Tick Performance Torquemax Stg. 2 Results!!
#1
Staging Lane
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Tick Performance Torquemax Stg. 2 Results!!
Hey everyone, I recently did my first full engine rebuild on my LS1 because of the amount of valvetrain noise it had and in my other thread I found the cause. Lifter stopped rolling and ruined the cam. Anyway, I figured I'd do a cam upgrade as well as other small things like LS6 rod bolts etc.. and I chose the Tick Performance Torquemax Stage 2 because I wanted a lot of torque across the entire RPM range and I figured I'd try out one of Martins new cams. When I got the engine back together after double checking everything it fired right up within half a revolution. Needless to say I was already impressed with the idle quality (very lopey just how I like it lol) So the next day I went to the tuner and well... enough talk here are the numbers!
Mods:
SLP lid
BBK 1 3/4" LTs
TSP True duals with Bullets
Stock LS1 intake
Mods:
SLP lid
BBK 1 3/4" LTs
TSP True duals with Bullets
Stock LS1 intake
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
I have to agree with you that it's one bad cam if you're looking for mad torque and a bad *** idle. I've got pretty much the same mods as you, but I have a LS6 intake and 3 inch TSP True Duals. My car was street tuned, so I have no dyno numbers, but I would venture to say I'm right around the 400 rwhp 400 rwtq mark. I'll be adding a set of the AI Dart/RHS 223cc CNC'd heads to the mix, with right at 11.5.1 compression, so I'm hoping to be right around the 450 rwhp mark. Definately look at adding a set of heads if you get the chance.
#5
Staging Lane
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Thanks, I wanna do an LS6 intake pretty soon lol. I just got impatient I guess.. But the tuner said I would only have to pay for dyno time from here on out which is pretty cool.
Stock injectors and its an M6. Also the car has a little bit of cam surge at about 1200 rpm or just idling through a parking lot, if I went back to them do you think they would charge to see if they could fix it? Its not really annoying because I just have to adjust my driving style a little bit but its still there and it'd be nice to get rid of it. Other than that the car drives great.
Stock injectors and its an M6. Also the car has a little bit of cam surge at about 1200 rpm or just idling through a parking lot, if I went back to them do you think they would charge to see if they could fix it? Its not really annoying because I just have to adjust my driving style a little bit but its still there and it'd be nice to get rid of it. Other than that the car drives great.
#6
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
Part of that is the overlap of the cam. Once you get past 8 deg, perfect drivability isn't happening. That cam has 10.5 degrees, which is why it sounds good and makes good power.
The solution is to buy steeper gears - 4.10s would solve it.
More tuning would help as well. However, the ECUs are older in these cars and they aren't as fast as the LS2 and LS3 ECUs. Some things just can't be tuned out completely.
The solution is to buy steeper gears - 4.10s would solve it.
More tuning would help as well. However, the ECUs are older in these cars and they aren't as fast as the LS2 and LS3 ECUs. Some things just can't be tuned out completely.
#7
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I have to agree with you that it's one bad cam if you're looking for mad torque and a bad *** idle. I've got pretty much the same mods as you, but I have a LS6 intake and 3 inch TSP True Duals. My car was street tuned, so I have no dyno numbers, but I would venture to say I'm right around the 400 rwhp 400 rwtq mark. I'll be adding a set of the AI Dart/RHS 223cc CNC'd heads to the mix, with right at 11.5.1 compression, so I'm hoping to be right around the 450 rwhp mark. Definately look at adding a set of heads if you get the chance.
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#8
Staging Lane
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Part of that is the overlap of the cam. Once you get past 8 deg, perfect drivability isn't happening. That cam has 10.5 degrees, which is why it sounds good and makes good power.
The solution is to buy steeper gears - 4.10s would solve it.
More tuning would help as well. However, the ECUs are older in these cars and they aren't as fast as the LS2 and LS3 ECUs. Some things just can't be tuned out completely.
The solution is to buy steeper gears - 4.10s would solve it.
More tuning would help as well. However, the ECUs are older in these cars and they aren't as fast as the LS2 and LS3 ECUs. Some things just can't be tuned out completely.
#14
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
I think a LS6 intake could pick it up 15rwhp easily over the stock LS1 intake. Does it have an under drive pulley? LS6 intake and U/D pulley I could see it nearing 400rwhp cam-only with a 227 duration cam. That'd be impressive for sure. Also look into the later model truck MAF sensors or a Z06 MAF. They are 85mm and are worth 5-7rwhp as well. With the modifications I've listed you could have less than 400-500 dollars into them, and gain a solid 25rwhp. Torque curve looks great.
#18
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
Hey everyone, I recently did my first full engine rebuild on my LS1 because of the amount of valvetrain noise it had and in my other thread I found the cause. Lifter stopped rolling and ruined the cam. Anyway, I figured I'd do a cam upgrade as well as other small things like LS6 rod bolts etc.. and I chose the Tick Performance Torquemax Stage 2 because I wanted a lot of torque across the entire RPM range and I figured I'd try out one of Martins new cams. When I got the engine back together after double checking everything it fired right up within half a revolution. Needless to say I was already impressed with the idle quality (very lopey just how I like it lol) So the next day I went to the tuner and well... enough talk here are the numbers!
Mods:
SLP lid
BBK 1 3/4" LTs
TSP True duals with Bullets
Stock LS1 intake
Mods:
SLP lid
BBK 1 3/4" LTs
TSP True duals with Bullets
Stock LS1 intake