senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Ok so what now? What is the OPs car capable 1/4 mile times with 327/350?

My car 326/334 did 13.1 @ 106mph stock stall in 2265 da.

Same car did 12.6 @ 110mph in -1245 da.

Same car with the addition of ss3600 and 3450 raceweight did 11.9 @ 112mph in -187 da


Dyno #s dont mean jack. OP get a stall and shoot for 11s

Blackbird-WS6

iTrader: (15)

He has a stall installed already. But its only a 2400 if I recall.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Exactly...he needs a stall lol

Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

The codes you posted are for front O2 sensors... How old are they? They were a little lazy when i was tuning it. Also if fuel filter is old deff replace that or it will burn out the fuel pump eventually.

deez01ls1

iTrader: (2)

I agree with senical...dyno numbers dont mean anything...i dynoed mine with mods in my signature and it put down 300rwhp...through an a4 and 4k stall...i cant wait to get some tires and run it at the track...i dont get caught up in the dyno numbers!

BlkZMD

The O2 may be originals, so maybe I need to replace them. What do you mean lazy when tuning it?

I'll have to double check on the fuel filter.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Slow switching, slow responding, cold, bitchy o2s lol

sweet-94z28

iTrader: (30)

My car made 335 HP/345 RWTQ with just bolt ons and a tune through a T56. I think you are doing just fine.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

People in here trying to compare M6 numbers to those of a stalled auto and say he is "down on power" are clueless. Whole different ballgame.


And as far as getting a code reader, if you have a lsx based performance vehicle you should really consider getting one. Oh and before the "I can just cruise down to autozone and get the code read"....see what happens when your car tosses out a code for the crank sensor when you're in the middle of no where.

sweet-94z28

iTrader: (30)

^^^^ ABSOLUTELY CORRECT ^^^^

I put a lot more faith in track times. My friend had literally the same 98 Trans Am as me, but just with an A4 and Yank SS3600. He consistently ran a half second faster than me and he dynoed like 308 RWHP. He then swapped to a T56 when his 4L60 went out and he made like 333 RWHP. People get way too worried about the dyno numbers. Track times are where it counts anyways.

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

Um So far everytime a unexpected code has popped up I just called up my tuner after going to autozone and that night I would just go to his house and he would take a look at it. My car is a built 383 with a pretty big cam and all the bolt ons so I wasn't surprised that a few codes would pop up in the days after the intial tune. That was 2 years ago and no codes have popped up again. If you have a good tuner who is local then I dont see why they wouldnt do that for you? Because of this I have sent him many of my friends cars to get tuned because he is very cheap and will make your car run right no matter how long it takes! My first tune after the motor was 250.00 and that consisted of 2 days of driving tuning around town and 1 night of tuning at the race track @ WOT. We learned I was running 90% duty cycles of my 36lb injectors so I bought some 42Lb'ers and a week later took it back to him and he retuned it for free with the new injectors. 18 months later I installed my 96 mm intake setup and he just tuned that last week on the dyno and the only thing I paid was a 100.00 for dyno rental! 3 different tunes cost me 350.00. Not to bad.

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

I am a little confused.. You tuned this car with Lazy O2's? I had another friend get tuned in there last week and you told him his Fuel pump was going out and he was loosing fuel pressure @ WOT. You still tuned his car as well. If the cars are not running right then why do you continue to tune them? If it were me and I saw there was an issue with the car on the dyno I would take it off the dyno and tell the person to get it fixed before I tune it.

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

Track times are great. I use to go to the track every week almost. Now not so much as I am getting sick of breaking ****. To me being satisfied with my car is were it counts. If I am dissapointed in a Track time or a Dyno run then I am not satisfied with my car! To me What I run @ the track and What my car makes on the dyno I care about each the same. When I run my T/A at the track I still have a 10 bolt and stock tranny. I usually run a 12.6 @ 120 range. I have fun and I drive home afterwards. I dont want to drop the money for a built tranny or rear. I am married with kids and have 3 cars I am working on as well. 10 years ago with my old firebird I didnt care. Thats why I broke 3 rears, 2 trannies, and 2 motors. I really dont care about what my car runs at the track because I know if I really push it **** will break. Its also very upsetting to see stock C6 vettes running 11's @ 118 mph range. Dyno numbers mean **** to people like me who dont want to break anymore **** @ the track! I look at my Dyno numbers and my MPH. I really dont care about ET or 60' in my T/A.. The Vette on the other hand I do. I know if I cut a 1.8 60' it would run a 12 with basically 1 bolt on. Not bad for a 98 Convertible automatic car!

MikeWS6

My 98 had the really slow switching o2's.

I was thinking about trying a dyno jet just for fun on a nice day. Hopedale is pretty close to me. How does that dyno read compared to Slowhawks? Within 10 hp would you say?

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

Its best to find a dyno and stick with it. When you start going from dyno to dyno thats when numbers dont add up. I have dynoed on Dynojets in Virginia Beach and Dynojets in NJ and the numbers were within 3-4 hp of each other with the same mods. If you do decide to change dynos look for another dynojet.

How is your oil pressure? What gas did you use that day? What brand converter do you have in your car?

Its best to take it to the track to see how it does. with your mods you should be trapping 108-110 mph range. My Vette trapped 106 stock and my T/A trapped 108 pretty much stock.

It is a good idea to have a scanner as well. I am just giving these guys crap.The reason I dont is because my tuner lives around the block from me, I also have collector car ins on my T/A so it covers all that break down crap. I also dont daily none of my LSX powered cars. Hell the G8's or Vettes dont even come with a spare tire and I am suppose to be worried about what codes pop up on long drives!

BlkZMD

I called Bill and he mentioned that for the Lazy O2 sensors, I should replace them. He recommended Corvette C5 rear 02 sensors, since you don't need an extension for them.

Hopefully when I replace the O2 sensors, the codes will go away.

They did mention other O2 sensors are tuned out.

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

If you got tuned with bad O2s then wouldnt u need another tune to get the car running 100%?

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Yea if you do a search you can see my name pop up many times over the slow switching. In the end the fix is always a tune. Now what exactly was done in our tunes IDK. I have heard some change switching values but I have also heard some just turn off stuff. All I know is I dont have that issue anymore because I can see my o2s oscillating just fine. Good thing I like to look at things myself so I dont have to keep calling the tuner up ya know?

Well thats all the dyno data I have to compare. So whatever is there is all we have to go by.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Yep I run those o2s. But if your getting slow response codes then dont expect the codes to go away. Ask me how I know. I tried everything and the only fix was the tune for me.

rpcase

iTrader: (9)

As far as a code reader.....I dont know why people dont just buy a bluetooth adapter for the obdII port and download an app on their phone. Tge adapter is $15 and most apps are free. Boom....you can read codes and clear them.