifter noise. Heard it from when I bought it last Spring. I could hear it plainly from inside the car when I would pull out, even more outside with the hood up. Around 1,300 rpms was the loudest.
Piston slap. At idle I never could hear it too much, but when I would be under the hood and rev it to around 2,000 rpms, I could hear a lower pitched "clunk" in the bottom of the motor.
As for tuning, even though we tried leaning out the A/F all the way with Predator, and even more with a custum Predator tune, the A/F was always 12.1 at WOT. Before WOT, it was the normal 14.7. Even after the custom tune, it even went down to 11.0. We leaned it out again and only got to 12.1. Now we think that oil burning was causing the computer to readjust and we were fighting a losing battle. It didn't make sense at the time, but now it does after the problem was found.
After I first bought it, I took it to Capitol Pontiac in San Jose, CA and the manager there gave me every excuse in the world not to work on it:
"Where did you buy it?" (why does it matter?)
"I don't hear anything"
"I can barely hear it"
"That's the roller rockers"
"That's rocker arm noise coming thru the headers"
"If we tear into it, you'll have to do without your car for awhile"
"You really don't want us to tear into it, do you?"
"It's better to let it blow up and get a new one"
"I'll have to check with my regional manager"
Also when I first bought it, there was a spot on the deck lid where the paint was thin and I could see primer thu the clear, about 4-5 inches in diameter. He gave me the same run around on that. I then took it to Pearson Pontiac in Sunnyvale, and they were a little easier to work with. They took my car in asap to fix the paint (yes it was that obvious), but wouldn't look into the engine unless I had ALL the service records of the car, even before I owned it!! Well, I did track them down (just 2 other dealerships), but they still wouldn't work on it. They also replaced my front pinion bearing and seal last spring twice (because after the first time it had noise in the rear) and the second time, it still had whining noise, but he blamed it on the new gears needed to "mesh" they put in...but the noise wasn't there before until they replaced the pinion bearing and seal, so that confused me.
Anyway, where the car is now is where I bought it. Not only did they do the work they are doing now, but they said they could here rear end noise still (I guess I got use to it?) and after the engine swap, they are going to look into the rear. These guys also replaced my bad 02 sensors under warranty last year, even though it has headers!! They said since it had headers when they sold it, they wouldn't charge me. Now these guys know how to take care of people.
If anyone is ever in the Sacramento, CA area, they are Reliable Pontiac in Roseville, CA. After they are done and I have the engine broken in and I go back for an oil change, I think I will buy the service dept. pizza for lunch that day. Heck, I may buy everyone's lunch as they have all been great, from the service to the extended warranty dude to the salesman.
Oil consumption averaged 1 1/2 to 2 quarts every 3,000 miles. Driving across the US last summer to VA I used 3 quarts in 2,600 miles. Most of the time, the M6's have problems because of the revving, so I knew if my A4 lost that much driving at cruise for 2,600 miles, I had problems. The 2 tests they did recently I lost 1 quart in 1,800 miles and the second test I lost 1 1/4 quarts in 1,400. I did a dyno tune during the last test, so that made it lose more.
Rocker arm/lifter noise. Heard it from when I bought it last Spring. I could hear it plainly from inside the car when I would pull out, even more outside with the hood up. Around 1,300 rpms was the loudest.
Piston slap. At idle I never could hear it too much, but when I would be under the hood and rev it to around 2,000 rpms, I could hear a lower pitched "clunk" in the bottom of the motor.
As for tuning, even though we tried leaning out the A/F all the way with Predator, and even more with a custum Predator tune, the A/F was always 12.1 at WOT. Before WOT, it was the normal 14.7. Even after the custom tune, it even went down to 11.0. We leaned it out again and only got to 12.1. Now we think that oil burning was causing the computer to readjust and we were fighting a losing battle. It didn't make sense at the time, but now it does after the problem was found.
After I first bought it, I took it to Capitol Pontiac in San Jose, CA and the manager there gave me every excuse in the world not to work on it:
"Where did you buy it?" (why does it matter?)
"I don't hear anything"
"I can barely hear it"
"That's the roller rockers"
"That's rocker arm noise coming thru the headers"
"If we tear into it, you'll have to do without your car for awhile"
"You really don't want us to tear into it, do you?"
"It's better to let it blow up and get a new one"
"I'll have to check with my regional manager"
Also when I first bought it, there was a spot on the deck lid where the paint was thin and I could see primer thu the clear, about 4-5 inches in diameter. He gave me the same run around on that. I then took it to Pearson Pontiac in Sunnyvale, and they were a little easier to work with. They took my car in asap to fix the paint (yes it was that obvious), but wouldn't look into the engine unless I had ALL the service records of the car, even before I owned it!! Well, I did track them down (just 2 other dealerships), but they still wouldn't work on it. They also replaced my front pinion bearing and seal last spring twice (because after the first time it had noise in the rear) and the second time, it still had whining noise, but he blamed it on the new gears needed to "mesh" they put in...but the noise wasn't there before until they replaced the pinion bearing and seal, so that confused me.
