badazzhawk

i hear you need to get a inch larger bolt for the pully to put it on...do i need this...tsp says no...how do i put it back on with out snaping or striping anything...please help thanks

gomer

iTrader: (13)

I've always used the old stock bolt to reinstall the balancer. I just stick the balancer on the crankshaft, lay a 10in section of 2x4 over it and hit the wood "lightly" with a hammer once to start the balancer and then pull it the rest of the way on the crank with my old bolt. I've done over 20 of them that way without a problem.

badazzhawk

k sounds good to me...ill try it that way..i don't need any type of lube or anything on the bolt?

Brian @ Texas Speed & Performance

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what Gomer said, and I might have said the same on the phone Piece of wood over the pulley to be sure you aren't going to bend it any. And GENTLY tap it on until you can use your old bolt to pull it the rest of the way on. Then put on your new bolt.

-Matt-

gomer

iTrader: (13)

I always put just a touch of grease on the underside of the bolt head where it bears against the face of the pulley, just to make it turn a little easier. I wipe it off the pulley before I install the new bolt.

badazzhawk

thanks fellas that helps..thanks for the quick responses

racrx

I use a threaded rod, washer and nut. I am not comfortable with the first few crank threads getting pulled on like that. racrx

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Do you NEED it? MAYBE not, but with the horror stories you read here it might not be a bad idea unless your one of the people that does a bunch of installs. The pulley is an interference fit so it does NOT just slide right on. It has to convinced to go home. Once the pulley is halfway home the longer bolt is moot, but it's those first few mms of travel when you only have one or two threads of purchase that can make a big difference. GM has a special tool just for this job and the threaded rod is an even better idea than the longer bolt.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

The Gm tool basically is a threaded rod., but has an attachment to space out the head of the nut so you can turn it with a wrench while holding the head with a socket
Kent Moore J41478 is the rod + nut
Kent Moore J41665 is the spacing apparatus

Also, to get proper torque you can use K M J42386-A. This bolts in place of the starter and positively locks the flywheel so you can crank the front bolt on.

Of course you can do it a bunch of other ways, I have before, but this is the right way.

Coolvet

Great idea...what is the thread size? Thanks

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

M16 with a 2.0 thread pitch

Coolvet

thanks!