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Had this one too. I'm trying to track down a vibration at 60. I thought it could be the pinion angle, but it feels like it might be one of the wheels out of balance. Agh.
I'm sure you know this already but a quick gut check on vibration sources:
At 60 mph, your wheel vibrations would be roughly 14-17 per second, which means you feel each individual pulse. Your driveline, depending on gearing, will be 3.5-4x more, or roughly 55-60 hz which is in the range of hearing.
If you can hear a low frequency drone filling the car while the vibration is there, it's driveline. If not, and you can feel the pulses one at a time, it's either a wheel or something like a bent axle.
Took me forever to get that right. I measure the engine/trans/crank centerline off the damper. So, for example, 4 degrees down. Then, I measure the yoke side bearing cap angle using a socket as a spacer. Say for example 2 degrees. Then, make adjustments to get them parallel. Should be close. Then make small adjustments. Typically going slightly negative works.
I started at 6 degrees on the damper and 3 degrees on the yoke, and shook like a wet dog. Shimmed up the trans to get to 4, which also got the rear to 4, and it was better. I call this zero pinion angle - parallel. Then, I ended up at 4.2 on the crank and 3.7 on the yoke for what I call -0.5 degrees and very smooth ride.
Had this one too. I'm trying to track down a vibration at 60. I thought it could be the pinion angle, but it feels like it might be one of the wheels out of balance. Agh.
Pinion angle vibration is obvious. One sign is that the vibration changes intensity when your rear suspension is loaded/unloaded. Try driving over bumps and listen. Definitely get the wheel balance checked to at least eliminate that variable.
Just an update for folks. ABS module went out, caused the TPS wiring to go apeshit. So until I troubleshooted it and found the issue, the car was down. It's back up and running well. I have some tweaking with the tune I'm doing with Lorentz from LSX Power Tuning. Then I plan to take to the 1/8 track about 40 miles away and then the dyno. So numbers soon.
I also have some other things I've purchased/are purchasing, so I'll update the thread with some of the upgrades in due time...
Ahhhh the old "DOUBLE MY CUBES". Method
NICE
Running corn this time around so you can go 14 pounds or so ??
Man I'd really hate to see that whip with 700 street able at the tire.
How will you sleep at night Jake
-ATI 1TE100-SCI D-1SC Supercharger Kit from Bob@Brutespeed with Twin 4.5 Intercoolers (Don't want to hack up my front clip)
-Aster Bracket
-Reuse my LS1 Block
-K1 Forged 3.622 Stroke with LME Billet 24X Reluctor
-Compstar 6.125" Forged Rods
-Wiseco 3.903" Forged Pistons with 11cc Dish (~9.6:1 CR)
-Clevite H-Series Bearings
-ARP Main Studs
-Keep my TEA LS6 Heads (which use Hollow-stem LS3 valves) 62cc Chambers and PAC 1904 Springs (may swap to BTR springs)
-GM LS9 Head Gaskets
-BTR LS3 Supercharger Cam 227/244 .612/.595 115+5 Cam (Tooley recommended)
-ID1000s Injectors, Squash Dual Pump kit with DW200 Pumps, Nasty Stage 3 Fuel Line Kit with -8AN/-6AN Lines
-Alkyinjection Methanol Injection Kit with Twin M10 Nozzles
-GM 2-Bar MAP Sensor (SD Tune)
-Upgrade my CircleD 4000 to a Triple Disk 4C 3600 Stall (WOT Lockup)
-Fab 9" with 3.50 Gears (So I don't run out of gear)
-Swap Comp Trunions to Straub Trunions
-Keep my Johnson Short Travel Lifters (which are better in a supercharged application), Manton 11/32 Pushrods, Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Set, Ported LS4 Pump, and FLT Level 6 Trans
-Moroso F-Body Oil Pan and Milodon Remote Oil Filter Kit
Plans are still a go. I did my cam swap and finally got the car out and started tuning. Still idles great. Drives way better than before. I'll post some videos of it tomorrow.
