100k + 99 LS1 Engine, 6800 Rev limiter is Stock Rod Bolts Safe
03-15-2013, 07:19 AM
#21
brandy new parts. still in spec, shows you that everything has tolerances....it does not mean a lick when someone says something is "good". if you care about the longevity of an engine, messing with key components like this requires some vigilance in making sure everything is right. surely not the fastest or easiest way to go about it, but a little time and $$ up front will save you much more of both of those things later on down the road.
03-15-2013, 10:11 AM
#22
i've been turning my 99 5.3 (stock long block) to 6300 on shifts and 6750 rev limit, also spraying an occasional 200 shot on top lol. its been about 6 months now no problems (knocks on wood)... but my cam also pulls to 6500 so i may be adjusting my tune and put the limiter at 6850 and shifts at 6400-6500. not sure where i read it (i went search crazy) but i thought i read somewhere that if its 99+ as long as your not spinning over 7k daily they will hold up, and a couple people where taking them to 7300 quite often with no problems. but as said every setup is different so its up to you, i took the junkyard route if this motor chucks a rod ill buy another motor for 300-400 bux and part mine out for prolly 300-400 bux lol...
03-15-2013, 10:26 AM
#24
Leave it at 6500 rpm. What are you gaining from those extra 300 rpm anyway? Think about it.
The stresses on the rod bolts are exponential as rpm increases, not linear, so even 100 rpm can make a huge difference.
The stresses on the rod bolts are exponential as rpm increases, not linear, so even 100 rpm can make a huge difference.
03-15-2013, 01:03 PM
#26
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Im building my trans mildly stalled, modified shift kit, trans cooler. upgraded 3/4, beast sunshell, of course amsoil atf lol and and other upgrades i cant remember of the top of my head trans only has 5k miles
I agree 100%
Do it right now or do it right with a different block lol
i believe its 99+ block casting change also during that time hence why 98 isnt a sought after performance block
every setup is different and i dont know the entire history of the block i have
during tear down there was a bent pushrod hence upper engine ticking so i know who ever had it before me was revving it high so it s not worth the risk
if i knew the block history better and know block was taking care of then my decsion would of been to just run with stock rods till a complete rebuild
brandy new parts. still in spec, shows you that everything has tolerances....it does not mean a lick when someone says something is "good". if you care about the longevity of an engine, messing with key components like this requires some vigilance in making sure everything is right. surely not the fastest or easiest way to go about it, but a little time and $$ up front will save you much more of both of those things later on down the road.
i've been turning my 99 5.3 (stock long block) to 6300 on shifts and 6750 rev limit, also spraying an occasional 200 shot on top lol. its been about 6 months now no problems (knocks on wood)... but my cam also pulls to 6500 so i may be adjusting my tune and put the limiter at 6850 and shifts at 6400-6500. not sure where i read it (i went search crazy) but i thought i read somewhere that if its 99+ as long as your not spinning over 7k daily they will hold up, and a couple people where taking them to 7300 quite often with no problems. but as said every setup is different so its up to you, i took the junkyard route if this motor chucks a rod ill buy another motor for 300-400 bux and part mine out for prolly 300-400 bux lol...
every setup is different and i dont know the entire history of the block i have
during tear down there was a bent pushrod hence upper engine ticking so i know who ever had it before me was revving it high so it s not worth the risk
if i knew the block history better and know block was taking care of then my decsion would of been to just run with stock rods till a complete rebuild
