Finally pulling the trigger on parts!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Oil pressure was higher with the LS30.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
Oil pressure was higher with the LS30.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
I concur. I've been using Joe Gibbs LS30 for many years now, and my oil pressure has been higher with it than any other oil I've used. I love the stuff.
Yeah thats twice as much as the VR1 oil but probably worth it. Id like to just break everything down and forge it first, i would hate to hurt the motor. Thats the main thing stopping me from just slappong a d1 on it now. I just dont want to do it...lol.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Well I'm enjoying the car now with the 3.73s in there. So that's helping a lot.
Going to a tighter 3600 stall would make it even more streetable. So that's probably next on my list. But the 4000 stall/373 combo is a road terror. And this cam pulls hard as **** upto 7k but drives pretty damn nice. So overall, it's a good setup. So I'm happy to take my time on putting together the next setup...
Going to a tighter 3600 stall would make it even more streetable. So that's probably next on my list. But the 4000 stall/373 combo is a road terror. And this cam pulls hard as **** upto 7k but drives pretty damn nice. So overall, it's a good setup. So I'm happy to take my time on putting together the next setup...
When I did the rear with 3.90s it definitely made the car more fun to drive, just woke everything up more. I've had my setup for 5 years now and it's a nice street car. Really no problems besides the pesky TB idle crap. But I'm ready for 650 rwhp.
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