Anyway, where the car is now is where I bought it. Not only did they do the work they are doing now, but they said they could here rear end noise still (I guess I got use to it?) and after the engine swap, they are going to look into the rear. These guys also replaced my bad 02 sensors under warranty last year, even though it has headers!! They said since it had headers when they sold it, they wouldn't charge me. Now these guys know how to take care of people.
If anyone is ever in the Sacramento, CA area, they are Reliable Pontiac in Roseville, CA. After they are done and I have the engine broken in and I go back for an oil change, I think I will buy the service dept. pizza for lunch that day. Heck, I may buy everyone's lunch as they have all been great, from the service to the extended warranty dude to the salesman.
04-17-2004, 08:05 AM
#12
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by destroyerSS
Wait till you open your hood and see your brand new H.O. 6 cylinder sittin pretty under the hood 
As for oil, I'm going to stick with the Mobil 1 Syn 5w30 and let the dealerships change it. It may be extra money, and I've said it before, but at least if there's any doubt or issuewith the service and something happens...it's all on them.
04-17-2004, 11:13 AM
#13
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also always wondered why I would consistently get 14.2's in a 1/4. Now I have a pretty good idea. Heck, I thought this car was quick before. I can't wait to see what it does now.
"I pity the fool the lines up beside me now"
"I pity the fool the lines up beside me now"
04-17-2004, 03:09 PM
#14
Normally a loose motor will make more power than a tight one. But if it was using that much oil on the highway, the plugs may have been fouled from all the oil
My '01 ran a 12.97@108.4 100% stock except for '99 Firehawk wheels and 275/40/17 Nitto 555RII tires on all four. It was always stong, and I suspect that is because it was loose. That also helps expain the rod bearing I spun on a road course. Of course I may have stretched a rod bolt, I was spinning the motor pretty high for long periods of time.
Good luck with the fools.
My '01 ran a 12.97@108.4 100% stock except for '99 Firehawk wheels and 275/40/17 Nitto 555RII tires on all four. It was always stong, and I suspect that is because it was loose. That also helps expain the rod bearing I spun on a road course. Of course I may have stretched a rod bolt, I was spinning the motor pretty high for long periods of time.
Good luck with the fools.
04-17-2004, 03:17 PM
#15
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Apparently you didn't read. It was using so much oil on the highway because 3 pistons had oil ring grooves lined up and one of my cylinder bores were way out of spec., in addition to the plugs fouling as a result. That's why the new engine. I don't consider an engine like that to be "loose" and create more HP. I consider it to be defective from the day I bought it, as those problems were there and documented from day one.
The only fool is the one who doesn't exercise his rights under warranty for damage that existed when he bought the car and is common in the certain vehicles.
The only fool is the one who doesn't exercise his rights under warranty for damage that existed when he bought the car and is common in the certain vehicles.
04-20-2004, 11:56 AM
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: I can drive my F-body in Winter!
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kiss guy I am going though the EXACT same problem.. unfortuantely I have a very early 2002 and that TSB does not cover 2002's 
here is all that I have gone through.. I plan on starting an oil watch, I have an m-6 , I burn 1-3+ quarts every 3000 miles... I am pickin the car up from the dealer about the oil consumption .. this is my 4th time it has been at the dealer for this.. they state that there is no TSB that applies to my issues, except # 01-06-01-011a , which is just a guideline to define what is normal ....
To quote myself:
[quote]
My issue ise my hawk is an early 2002 and it burns oil.. I have consistently birnd between 1-3 k every 3000 miles.. I see part of the problem is the PCV lets oil through,.. I have even wnet as far as updating the PCV valve to the newer one... I have taken the car to the dealer on multiple occasions. for piston slap, and multiple dealers, as mine is there at startup (it started around 4000 miles on the motor) and goes away after it warms up.. I attribute this to different expansion rates of the different metals of the LS1 as one metal heats faster than another... I run 5-W30 mobile 1 since 1000 miles
I went as far as to do an oil watch.. but everytime I did one.. I needed to add 1 quart or 2 in the middle of a road trip thus invalidating the oil watch
my warrantee (not extended one) is ready to expire in august, what can I do? (besides converting to ls6 pcv system and a catch-can to help reduce oil into the intake)
given I want to eventually mod the car. but is there any way I can tell if this engine will give me trouble down the long haul?
