zachary3

iTrader: (7)

Just a quick question been searching and alot of different info

100k on 99 LS1 Block

6800 rev limiter 4l60e trans
shift points will be around 6000-6500ish rpm depending on where power is when it come to the dyno tune

no turning motr past 7000 rpm and this is a daily driver street car no hardcore racing

Is safe to use stock rod bolts for now till full rebuilt comes later on in future ?

im only running 243 heads cam ls1 intake very mild setup goall is 400 rwhp or close to it thats all

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

Could be fine, could be a rod through a block.

But hell what do I know. A rod bolt came loose on START UP on my 99 trans am and ruined the entire shortblock and put a few holes in the block.

2000PewterT/A

Its a coin toss, I have seen many go 6500+ rpm for a long time on stock rod bolts, I have also seen some turn themselves into a nice ventilated block in a couple passes.

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

lol
ill just resize and arp .. got to put cam bearing in anyways

Thanks Zach

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

It is a cointoss but i think you will be fine,i mean there are countless members spinning it that high,if its going to go its going to go,what cam are you running,you will get close to 400,but being a auto and ls1 intake i think it will be a choke hold,also whats your fuel setup?my cam only m6 was close toto maxing the stockers out and i had a ways to go to the 6500 and above range,imo roll it and build a motor,that way you have a running car and when something happens ya already have something to go in,i mean pulling the motor for arps is a lil much especially if your paying labor,thats not a cheap job,if you are doing the labor do katechs and drop the oil pan,your going to get mixed opinions on this topic,i know the 98s had really weak rod bolts

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

motor already apart swaping into 90 IrocZ
its a 99 block
plan to upgrade intake later on
going to run 255 walbro
corvette fuell filter with built in reg
getting a ajustable reg when i get a chance and
getting dyno tune i will be running Lc1 wideband to keep eye on fuel

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

also i do everything myself only reason sending block out to put cam bearing in and resize cap is im lazy right now and dont have the tools so this just speed up the process only cost around 140ish plus the parts

FYi im building engine in my apartment room lmao and done 95% of everything

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/po...102-post2.html

sreve

iTrader: (3)

Stock rev limit 6200
Stock wot shift rpm 6000

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

stock 100k rod bolts hold up to those parameters ?

rev limit would be 6500 shift around 6000 depending on powerband
was looking at my cam sheet just now

i mess up my numbers and basing off ls6 intake damn im a idiot

sreve

iTrader: (3)

As stated above it's any bodys guess how long it will last and good parts are never a bad idea and when it's out I'd build the best lower end your budget will allow.Two or three hundred over shift is all you need. I beat on my 136,000 mi car shifting @ 6000 all the time cam\heads at 105,000 new cam going in next week then 6300rpm shifts until she blows when ever that is.
The parts usally come out the bottom so when it comes time I figure it'll be time to go bigger.

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

i just use the exuse to get a better block

FAD2BLK93

U cannot resize the cracked rods of an LS motor! Have to buy new.

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

Not true...while you you can't close and hone back to stock size, you can hone oversize and run oversized bearings to compensate.

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

and you are correct

Do it right the first time or dont do it at all

doing things that can have 50/50 chance of failure doesnt seem worth the risk
and i wouldnt feel well driving it or pushing it

i know this is a touchy subject on here

Just wanted to know how stock rod bolts hold up in mild engine combo that isnt a high reving race car engine... knowing there the weak point of the bottom end .

So Arps are going in along with resizing with new oversized rod bearings


this is a budget build and rather spend money now then regret it later stock on the side of the road and looking at the trail of oil and then finding a rod

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

^^ agreed. arps will serve you well for your purposes.

figured I'd post some measurements of mine to illustrate the point..

rods are compstar forged h-beams, arp 2000 series 7/16 rod bolts torqued to 75 ft-lbs. when machining, they torque the caps, hone it to size, loosen the caps, retorque, then finish hone.



service limit on o-o-R is 0.0003". as you can see I'm on the hairy edge on freshly manufactured forged rods.

now think about what happens when you put upgraded bolts into powdered castings that have been heat cycled and stressed thousands of times over the course of many years.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

why not look at Katech rod bolts, no resizing needed.
on another note, i have a 99 with 96k miles on it, had H/C/I for 3 years, installed at just around 80k. my rev limiter is set to 6600 and i have bounced it off there a few times, stock rod bolts. my cam is good till 6500, but i didnt want to blow the motor, so i set it on the safe side for that just in case i overrev situation. so far so good, but if the motor was out i would indeed put in aftermarket rod bolts

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

because that's not true. just because katech doesn't "require" resizing doesn't mean that you shouldn't check. you have no way of knowing what condition the rod ends were in initially prior to replacing the bolts unless you measure. if your clearances are on the tight side of spec to begin with, you could be asking for trouble by replacing the hardware, stock or not.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...t-claimed.html - about 0.002" out of round

you can buy the arp's and get your rods resized for the same price or a little more than what the katechs go for new. and you have peace of mind knowing that they're right. the risk is simply too great to dismiss this as unnecessary.

zachary3

iTrader: (7)

if they say put oil in your gas tank to gain power would you do it .. you have to keep in mind its prob just a advertisment to make more $$$ because me personally.... its a smart idea think about people are split in there decision to resizing or not resizing''' hey lets come out with a bolt and advertise that you dont have to resize.... thats money in the bank in my book.... most guys replacing rods bolts are usally over 80k miles there is wear and tolerances change unless your using space oil lol



i agree

and yes its about the same price so i rather get arps it makes since to me

and was those tolerences from new unsed parts ?
intresting data

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Should be fine. Trans will probably go first under those conditions.

Busted Knuckles

Rod bolts are the single most stressed fastener in your entire engine.
Why take a chance on losing ALL of it???