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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 06:11 PM
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Default swapping valve springs

swapped valve springs on my 5.3 today. On one cylinder, i heard air getting pass the intake and exhaust valves
I sprayed brake parts cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports I could see the cleaner bubble around the edge of the valves. The valves didnt drop while i changed springs plus the crank was difficult to turn with the air hose pressurizing the cyl.

Can someone tell me what is going with my valves or head?

Last edited by slicpartna; Feb 26, 2013 at 06:39 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Congrats sounds to me like you have some bent valves. That slight hardness to turn was the ever so slight bend or deformation to the valves is my bet.

Been there done that , good luck.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
Congrats sounds to me like you have some bent valves. That slight hardness to turn was the ever so slight bend or deformation to the valves is my bet.

Been there done that , good luck.
Agreed, I'd put my money on bent valves
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 08:44 AM
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None of this makes sense. Obviously, if you were changing out valve springs, the rocker arms and pushrods were removed. Thus, no lifter pressing on the pushrod, pushing on the valve.

Turning the crank would have no effect on valve movement with no pushrods/rockers in place. So, that wouldn't indicate bent valves.

You're filling the cylinder with pressured air that's pushing the piston down. Trying to turn the crank while it's pressurized just means you're fighting against that pressure to push the piston back up the cylinder. I'd think if you had a massive amount of leakage, it'd be simple to turn the crank as you'd be pushing air out of the cylinder, past the valves.

I think you simply may have carbon build up on the valves. Probably just need cleaned and/or a valve job or simply lapping. Nothing you said seems to indicate any mechanical carnage.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
None of this makes sense. Obviously, if you were changing out valve springs, the rocker arms and pushrods were removed. Thus, no lifter pressing on the pushrod, pushing on the valve.

Turning the crank would have no effect on valve movement with no pushrods/rockers in place. So, that wouldn't indicate bent valves.

You're filling the cylinder with pressured air that's pushing the piston down. Trying to turn the crank while it's pressurized just means you're fighting against that pressure to push the piston back up the cylinder. I'd think if you had a massive amount of leakage, it'd be simple to turn the crank as you'd be pushing air out of the cylinder, past the valves.

I think you simply may have carbon build up on the valves. Probably just need cleaned and/or a valve job or simply lapping. Nothing you said seems to indicate any mechanical carnage.
I would be a lot more inclined to agree with this post than the others.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 12:25 PM
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My thought is when the valvetrain was disassembled the one cylinder wasnt pumped up enough allowing the valves to drop slightly. It happened to me once
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
My thought is when the valvetrain was disassembled the one cylinder wasnt pumped up enough allowing the valves to drop slightly. It happened to me once
At this point spring pressure would be holding the valves shut. Unless something is between the seat and the valve (carbon) it would mean the valve job is suspect
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
None of this makes sense. Obviously, if you were changing out valve springs, the rocker arms and pushrods were removed. Thus, no lifter pressing on the pushrod, pushing on the valve.

Turning the crank would have no effect on valve movement with no pushrods/rockers in place. So, that wouldn't indicate bent valves.

You're filling the cylinder with pressured air that's pushing the piston down. Trying to turn the crank while it's pressurized just means you're fighting against that pressure to push the piston back up the cylinder. I'd think if you had a massive amount of leakage, it'd be simple to turn the crank as you'd be pushing air out of the cylinder, past the valves.

I think you simply may have carbon build up on the valves. Probably just need cleaned and/or a valve job or simply lapping. Nothing you said seems to indicate any mechanical carnage.
ok, cool

i have the engine out
would suggest removing the heads of of the block to clean the valves?

thanks
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
None of this makes sense. Obviously, if you were changing out valve springs, the rocker arms and pushrods were removed. Thus, no lifter pressing on the pushrod, pushing on the valve.

Turning the crank would have no effect on valve movement with no pushrods/rockers in place. So, that wouldn't indicate bent valves.

You're filling the cylinder with pressured air that's pushing the piston down. Trying to turn the crank while it's pressurized just means you're fighting against that pressure to push the piston back up the cylinder. I'd think if you had a massive amount of leakage, it'd be simple to turn the crank as you'd be pushing air out of the cylinder, past the valves.

I think you simply may have carbon build up on the valves. Probably just need cleaned and/or a valve job or simply lapping. Nothing you said seems to indicate any mechanical carnage.
ok, cool

i have the engine out
would you suggest removing the heads off of the block to clean the valves?

thanks

Last edited by slicpartna; Feb 27, 2013 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Youre gonna have to take the heads off. If theres that much **** it would be beneficial to clean the whole head and chamber area
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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Like others said, I would pull the heads off and clean them up thoroughly.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000PewterT/A
Like others said, I would pull the heads off and clean them up thoroughly.
What is best to use to clean the heads?

Thanks
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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A wire brush works good for getting carbon off. And oven cleaner works great to help get the grime off but you gotta be careful and get it all out.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 07:22 AM
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Yes, pull the heads off for cleaning.

You're going to need to take the springs back off and pull the valves out to clean them. The part you're going to want to clean is the tops of the valves where they seat against the head. If you take all the valves out at once, make sure to mark them somehow or lay them out they way they cam out so you can put them back in the same place.

Like Tainted mentioned, oven cleaner will work or some foaming engine degreaser. Spray it on and let it soak for awhile. Some 00 steel wool works or a stiff plastic brush. You don't want to use a really stiff wire brush and mar up the sealing surface of the valve. Same approach goes with cleaning the head itself and the valve seat area.

If you're going through all this trouble, you might as well get some valve lapping compound and lap the valves a bit before final reassembly. Should make sure you get a really good seal. You can find a valve lapping kit at Advance or Autozone. Probably overkill, but while you have the heads off it's cheap and easy to do.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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Is there a sequence to remove the head bolts?
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:30 AM
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Nope. Doesn't really matter what order you remove them. If they are the stock bolts, you do not want to reuse them anyway.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
Nope. Doesn't really matter what order you remove them. If they are the stock bolts, you do not want to reuse them anyway.
Ok, thanks for the info
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