The dealers comments on multiple occasions despite me complaining have been "all LS1's slap and it is normal for LS1's to burn 1 -1.5 quarts of oil"
.
.
.
This is what I found in the past.. both of these the dealer said did not apply to my car ??? I stilll have to perform an oil watch
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption (Replace Rings)
#01-06-01-023
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption (Replace Rings)
1999-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1999-2001 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VINs G, S -- RPOs LS1, LS6)
Condition Some owners may comment on higher than expected oil consumption.
When checked, the oil consumption could be in the range of 400-600 miles per quart (700-1000 km/L).
Cause
The cause for this condition may be an interaction between the piston rings and the cylinder bore in vehicles that are operated at higher RPMs -- typically
manual transmission vehicles driven in a manner where the engine is frequently
or consistently operating at greater than 3200 RPM.
Correction A new set of piston rings is currently available through GMSPO. The
new rings are part of a complete piston ring kit. Install only the number 2
compression
ring and the oil expander ring from the piston ring kit. All other rings in the piston ring kit should be discarded. The original number 1 compression ring and
the oil ring rails should be re-used in their original positions on the piston. All pistons should be used in the same cylinder bore.
Important
Do not dress or hone the cylinder bore. Nothing should be done to
change the bore finish for this condition. Changing the bore finish may aggravate
the condition.
Refer to the Unit Repair Manual for appropriate ring removal and
replacement procedure.
The number 1 compression ring and the upper and lower oil expander
rails are re-used because they are already broken in for the bore that they are
in. The
new number 2 compression ring is made with a very sharp edge that
will break in
quickly.
Changing only the piston rings noted, with no change in driving style,
should
change oil consumption to an acceptable level. Changes in driving
style that
reduce the amount of time spent at higher RPMs will also positively
effect oil
consumption.
In addition to the standard size piston ring kit listed below, a 0.25
mm
oversized piston ring kit is available. The oversized piston ring kit
should
only be used in those rare instances where the cylinder bore size has
been
machined larger to accommodate the 0.25 mm oversized piston rings.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
88894299
Ring Kit, Piston
8
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J1307
Piston, Rod and/or Rings -- Replace, Both Banks
Use Published Labor Time
TSB #02-06-01-038
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.
Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(F and Y Cars)
1
12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(C/K Trucks)
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Usage
Labor Time
J1060
Pickup Tube and Screen - Replace
F Car
3.7 hrs
Y Car
4.3 hrs
.
.
.
Having them look at why in 1800 miles I have burned 1.5 quarts of oil this is the 3rd or 4th time that I have taken it in for this exact same reason.. I want at least a ring job performed or better yet a new engine .. 3 quarts+ every 3000 miles is not normal...
and having them look at my power steering pump and why has it gotten louder and louder over the past year...
and having them do my differential fluid/change diff covers to one with the drain plug in it ...
and replace my wipers ($26) as the blade just fell off (age and lack of use??? )
.
.
.
Just got a call ... absolutely no TSB relates to my problem... it ends up that I have to do the oil check every 1000 miles, and report it to them it seems the max acceptable level ovf burning oil is 1 quart every 2000 miles
the dealer cannot help me until the problem is properly documented, by their standards this is step one, so in short, expect me to do some extra milage in the car before august rain or shine... I gotta prove , through documentation, that this engine is burning oil more than GM's official maximum accepted level... dealer cannot help me period, until then as that is what GM wants before giving the dealer $$$ to cover a tear down and mesure everything
also nothing noted about the PS pump that the tecks can see..
here is all that I have gone through.. I plan on starting an oil watch, I have an m-6 , I burn 1-3+ quarts every 3000 miles... I am pickin the car up from the dealer about the oil consumption .. this is my 4th time it has been at the dealer for this.. they state that there is no TSB that applies to my issues, except # 01-06-01-011a , which is just a guideline to define what is normal ....
To quote myself:
[quote]
My issue ise my hawk is an early 2002 and it burns oil.. I have consistently birnd between 1-3 k every 3000 miles.. I see part of the problem is the PCV lets oil through,.. I have even wnet as far as updating the PCV valve to the newer one... I have taken the car to the dealer on multiple occasions. for piston slap, and multiple dealers, as mine is there at startup (it started around 4000 miles on the motor) and goes away after it warms up.. I attribute this to different expansion rates of the different metals of the LS1 as one metal heats faster than another... I run 5-W30 mobile 1 since 1000 miles
I went as far as to do an oil watch.. but everytime I did one.. I needed to add 1 quart or 2 in the middle of a road trip thus invalidating the oil watch
my warrantee (not extended one) is ready to expire in august, what can I do? (besides converting to ls6 pcv system and a catch-can to help reduce oil into the intake)
given I want to eventually mod the car. but is there any way I can tell if this engine will give me trouble down the long haul?