Yeah, D1 for now. I'm going to run it on the stock shortblock... keep it under 700rwhp. So I'll probably do a Lonnie's Double Pump and 80lbs injectors or maybe the ID1000s and pulley it for ~10ish PSI. With 11.2:1 CR, I don't want to go much higher. But with the big FMIC and possible meth, it should still be pretty safe.
Once the bottom end lets go, I'll rebuild it and pulley it for 18-19psi and see how far the D1 can go. Run that for a while and eventually go with an F1C.
In for vids! Good to hear you're moving along. D1 is a fun blower and real strong at 10psi. Your car should run great, especially with the high compression. Wish I would've upped mine a little more for the new setup but maybe later. I was at 9.0:1 and I'm at 10.0:1 now. I'm going to run e85 mostly and VP c85 at the track. Should be fun. Congrats on getting the car running again.
Been driving the car around a lot lately. I have my Go Pro sitting here and still plan to take some vids here soon.
I've been piecing together maybe the next part of the build:
Strange S60 with S-Trac and 3.54 Gears
PST 3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft (shorter than my current)
Straub Bronze Bushing LS Trunnion Kit
Moroso 21150 F-Body Street/Strip Oil Pan Kit
Milodon 21575 LS Gen III Oil Filter Relocation Kit
Strano Wilwood 4-Piston Brake Kit w/12.8-inch StopTech Slotted Rotors
Kurt Urban Vapor Vent System
and then either of the following:
ATI 1TE100-SCI Kit with D-1SC, Aster Bracket & FMIC Kit
Alkycontrol Methanol Injection Kit w/Twin M15 Nozzles
CircleD 4C 3600 Stall Triple Disk Converter
3.4" Upper Pulley ~ 17psi and 750-800rwhp with the meth
-or-
Huron Speed V3 A/C T4 Single Turbo Kit
Turbonetics Billet 7575 BB Turbo w/.96 a/r
Turbosmart Hyper-Gate 45 Wastegate
Turbosmart Race-Port 50mm BOV
PA Racing Turbo Style K-Member
Alkycontrol Methanol Injection Kit w/Twin M15 Nozzles
CircleD 3B 3400 Stall Triple Disk Converter
Swap from 227/244 Cam to LJMS Stage II Turbo Cam 226/231 .605"/.598" 113+4 LSA
Removal of Kooks Exhaust
~16-17psi and 800rwhp goal
And fuel system for either:
Nasty Performance F-Body Stage 3 -8/-6AN Line Kit w/Billet Fuel Rails for FAST 102
Bosch 95lbs Fuel Injectors
Squash Dual Walbro 450 Fuel Pump Kit
Eventually, I'd move to a forged L33 347 with around 9.7:1 and the LS9 gaskets using the TEA Heads.
The Huron kit is less expensive... but would require me to change more things. And may be a tough fit. But looks excellent.
Last edited by JakeFusion; Jan 26, 2017 at 06:56 PM.
My vote is for snail power. No belt no keyways or pulleys. Just hot air driven muffler type ****. I'm guessing 9-10 pounds would approach the 700 range. Prolly need 14 or so to push 800 but then the stock short becomes a "will pop" instead of a "may pop"......
I'd probably keep the Duals... when I talked to Huron Speed about it, they said fab up a reverse Y-Pipe and run from the dp to the duals. That would definitely quiet down the car. It sounds awesome when idling and WOT. But just cruising around it's a huge pain in the ***.
Putting a turbo in front of it... would definitely tame it. Open DP is probably too much. But through two 3" bullets would sound fine and not lose any flow. The centri would just put even more noise through the setup (although - the car is setup to run it right now with the proper cam and exhaust setup).
I don't think my cam is ideal for a turbo. Designed for a Centri... but the LS9 cam is a 211/230... same split. And it works fine in turbo cars. So I might try at lower boost. Then when the shortblock pops, go forged and up the wick... and go with a more appropriate turbo cam.
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