Not happy with performance..
The Toyo TQ tires are excellent drag radials and are fine for what the op is doing with them. I was at the track same time the op was and the track prep was terrible, and I mean terrible. My Et Street bias ply tires wouldn't even hook slipping the clutch off the line.
Lets get off the tire drama and back to the original question. The second time slip was on the rev limiter in the 1-2 shift not 2-3 and it clearly knocked the mph down. The better 60 foot caused the better et. Appears to me to be a problem in the tune. My recommendation is to check all basics from the cam install. Check pushrod length if unsure. Find a cheap used 99+ pcm in the classifieds and perform the pin out procedure to run the better pcm. Suck up the fact that a vigilante converter doesn't mph well even though it's a damn good converter. Return to the tuner for a retune so the car quits dying on you all the time and get a stable idle AND make sure he raises that rev limiter off those shift points more. Return to the track, practice, practice and practice your launch.
Something is clearly off a little bit and usually these types of issues are the most difficult to find. I agree with the above poster that the mph was slightly off before the cam swap and the original slight problem effecting your low trap mph persists. Cover all the basics before throwing more parts at it. You were originally going to just stab the cam in it...then you changed many things. You have quality parts on it now so slow down and figure it out.
Lets get off the tire drama and back to the original question. The second time slip was on the rev limiter in the 1-2 shift not 2-3 and it clearly knocked the mph down. The better 60 foot caused the better et. Appears to me to be a problem in the tune. My recommendation is to check all basics from the cam install. Check pushrod length if unsure. Find a cheap used 99+ pcm in the classifieds and perform the pin out procedure to run the better pcm. Suck up the fact that a vigilante converter doesn't mph well even though it's a damn good converter. Return to the tuner for a retune so the car quits dying on you all the time and get a stable idle AND make sure he raises that rev limiter off those shift points more. Return to the track, practice, practice and practice your launch.
Something is clearly off a little bit and usually these types of issues are the most difficult to find. I agree with the above poster that the mph was slightly off before the cam swap and the original slight problem effecting your low trap mph persists. Cover all the basics before throwing more parts at it. You were originally going to just stab the cam in it...then you changed many things. You have quality parts on it now so slow down and figure it out.
Okay, this devolved into a Toyo TQ discussion.
At his power level, those are fine tires.
But something is up with the combo as a whole. A 1.76 60 means he's launching somewhat decently on a streetable DR. But the times and MPH are somewhat low.
The problem is in the heat your car might be getting too hot. Are you running the car when it's hot? You might try a Chrs1313 ram air kit and see if getting some slightly cooler air in there would help.
At his power level, those are fine tires.
But something is up with the combo as a whole. A 1.76 60 means he's launching somewhat decently on a streetable DR. But the times and MPH are somewhat low.
The problem is in the heat your car might be getting too hot. Are you running the car when it's hot? You might try a Chrs1313 ram air kit and see if getting some slightly cooler air in there would help.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 625
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From: Raleigh, NC
If you go by trap speeds alone, you picked up about 40 usable hp. From the info you posted, I think you need to get used to the new setup and how it runs, shift points, etc, to get it where you want a the track.
You basically went 88 in the 1/8th and 109 in the 1/4, and 89 in the 1/8th and 110 in the 1/4. I believe it is laying down on the last half of the track slightly, and there could be alot of reasons. My last car which was similar was a Mustang, but at 440 rwhp and 3700 lb race weight it would trap about 90-91 in the 1/8th and about 120-121 in the 1/4. It was under geared with 3.73's, if I swapped them for 4.30's I think it would have gone about 3-5 mph faster. If you aren't near your power peak through the traps at the end then you need more gearing, otherwise, you will have to settle for it laying down at the end of the track.
I think you should be going faster in the 1/4 based on your 1/8 mile traps, but then, it could be due to setup and shift points being different now. I think you need to run it and datalog it more times to really see what is going on.
Regarding the 806 heads, their only real down side are the crappy valve covers and a poor marketing campaign. People assume they are worse than the other heads because they are older and different looking. Any benefit of a non 806 OEM LS1 head compared to an 806 is only marginal.
You basically went 88 in the 1/8th and 109 in the 1/4, and 89 in the 1/8th and 110 in the 1/4. I believe it is laying down on the last half of the track slightly, and there could be alot of reasons. My last car which was similar was a Mustang, but at 440 rwhp and 3700 lb race weight it would trap about 90-91 in the 1/8th and about 120-121 in the 1/4. It was under geared with 3.73's, if I swapped them for 4.30's I think it would have gone about 3-5 mph faster. If you aren't near your power peak through the traps at the end then you need more gearing, otherwise, you will have to settle for it laying down at the end of the track.
I think you should be going faster in the 1/4 based on your 1/8 mile traps, but then, it could be due to setup and shift points being different now. I think you need to run it and datalog it more times to really see what is going on.
Regarding the 806 heads, their only real down side are the crappy valve covers and a poor marketing campaign. People assume they are worse than the other heads because they are older and different looking. Any benefit of a non 806 OEM LS1 head compared to an 806 is only marginal.
Well guys, after some trouble shooting turn out I had a vacuum leak on cylinder 7 from my intake gasket. Replaced gaskets and now no vacuum leak! Think when I get my retune next week ill see an increase in performance?
