Cam repair plus new lifters. Need suggestions
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Roanoke, Va
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cam repair plus new lifters. Need suggestions
So long story short I broke a lifter about 500 miles after a fresh build. No clue why this happened they were used in my last build so maybe one was cracked and I just didn't notice it. But now the cam has some light scoring and some pitting on that one lobe. I'm looking for a good recomended place that does cam repair. Not sure if any sponsors do this or not so if need be just PM me if you don't want to post it. Also the cam is a Virginia Speed vtc-4 it was brand new and only about 500 miles on it now so I definitely want it fixed.
Next thing is I need a good set of lifters. I was thinking about a set of the cts-vr racing lifters. Any opinions? The lifters that broke was a set of comp r lifters so those are out of the question. The engine is no super high reving machine or anything just about 6500
Next thing is I need a good set of lifters. I was thinking about a set of the cts-vr racing lifters. Any opinions? The lifters that broke was a set of comp r lifters so those are out of the question. The engine is no super high reving machine or anything just about 6500
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (88)
what was your valvetrain setup? Sounds like you were lofting and smacked the lifters on your cam lobes.. Whats the preload on those lifters? where did you have yours set at?
There was a huge thread on lifters a couple weeks ago, alot of people were blaming lifter failure when theyre engines valvetrain wasnt setup correctly...
I think I'm going to get morel 5206 link bar lifters to eliminate the plastic lifter trays..
they have very good reviews
There was a huge thread on lifters a couple weeks ago, alot of people were blaming lifter failure when theyre engines valvetrain wasnt setup correctly...
I think I'm going to get morel 5206 link bar lifters to eliminate the plastic lifter trays..
they have very good reviews
#3
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Roanoke, Va
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To be one hundred percent honest I have no clue about the preload. The springs are a set of factory dual springs that come on AFR heads and have been on my last 2 setups with no issues and the push rods were a set of comp 7.40s that's what I measured them at needing to be. But who knows? I could have not done it right and been to long or short. But also I should add that the engine never turned higher than 4k rpms the ONE time it even saw that was right at about 500 miles when I just kinda tapped it to blow off and that's when the noise started. Not sure if that gives any kind of clue
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Roanoke, Va
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep lifters, springs, rockers, and heads are the same just new cam, short block and pushrods.
After doing a little research I'm leaning towards a set of ls7s. The cts-vr lifters are getting a pretty bad wrap. And my budget is pretty much gone with just ordering a bunch of 4l80e stuff right before this happened and now having to get the cam repaired too...
After doing a little research I'm leaning towards a set of ls7s. The cts-vr lifters are getting a pretty bad wrap. And my budget is pretty much gone with just ordering a bunch of 4l80e stuff right before this happened and now having to get the cam repaired too...
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (88)
those Slow leakdown lifters he has will work too, but he said if your valvetrain geometry is unstable that they would do more damage than ls7's would because they won't open quick enough and will hammer against the cam lobes...
lol I might be getting carried away with this now
but it just comes down to getting your valvetrain on point, take your time with it and make sure its perfect before moving forward..
Im taking my sweet *** time with my build and trying to cover all my bases, if something breaks Im going to kill somebody
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I knwo they are a lot more money, but the Morel lifters have superior materials and bearings. The internal tolerances are much better as well. The offshore boating guys use them because lifters get beat in those engines that are turning high RPM under high loads.
As for the cam, if the scratch is through the hardened layer you may be better off just replacing it. I know its not what you want to hear but taking out a scratch and re-heat treating may be costly and is somewhat specialized. I wouldn't have any confidence in the cam after that and if the hardened layer is breeched the lifter will get taken out in the process and you will have bigger issues.
The preload on your former Comp R's is 0.002"-0.004" and Comp recommends an adjustable valve train when they are used. Not sure how close you held your preload in the prior setup but it may have contributed to the issue you ran into.
As for the cam, if the scratch is through the hardened layer you may be better off just replacing it. I know its not what you want to hear but taking out a scratch and re-heat treating may be costly and is somewhat specialized. I wouldn't have any confidence in the cam after that and if the hardened layer is breeched the lifter will get taken out in the process and you will have bigger issues.
The preload on your former Comp R's is 0.002"-0.004" and Comp recommends an adjustable valve train when they are used. Not sure how close you held your preload in the prior setup but it may have contributed to the issue you ran into.
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (88)
I knwo they are a lot more money, but the Morel lifters have superior materials and bearings. The internal tolerances are much better as well. The offshore boating guys use them because lifters get beat in those engines that are turning high RPM under high loads.
As for the cam, if the scratch is through the hardened layer you may be better off just replacing it. I know its not what you want to hear but taking out a scratch and re-heat treating may be costly and is somewhat specialized. I wouldn't have any confidence in the cam after that and if the hardened layer is breeched the lifter will get taken out in the process and you will have bigger issues.
The preload on your former Comp R's is 0.002"-0.004" and Comp recommends an adjustable valve train when they are used. Not sure how close you held your preload in the prior setup but it may have contributed to the issue you ran into.
As for the cam, if the scratch is through the hardened layer you may be better off just replacing it. I know its not what you want to hear but taking out a scratch and re-heat treating may be costly and is somewhat specialized. I wouldn't have any confidence in the cam after that and if the hardened layer is breeched the lifter will get taken out in the process and you will have bigger issues.
The preload on your former Comp R's is 0.002"-0.004" and Comp recommends an adjustable valve train when they are used. Not sure how close you held your preload in the prior setup but it may have contributed to the issue you ran into.
Yes morel 5206 for the win