The dealers comments on multiple occasions despite me complaining have been "all LS1's slap and it is normal for LS1's to burn 1 -1.5 quarts of oil"
.
.
.
This is what I found in the past.. both of these the dealer said did not apply to my car ??? I stilll have to perform an oil watch
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption (Replace Rings)
#01-06-01-023
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption (Replace Rings)
1999-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1999-2001 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VINs G, S -- RPOs LS1, LS6)
Condition Some owners may comment on higher than expected oil consumption.
When checked, the oil consumption could be in the range of 400-600 miles per quart (700-1000 km/L).
Cause
The cause for this condition may be an interaction between the piston rings and the cylinder bore in vehicles that are operated at higher RPMs -- typically
manual transmission vehicles driven in a manner where the engine is frequently
or consistently operating at greater than 3200 RPM.
Correction A new set of piston rings is currently available through GMSPO. The
new rings are part of a complete piston ring kit. Install only the number 2
compression
ring and the oil expander ring from the piston ring kit. All other rings in the piston ring kit should be discarded. The original number 1 compression ring and
the oil ring rails should be re-used in their original positions on the piston. All pistons should be used in the same cylinder bore.
Important
Do not dress or hone the cylinder bore. Nothing should be done to
change the bore finish for this condition. Changing the bore finish may aggravate
the condition.
Refer to the Unit Repair Manual for appropriate ring removal and
replacement procedure.
The number 1 compression ring and the upper and lower oil expander
rails are re-used because they are already broken in for the bore that they are
in. The
new number 2 compression ring is made with a very sharp edge that
will break in
quickly.
Changing only the piston rings noted, with no change in driving style,
should
change oil consumption to an acceptable level. Changes in driving
style that
reduce the amount of time spent at higher RPMs will also positively
effect oil
consumption.
In addition to the standard size piston ring kit listed below, a 0.25
mm
oversized piston ring kit is available. The oversized piston ring kit
should
only be used in those rare instances where the cylinder bore size has
been
machined larger to accommodate the 0.25 mm oversized piston rings.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
88894299
Ring Kit, Piston
8
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J1307
Piston, Rod and/or Rings -- Replace, Both Banks
Use Published Labor Time
TSB #02-06-01-038
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.
Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(F and Y Cars)
1
12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(C/K Trucks)
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Usage
Labor Time
J1060
Pickup Tube and Screen - Replace
F Car
3.7 hrs
Y Car
4.3 hrs
.
.
.
Having them look at why in 1800 miles I have burned 1.5 quarts of oil this is the 3rd or 4th time that I have taken it in for this exact same reason.. I want at least a ring job performed or better yet a new engine .. 3 quarts+ every 3000 miles is not normal...
and having them look at my power steering pump and why has it gotten louder and louder over the past year...
and having them do my differential fluid/change diff covers to one with the drain plug in it ...
and replace my wipers ($26) as the blade just fell off (age and lack of use??? )
.
.
.
Just got a call ... absolutely no TSB relates to my problem... it ends up that I have to do the oil check every 1000 miles, and report it to them it seems the max acceptable level ovf burning oil is 1 quart every 2000 miles
the dealer cannot help me until the problem is properly documented, by their standards this is step one, so in short, expect me to do some extra milage in the car before august rain or shine... I gotta prove , through documentation, that this engine is burning oil more than GM's official maximum accepted level... dealer cannot help me period, until then as that is what GM wants before giving the dealer $$$ to cover a tear down and mesure everything
also nothing noted about the PS pump that the tecks can see..
04-20-2004, 09:18 PM
#20
Originally Posted by The Kiss Guy
Anyway, where the car is now is where I bought it. Not only did they do the work they are doing now, but they said they could here rear end noise still (I guess I got use to it?) and after the engine swap, they are going to look into the rear. These guys also replaced my bad 02 sensors under warranty last year, even though it has headers!! They said since it had headers when they sold it, they wouldn't charge me. Now these guys know how to take care of people.
If anyone is ever in the Sacramento, CA area, they are Reliable Pontiac in Roseville, CA. After they are done and I have the engine broken in and I go back for an oil change, I think I will buy the service dept. pizza for lunch that day. Heck, I may buy everyone's lunch as they have all been great, from the service to the extended warranty dude to the salesman.
If anyone is ever in the Sacramento, CA area, they are Reliable Pontiac in Roseville, CA. After they are done and I have the engine broken in and I go back for an oil change, I think I will buy the service dept. pizza for lunch that day. Heck, I may buy everyone's lunch as they have all been great, from the service to the extended warranty dude to the salesman.