what oil should i run after cam swap?
03-03-2013, 08:11 PM
#1
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what oil should i run after cam swap? hey guys im about to slap a torque v2 in my 01 a4 ss im replacing lifters cam pushrods sprigs timing chain all gaskets and machining and hand porting my heads I was wondering what oil I should start running keep in mind I live in a place with 115 degree summers so I also want something that will protect when its hot thanks!
03-03-2013, 11:58 PM
#7
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Any good quality 5 or 10w30. I would put the cheapest thing I could find in it while I'm flusing it out after the cam swap though. I've ran Pennzoil platinum and Mobil 1 with good luck.
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03-04-2013, 08:02 AM
#10
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Check this out. I use VR1, 10w 40. First time I ever used it was after my cam install and my oil pressure is better now than it was before the cam install and the valve train is dead quiet.
Check this out. I use VR1, 10w 40. First time I ever used it was after my cam install and my oil pressure is better now than it was before the cam install and the valve train is dead quiet.
03-04-2013, 09:46 AM
#12
Well now you got replies but not one of them offered any DATA to backup their mostly marketting based opinions.
You also specifically want to ignore advise from anyone who believes oil pressure is an indicator of quality.
We read oil pressure because it is easier than reading flow, more pressure technically means the pump will go into bypass sooner, which means no longer sending additional volume across the bearings. Pressure is NOT what keeps the parts separated, it is more like hydroplaning.
You also specifically want to ignore advise from anyone who believes oil pressure is an indicator of quality.
We read oil pressure because it is easier than reading flow, more pressure technically means the pump will go into bypass sooner, which means no longer sending additional volume across the bearings. Pressure is NOT what keeps the parts separated, it is more like hydroplaning.
03-04-2013, 10:01 AM
#13
Well now you got replies but not one of them offered any DATA to backup their mostly marketting based opinions.
You also specifically want to ignore advise from anyone who believes oil pressure is an indicator of quality.
We read oil pressure because it is easier than reading flow, more pressure technically means the pump will go into bypass sooner, which means no longer sending additional volume across the bearings. Pressure is NOT what keeps the parts separated, it is more like hydroplaning.
You also specifically want to ignore advise from anyone who believes oil pressure is an indicator of quality.
We read oil pressure because it is easier than reading flow, more pressure technically means the pump will go into bypass sooner, which means no longer sending additional volume across the bearings. Pressure is NOT what keeps the parts separated, it is more like hydroplaning.
03-04-2013, 01:30 PM
#15
I think alot of people worry too much about oil brand. For MOST applications on the street, any API certified in the manufactuer (or engine builder) reccomended viscosity will suffice. Race engines require a more advanced oil to deal with the harsher conditions, but thats another debate as we are talking OTS street oils.
Those test out there we refer to alot are good test, but not concrete scientific data. Additionally the test depending on the varaibles and the tester may skew the results in what the experiement is actually testing.
Very unlikely you will experience any negative effects from running any off the shelf 5W-30. If you are paranoid, you can always run a high zinc formula.
As many will inevitbly argue...Royal Purple, Brad Penn, M1, Valvoline, Castrol, QS, etc...all the same stuff, addtives may differ, not life critical.
Its like who gas is better? Chevron or 7eleven. How many of us have heard the "dirty gas" and "sediments"?
I pulled my tank after 150K using gas from who ever was the cheapest...tank was perfectly clean. It's all hersay and opinions...loyalty to brand or product.
Those test out there we refer to alot are good test, but not concrete scientific data. Additionally the test depending on the varaibles and the tester may skew the results in what the experiement is actually testing.
Very unlikely you will experience any negative effects from running any off the shelf 5W-30. If you are paranoid, you can always run a high zinc formula.
As many will inevitbly argue...Royal Purple, Brad Penn, M1, Valvoline, Castrol, QS, etc...all the same stuff, addtives may differ, not life critical.
Its like who gas is better? Chevron or 7eleven. How many of us have heard the "dirty gas" and "sediments"?
I pulled my tank after 150K using gas from who ever was the cheapest...tank was perfectly clean. It's all hersay and opinions...loyalty to brand or product.
03-04-2013, 02:32 PM
#17
I've talked with many engine builders and very reputable guys in the LS engine field and they are all very strong advocates of VR1 oils. Based on the DATA I've seen, and the professional oppions I've received from very reputable people who have nothing to gain by "pushing" one companies oil over anothers, is good enough for me and the reason I run the oil I do.
03-05-2013, 05:19 AM
#18
The new standards have resulted in oils that may not protect a H/C car due to the higher loads on the valve train. Someone recently posted issues with the pushrod ends. I did a lot of searching and recently switched to Amsoil Z-Rod 10W30 to get the zinc/phosphorous levels back to where they were 15 years ago before the EPA tried to protect us. The link above that shows the different oils that still maintain high zinc/phosphorous levels would be where I start looking for an oil. I also like to use an oil that is near the top of the 30W viscosity range at 100 degrees C. The Amsoil fit that requirement as well, not sure on others. Mobil-1 on the other hand is near the bottom of the range and close to the upper end of the 20W viscosity range at 100 degrees C.
