Finally pulling the trigger on parts!
04-26-2017, 01:24 PM
#1141
Oil pressure was higher with the LS30.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
04-26-2017, 01:34 PM
#1142
Oil pressure was higher with the LS30.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
Forge once I spin a bearing, bend a rod, or melt a ringland... whichever comes first. At that point, I'll send the TEA heads out to polish/soften the chambers and build my stock block (unless a rod goes through it).
I'm going to do Molnar Turbo rods and Diamond -8.6cc Dished pistons. I'm going to talk to Molnar too about doing a forged 3.622" - they list the part number for the stock stroke but don't carry on their website. So it might be a special order. If so, I'd just have them not do the gundrilling on the #1 main to strengthen the snout for the Procharger.
I concur. I've been using Joe Gibbs LS30 for many years now, and my oil pressure has been higher with it than any other oil I've used. I love the stuff.
04-26-2017, 03:40 PM
#1144
Yeah thats twice as much as the VR1 oil but probably worth it. Id like to just break everything down and forge it first, i would hate to hurt the motor. Thats the main thing stopping me from just slappong a d1 on it now. I just dont want to do it...lol.
04-26-2017, 04:12 PM
#1145
Well I'm enjoying the car now with the 3.73s in there. So that's helping a lot.
Going to a tighter 3600 stall would make it even more streetable. So that's probably next on my list. But the 4000 stall/373 combo is a road terror. And this cam pulls hard as **** upto 7k but drives pretty damn nice. So overall, it's a good setup. So I'm happy to take my time on putting together the next setup...
Going to a tighter 3600 stall would make it even more streetable. So that's probably next on my list. But the 4000 stall/373 combo is a road terror. And this cam pulls hard as **** upto 7k but drives pretty damn nice. So overall, it's a good setup. So I'm happy to take my time on putting together the next setup...
02-14-2019, 12:06 PM
#1149
10 Second Club
Very nice!
02-14-2019, 05:42 PM
#1155
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So you gave your thread CPR, eh? 
02-14-2019, 07:22 PM
#1157
TECH Senior Member
