Reaperchild

LS1 Stock Bottom build thread. 10 Sec Daily Driver (Not Much to Ask)

Current Setup:- 99 NBM Z28 M6.
STOCK LS1 15k + LS6 Intake + 85mm-Maf + 853 heads + TSP 1 7/8 Headers + ORY 3" + Stock Catback + Stock Rear 273 or 342 idk + 28.4" Nitto Tire 295/45-18
I Know also .... So Trolls, PLEASE keep this thread Usefull !!

I had terrific support from Trevor at TSP & I would really recommend TSP too
Im doubtful on the weak points due to lack of first hand expertise where I did a fair bit of " " for a month now

I need some help triggering the Weak Points of the parts that I'm about to order -

Would I be able to Add Nitrous to my Setup without blowing my shortblock ?
How hard is it to tune 100mm MAF ?
What Rocker Arms ?

Engine & Components:-

1.135-BGK-001 - Racetronix Body Ground Kit 8"
2.135-GMBT-B - GM Battery Terminal, use with 3/8" Ring
3.135-BGC-8 - Racetronix Body Ground Cable 8"
4.135-FPA-001 - Racetronix Performance Fuel Pump Assembly, 1999-2002 LS1 F-Body
5.135-FPWH-001 - Racetronix Fuel Pump Wiring Harness Only, 1999-02 LS1 F-Body
6.135-PBIC-001-Racetronix Optional Pump Booster Interface Connector
7.135-01D030x-1 - Racetronix 42lb. High-Impedance Fuel Injectors, Flow Matched, SINGLE
8.16-102CD - Nick Williams 102mm Cable Drive Throttle Body
9.111-146302 - FAST 102mm Cathedral-Port Intake Manifold
10.28-12602544 - GM Front Coolant Pipe for LS6 Intake Manifold
11.28-12602540 - GM Rear Coolant Plugs for LS6 Intake Manifold
12.111-146021-KIT - FAST Fuel Rail Kit for LSXr Cathedral-Port Intake Manifold
13.111-540098 - FAST Intake Manifold Gasket Kit for FAST Cathedral-Port #146302 Intake Manifold
14.25-MS4114 - Texas Speed MS4 114:239/242, .649'/.609', 114 LSA
15.199-PRC227cc - Precision Race Components 227cc 6-Bolt Cylinder Heads
16.25-7450-1 - Texas Speed & Performance 7.450 Chromemoly Pushrod
17.236-9-3658TX3Z - Cloyes LS1/LS2-1x/LS6 Race Billet True Roller Single-Roller Timing Set, Includes Extreme Duty C5R Chain & 3 Keyway Sprocket, 3-Bolt Cam
18.122-MEL10295 - Melling High Pressure Oil Pump, 1997+ LSx Based Vehicles
19.48-917276 - ATI Dampener for LS1 F-body, 10% Underdrive w/ A/C
20.46-234-6301 - ARP Pro-Series Connecting Rod Bolts,Stock LS1 Cracked Rods
21.84-CH10 - Durabond Camshaft Bearing Set for 1st Gen LS1 Engine Block
22.171-CB-663P - Clevite Connecting Rod Bearings, LS1, Per Bearing, FOR STOCK CRANK APPLICATIONS
23.171-MS-2199P - Clevite Main Bearing Set for LS1 Application, STOCK CRANK APPLICATIONS
24.46-234-4316 - ARP LS1/LS6 Cylinder Head Studs, 12 Point
25.46-134-1003 - ARP LS1/LS2/LS6 Camshaft Bolt Kit
26.46-234-2503 - ARP LS1 Harmonic Balancer Bolt
27.202-C5170 - Cometic LSx Center-Bolt Rubber O-Ring Valve Cover Gasket, Per Gasket
28.202-C5172 - Cometic LSx Rear Cover Gasket with Rear Main Seal
29.202-C5171 - Cometic LSx Timing Cover Gasket with Front Seal
30.202-C5174 - Cometic LSx Water Pump Gasket Set,Includes Two Gaskets
31.202-C5173 - Cometic LSx Wet Sump Oil Pan Gasket
32.28-12498544 - GM 5.7L LS1 Multi-Layer Steel Cylinder Head Gasket, PAIR


Suspensions:-


1.226-230010 - UMI Performance Tubular Upper & Lower A-Arm Kit, 1993-2002 F-Body, RED OR BLACK Chrome Moly, Black, Add Upper & Lower A-Arm Hardware
2.226-2012 - UMI Performance Bolt-In LCA Relocation Brackets, 1982-2002 F-Body, BLACK OR RED , Black
3.226-2035 - UMI Performance 1982-2002 F-Body Double
4.Adjustable Control Arms- Roto-Joints Chrome Moly, Black
5.226-0019 - UMI Roto-Joint Spanner Wrench - Control Arms/Panhard Bar Combination
6.226-2024 - UMI Pan Hard Bar relocation kit, 98-02 Fbody Black
7.226-2038 - UMI Performance 1982-2002 F-Body Double Adjustable Panhard-w/ Roto-Joints Chrome Moly, Black
8.226-2004 - UMI Performance 3-Pt. Bolt-In Subframe Connectors, 1993-2002 F-Body, RED OR BLACK STANDARD Chrome Moly, Black
9.226-2245-275 - UMI Performance 82-02 GM F-Body Rear Drag Sway Bar – Stock Rear
#11 BELOW REPLACES 10.226-2207 - UMI Performance Torque Arm Relocation Kit, 1998-2002 Manual Trans. F-Body, BLACK OR RED Black, Add Polyurethane 1 Piece Torque Arm Bushing
11.226-2203 - UMI Performance Tunnel Brace-Mounted Torque Arm with Driveshaft Safety Loop, 1993-2002 FBody with Long Tube Headers Excluding Kooks, RED OR BLACK Chrome Moly, Black
12.226-3007 - UMI Performance Magnetic Angle Finder
13.226-3003 - UMI Performance Rear Torque Arm Hardware Kit, 1982-2002 F-Body
14.35-PKG-2 - QA1 Single Adjustable Front & Rear Shock Package w/ Front Springs
15.35-GS502 - QA1 Front 18-Way Adjustable Shocks, 1993-2002 F-Body
16.35-TS704 - QA1 18-way Rear Adjustable Shock with Bolt, Single, 1993-2002 F-Body
17.35-T114W - QA1 Motorsports Spanner Wrench
18.35-15FB300 - QA1 Front Spring, 300 lb., 1993-2002 F-Body
19.38-720783798 - SLP Rear Spring, Optional Level II 1996-00 Camaro SS/Firehawk/Comp T/A Replacement (ea.)
20.25-ALL34230 - Texas Speed & Performance Electric 3.0" Cut Out, Electric Valve Only
21.42-53030 - Flowtech 3-Inch Exhaust Cutout, SINGLE

