ARP head studs into 6.0l block, extremely hard to thread in, problem?
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ARP head studs into 6.0l block, extremely hard to thread in, problem? I went to install ARP head studs i had in my old ls1 alum block into new 6.0L shortblock, and you can only thread them in about 2 turns by hand, then have to use an allen to slowly work them down into the block.
It took about 5 minutes each to do 2 studs so far. every stud was like this, would only thread in a few turns by hand then you can try and use the allen to slowly work them into the block (by tightening/untightening and they slowly work thier way down).
Any possibilities on why?? The threads seem clean as they can get. I put a bit of oil on each stud to lubricate it just a bit. I'll try some ARP moly lube i picked up tonight but i really doubt thatll make it easy to hand tighten thead in.
It took about 5 minutes each to do 2 studs so far. every stud was like this, would only thread in a few turns by hand then you can try and use the allen to slowly work them into the block (by tightening/untightening and they slowly work thier way down).
Any possibilities on why?? The threads seem clean as they can get. I put a bit of oil on each stud to lubricate it just a bit. I'll try some ARP moly lube i picked up tonight but i really doubt thatll make it easy to hand tighten thead in.
It might be a hyd lock. Try cleaning the hole and the stud, then spray a light lube like wd40 on them.
I would not use any oil or grease substance as it may crack the block.
Kurt
I would not use any oil or grease substance as it may crack the block.
Kurt
i usually spray brake clean in the holes, then blow out the holes with air.
try runnin a tap in one and see if it gets easier to thread in.
the moly lube is your best bet for torque readings. ive never had a problem with motor oil on the bolts cracking a block, aluminum or cast iron, head or mains.
try runnin a tap in one and see if it gets easier to thread in.
the moly lube is your best bet for torque readings. ive never had a problem with motor oil on the bolts cracking a block, aluminum or cast iron, head or mains.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
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It cant be hyd lock, its hard to turn from the first thread in to the last. I finally worked it all the way down in but it doesnt feel right.
I'll try brake cleaning them out again and blowing them out.
And ARP Moly lube
argh
I'll try brake cleaning them out again and blowing them out.
And ARP Moly lube
argh
Distorted threads
Originally Posted by AidanN20
I went to install ARP head studs i had in my old ls1 alum block into new 6.0L shortblock, and you can only thread them in about 2 turns by hand, then have to use an allen to slowly work them down into the block.
It took about 5 minutes each to do 2 studs so far. every stud was like this, would only thread in a few turns by hand then you can try and use the allen to slowly work them into the block (by tightening/untightening and they slowly work thier way down).
Any possibilities on why?? The threads seem clean as they can get. I put a bit of oil on each stud to lubricate it just a bit. I'll try some ARP moly lube i picked up tonight but i really doubt thatll make it easy to hand tighten thead in.
It took about 5 minutes each to do 2 studs so far. every stud was like this, would only thread in a few turns by hand then you can try and use the allen to slowly work them into the block (by tightening/untightening and they slowly work thier way down).
Any possibilities on why?? The threads seem clean as they can get. I put a bit of oil on each stud to lubricate it just a bit. I'll try some ARP moly lube i picked up tonight but i really doubt thatll make it easy to hand tighten thead in.
Unfortunately, Time Sert (where I got mine) will no longer sell the LS1 thread forming tool. Some bone head broke the tool off in a block and is suing Time Sert for a block. I don't know off hand where you can get one but perhaps ARP knows another company that makes a thread forming tool for the LS1.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
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Originally Posted by AidanN20
I went to install ARP head studs i had in my old ls1 alum block into new 6.0L shortblock, and you can only thread them in about 2 turns by hand, then have to use an allen to slowly work them down into the block.
It took about 5 minutes each to do 2 studs so far. every stud was like this, would only thread in a few turns by hand then you can try and use the allen to slowly work them into the block (by tightening/untightening and they slowly work thier way down).
Any possibilities on why?? The threads seem clean as they can get. I put a bit of oil on each stud to lubricate it just a bit. I'll try some ARP moly lube i picked up tonight but i really doubt thatll make it easy to hand tighten thead in.
It took about 5 minutes each to do 2 studs so far. every stud was like this, would only thread in a few turns by hand then you can try and use the allen to slowly work them into the block (by tightening/untightening and they slowly work thier way down).
Any possibilities on why?? The threads seem clean as they can get. I put a bit of oil on each stud to lubricate it just a bit. I'll try some ARP moly lube i picked up tonight but i really doubt thatll make it easy to hand tighten thead in.
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Verdad Gallardo kent moore makes the time sert kit i have used.
i have only used it on northstar aluminum blocks, never ls1. but they doo make a kit for ls1 i saw one on ebay.
you have to drill the old treads, tap(or whatever its called) then thread in a new time-sert. northstars suck *** by the way.
but this is an iron 6.0 block right? i dont see why you cant tap the holes.
i dont think you will hurt the block by running them in.
seems to have worked for "btl fed"
i have only used it on northstar aluminum blocks, never ls1. but they doo make a kit for ls1 i saw one on ebay.
you have to drill the old treads, tap(or whatever its called) then thread in a new time-sert. northstars suck *** by the way.
but this is an iron 6.0 block right? i dont see why you cant tap the holes.
i dont think you will hurt the block by running them in.
seems to have worked for "btl fed"
Last edited by Gen3Benz; Apr 25, 2004 at 12:28 PM.
