Tips and Tricks for H + C + I install
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Tips and Tricks for H + C + I install Hey Everyone,
Not sure if this should go here or in the general section, but this will be my first heads, cam, intake build on my basic bolt on 2000 LS1. With that being said I have a 2 post lift at my home, that I plan on using for the install.
With access to the lift I plan on dropping everything from the bottom just to make things simpler. Other than what is listed on ls1 How To what other tips for success should I follow that you would recommend?
I know ls1 how to... is great its just some members have complained about damaging the threads on the crank using that method, and I don't want to follow, any updated info would be great.
Anything to save money, headache, and preventing me from damaging my engine would be greatly appreciated. And as always thanks in advance.
Not sure if this should go here or in the general section, but this will be my first heads, cam, intake build on my basic bolt on 2000 LS1. With that being said I have a 2 post lift at my home, that I plan on using for the install.
With access to the lift I plan on dropping everything from the bottom just to make things simpler. Other than what is listed on ls1 How To what other tips for success should I follow that you would recommend?
I know ls1 how to... is great its just some members have complained about damaging the threads on the crank using that method, and I don't want to follow, any updated info would be great.
Anything to save money, headache, and preventing me from damaging my engine would be greatly appreciated. And as always thanks in advance.
I purchased a balancer install tool from coloradospeed.
Heres a link: http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...0std6u00pnrnj6
Also you can get a longer bolt for the crank to install. I dont know the exact length maybe someone else could chime in on the length of that bolt..
Heres a link: http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...0std6u00pnrnj6
Also you can get a longer bolt for the crank to install. I dont know the exact length maybe someone else could chime in on the length of that bolt..
That would be nice working on the engine out of the car...your knuckles will thank you. What I did that helped me out a lot was label all the bolts in separate zip lock baggies and put everything I took off in plastic totes. I also spent a lot of time cleaning out the bolt holes for the heads....that's what worried me the most. I probably took 20 minutes per hole.
You can get a balancer install tool off a member on here named Hiltsy855 for $20 shipped. He has an ad in the classified section. I taped a piece of steel brake line on the end of my blow gun to blow out the head bolt holes, this makes the cleanup time very quick. I did mine in the car, it wasn't too bad but if you are using OEM stretch head bolts it may be a little difficult to torque the bolts and get the correct angle, I used ARP bolts so I just had to torque them. I would also suggest a good torque wrench at least for doing the heads, a buddy in our shop let me use is digital Snap On one as I didn't trust my cheap one from the peoples republic. The one I used was nice too if you are going to use the oem bolts because it will tell you angle degrees and allow you to ratchet it and still maintain the correct angle.
I am in the middle of one right now, just take your time (pulled the T-Rex, installing F13 and 243 heads). I have the new cam in, melling pump and new chain installed. Engine deck is cleaned, just gotta chase those head bolt holes a few more times, it is tedious and critical to take your time there. I used my air blow gun to get the water out of the holes, just don't hit a water jacket!I also did twisted shop towel trick to go down the hole. Lastly chased with an old head bolt that was ground down on two sides. Hope to have the heads on tomorrow.
Good DIY write up cylinder head install
Good DIY write up cylinder head install
Last edited by 03Sssnake; Apr 11, 2013 at 05:08 PM.
Be careful with the O ring on the oil pump(if you are replacing it)make sure you use lots of lube and make sure you are using the correct o ring.
Double and triple check to make sure your head bolts holes are clean as others have mentioned. ARP sells a LS specific tap/thread chaser to clean the holes out. There have been many of people on here that have holes in the side of their blocks because they didn't take enough time to clean the head bolt holes out. It's not like a GEN I SBC where the head bolts go through the block into a water jacket.
Make sure you use the correct fasteners for the cam plate, don't install the cam plate dry. Use some blue loctite on the cam plate bolts as with the bolts for the timing gear to the cam.
If you are using a double roller timing chain check your clearance with the timing cover and oil pump.
If you take the oil pan off align it correctly when installing it.
Check pushrod length don't guess.
Make sure your install height is set properly. Your camshaft lift and which springs you are using will dictate what it is.
Sounds like you are good to go on not using the old bolt to pull the balancer on.
That's all I can think of now.
Double and triple check to make sure your head bolts holes are clean as others have mentioned. ARP sells a LS specific tap/thread chaser to clean the holes out. There have been many of people on here that have holes in the side of their blocks because they didn't take enough time to clean the head bolt holes out. It's not like a GEN I SBC where the head bolts go through the block into a water jacket.
Make sure you use the correct fasteners for the cam plate, don't install the cam plate dry. Use some blue loctite on the cam plate bolts as with the bolts for the timing gear to the cam.
If you are using a double roller timing chain check your clearance with the timing cover and oil pump.
If you take the oil pan off align it correctly when installing it.
Check pushrod length don't guess.
Make sure your install height is set properly. Your camshaft lift and which springs you are using will dictate what it is.
Sounds like you are good to go on not using the old bolt to pull the balancer on.
That's all I can think of now.
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I purchased a balancer install tool from coloradospeed.
Heres a link: http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...0std6u00pnrnj6
Also you can get a longer bolt for the crank to install. I dont know the exact length maybe someone else could chime in on the length of that bolt..
Heres a link: http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...0std6u00pnrnj6
Also you can get a longer bolt for the crank to install. I dont know the exact length maybe someone else could chime in on the length of that bolt..
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I'm sorry. I know people use bolts to pull the balancer on but it's just not a good idea especially when you can get the tool for cheap now. People are going to do what they want to do. I just hate to see them suggest things to someone doing this for the first time with such a high risk of something going wrong.
:off soap box:
:off soap box:
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
I am in the middle of one right now, just take your time (pulled the T-Rex, installing F13 and 243 heads). I have the new cam in, melling pump and new chain installed. Engine deck is cleaned, just gotta chase those head bolt holes a few more times, it is tedious and critical to take your time there. I used my air blow gun to get the water out of the holes, just don't hit a water jacket!I also did twisted shop towel trick to go down the hole. Lastly chased with an old head bolt that was ground down on two sides. Hope to have the heads on tomorrow.
Good DIY write up cylinder head install
Good DIY write up cylinder head install