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

You can add a small shot of nitrous

The tuners ability is the key to the maf tune. Fwiw a 85mm unit would flow enough for you.

Stock rockers with trunion upgrade. Easy economical and strong

VandykeT/A

You need gears for this set up 4.10s will leave you some space for spray if you decide , find a good tuner and I think the 100mm will be ok. By stock bottom end are you saying stock displacement and your rebuilding it? ARP rod bolts require resizing. I wouldn't want to turn the 6800+ you'll need to turn on a stock 99 bottom. Some get buy with it, some don't. I would tighten the LSA up to a 112 anyway. That'll move power a little lower. Stock rockers will be fine with the trunions and I would measure pushrod length after everythings together.

garygnu

sounds like a great combo..are you resizing your connecting rods ?

leeluther252

iTrader: (17)

Is this a rebuild? I dont understand the need for all the bearings if not. You dont need to do all that to hit 10's but if its a rebuild then ok.

Also, I may have missed it but is this an auto or stick. Autos need a 4k stall for an ms4. Also, and even more so if this is a stick car, that rear will bust. Get a 12bolt and be done with it. I've broken every 10 bolt I've taken to the track.

As stated before you need bigger gears as well.

leeluther252

iTrader: (17)

Is this a rebuild? I dont understand the need for all the bearings if not. You dont need to do all that to hit 10's but if its a rebuild then ok.

Also, I may have missed it but is this an auto or stick. Autos need a 4k stall for an ms4. Also, and even more so if this is a stick car, that rear will bust. Get a 12bolt and be done with it. I've broken every 10 bolt I've taken to the track.

As stated before you need bigger gears as well.

Reaperchild

Thank you all for the response, Well All the bearings & bolts are to be safe only.
Tearing the engine down while I'm at it so why not stiffen it up is what I'm thinking.
It can be a rebuild if required for safety but would appreciate to save on the dollar too.

So what are you guys saying ditch the bearings & rod bolts ?
I'm going to spin that motor quite often on a 6000 rpm to stay safe but wouldn't want the current leftover stock parts ruin the fun in couple of months !!

Ill pick up the 100mm MAF & the hell with it, a month for tuning should do.

Reaperchild

More Also, What size head gasket should I want to take for a daily driver ? !!

leeluther252

iTrader: (17)

450rwhp has become pretty standard practice in a Stock bottom end LS1 and I dont see the need to do the bearings and rod-bolts unless you plan on a rebuild.

If thats the case, then sure do it but I would go ahead and beef up the whole bottom end with pistons and rods if that were doing the rebuild. I personally wouldnt go through the trouble and spend the money without doing it all. Its one of those all or nothing deals for me.

With prc 227's and the MS4, I'm betting you are more in the 470+ rwhp range though. those are really good heads.

Reaperchild

Very True, That's exactly where I'm standing at ... but here comes the question again what Pistons & rods should I look at with a N/A dedicated car with a Nitrous setup for the strip ?

leeluther252

iTrader: (17)

wiseco's for pistons, hands down. They have a really nice ring setup and it comes with the pistons. Rods are more of a preference at that power level in my opnion. I like the compstar stuff but the Lunati, and Scat would work just fine imo and keep some cost down.

Of course you could always just buy a stroker short block and go bigger..lol

VandykeT/A

That set up will want to turn more than 6k. Closer to 7k. And what happens with the rod bolts is they stretch and allow the bearing to turn. ARPs require resizing so unless you pull the engine and basically rebuild it ( I wouldn't do at 15k) they aren't a option. You could either use a Katech bolt (some have turned bearings two weeks later) or take a chance on the stockers. If I were going to pull the motor down to the point I was changing rod bolts or resizing I would just sell the perfectly good LS1 you have and buy something bigger. Just seems more cost effective to me.

Reaperchild

I kind off agree with you,

Ill just skip the bearing & Bolts then & add the 100MAF. I think my motor is still fresh with barely 15K on it ...

LS1T56FTW

iTrader: (3)

In response to the quote that you had quoted, dude you are going to want to spin this thing to probably 7300, if not more. My setup with a 228/232 cam, 5.3 heads, and an LS6 intake peaks at 6600, and I shift around 6800. With your donkey dick cam and heads and big intake that thing probably would do best singing around 7500, no joke.

Reaperchild

Opportunity Cost my friend, else why would I stop there,

HOW much $$$ would I spend just to beef the bottom ? Another 1500$ on parts & a month to Install ??

Reaperchild

Of Course when its least expected ... 2nd gear blasts out 1-2 & 3rd gear Grinds !!
**** ..... So another Parts List for the T56 Rebuild. =(