LQ9 370CI MS4 PRC 5.3 Build
07-24-2013, 08:12 AM
#21
Very nice setup...but I keep reading that Monster Clutches are great for the price. Based on your setup (take with a grain of salt) you may want to look into a Monster.
Also, LMK how you like the Rockland Tranzilla. I might be able to buy a beat up T56 from a family friend with the idea of sending the trans to Rockland for the Tranzilla upgrades.
Also, LMK how you like the Rockland Tranzilla. I might be able to buy a beat up T56 from a family friend with the idea of sending the trans to Rockland for the Tranzilla upgrades.
07-24-2013, 10:42 AM
#23
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I will probably do it if i see issues with the ls7, i have to fluff up my account again
Buy it and send it as a core they will send you one already rebuilt. I went down there dropped mine off and took the new one home at the same time. Could not have been easier. Helps alot that its right down the road from me
Buy it and send it as a core they will send you one already rebuilt. I went down there dropped mine off and took the new one home at the same time. Could not have been easier. Helps alot that its right down the road from me
08-02-2013, 10:02 PM
#25
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Car is running and at home (bringing it to work tomorrow to align it)
Excitor wire opened/broke in the harness somewhere, bought a new connector and ran my own wire
trans hits the floor possible due to the solid motor mounts raising the engine, Unsure of why it changed so much (checked pinion angle though) still ok
Rear main seal appears to be leaking even with a new seal 8/ May end up pulling trans after the tune and install a new cover with gasket
Started right up though and sounds like a monster. Can't wait to really get to drive this thing
Car also got a new rack, outer tie rods, starter and alternator.
Now jsut to address this what seems like super common rear main leak with GM's new gaskets
But for everything that was replaced I don't think its that bad
Excitor wire opened/broke in the harness somewhere, bought a new connector and ran my own wire
trans hits the floor possible due to the solid motor mounts raising the engine, Unsure of why it changed so much (checked pinion angle though) still ok
Rear main seal appears to be leaking even with a new seal 8/ May end up pulling trans after the tune and install a new cover with gasket
Started right up though and sounds like a monster. Can't wait to really get to drive this thing
Car also got a new rack, outer tie rods, starter and alternator.
Now jsut to address this what seems like super common rear main leak with GM's new gaskets
But for everything that was replaced I don't think its that bad
08-03-2013, 06:34 AM
#26
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glad to hear you got it running!
How did you align the rear main seal during installation? There are a few different options for tools, I managed to use only straightedge's per the Potak book instructions, and I don't have any leaks there.
How did you align the rear main seal during installation? There are a few different options for tools, I managed to use only straightedge's per the Potak book instructions, and I don't have any leaks there.
08-28-2013, 01:55 PM
#27
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Been on vacation and haven't had much time for the car but....
I used the sac city corvette alignment tool, but my rear main or rear cover is leaking right now, trans will be coming out next weekend to get replaced with a new (cover gasket, bolt and rear seal) kits from GM 71$ bought it an hour ago, in stock, for the kit with the seal installed
Injectors were also maxed out at 104% duty cycle at 6200 rpm, also upgrading to a 85mm MAF while im at it.
For the time being we just did driveability. Which will have to be redone for the new injectors.
Got bosch 42lb/hr green style injectors. Hopefully I can make some money back from the red ones.
I used the sac city corvette alignment tool, but my rear main or rear cover is leaking right now, trans will be coming out next weekend to get replaced with a new (cover gasket, bolt and rear seal) kits from GM 71$ bought it an hour ago, in stock, for the kit with the seal installed
Injectors were also maxed out at 104% duty cycle at 6200 rpm, also upgrading to a 85mm MAF while im at it.
For the time being we just did driveability. Which will have to be redone for the new injectors.
Got bosch 42lb/hr green style injectors. Hopefully I can make some money back from the red ones.
09-14-2013, 06:59 PM
#28
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help me get his baby road worthy. Can't figure out the noise
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...p-reached.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...p-reached.html
11-04-2013, 08:56 AM
#29
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Tapping noise si finally gone and allowed me to blow some more money.
Still waiting on the new throttle cable to eliminate traction control. Tuning will be done on Saturday. Couldn't finish last time since at WOT the injectors were maxing out
The billet throttle is absolutely gorgeous and comes in a nice blown plastic case similar to handguns
Removed the second air system, it was deactivated and the new FTP lid isn't going to be and isn't cut for it.
Removed the traction control since I put the direct cable. Seems a little snappier. Maybe there was some unwanted slack or just because of pure length to the TC motor.
Removed cruise control since that hasn't worked in 50k
Still a lot of cleaning to do in there. Thinking about buying another harness and putting all new connectors and taking out what Isn't used anymore. May gut the glove box and move the PCM into there. A lot of ideas going through my head to make it nice
Car has also been tuned now but we are running out of fuel so a new walbro pump is ordered
Still waiting on the new throttle cable to eliminate traction control. Tuning will be done on Saturday. Couldn't finish last time since at WOT the injectors were maxing out
The billet throttle is absolutely gorgeous and comes in a nice blown plastic case similar to handguns
Removed the second air system, it was deactivated and the new FTP lid isn't going to be and isn't cut for it.
Removed the traction control since I put the direct cable. Seems a little snappier. Maybe there was some unwanted slack or just because of pure length to the TC motor.
Removed cruise control since that hasn't worked in 50k
Still a lot of cleaning to do in there. Thinking about buying another harness and putting all new connectors and taking out what Isn't used anymore. May gut the glove box and move the PCM into there. A lot of ideas going through my head to make it nice
Car has also been tuned now but we are running out of fuel so a new walbro pump is ordered
11-04-2013, 09:54 AM
#31
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What do you mean
The car has yet to be dyno'd with the LQ9 in the car, we have been doing a street tune and getting driveability dialed in.
Won't be dyno'd till the new fuel pump is installed
The car has yet to be dyno'd with the LQ9 in the car, we have been doing a street tune and getting driveability dialed in.
Won't be dyno'd till the new fuel pump is installed
11-04-2013, 12:45 PM
#35
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I would if I were you. I would of had no idea if it wasn't for the lap top
To my knowledge I have 130k on that stock pump. No idea if it was replaced before I bought the car
But........... When we were hittting 6-7.3k the alternator was barely pushing battery voltage. He was telling me something about doing truck alternators. So I have to look into that as well.
So i don't know if the pump was struggling due to a lack of power (voltage) or because it just physically can't move the fuel it needs to
I can hook my mecahincal gauge up and read physical fuel pressure but it still may not have the volume. Peace of mind 198 for the kit its going in.
To my knowledge I have 130k on that stock pump. No idea if it was replaced before I bought the car
But........... When we were hittting 6-7.3k the alternator was barely pushing battery voltage. He was telling me something about doing truck alternators. So I have to look into that as well.
So i don't know if the pump was struggling due to a lack of power (voltage) or because it just physically can't move the fuel it needs to
I can hook my mecahincal gauge up and read physical fuel pressure but it still may not have the volume. Peace of mind 198 for the kit its going in.
11-04-2013, 01:10 PM
#36
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I have been thinking of removing my traction control and cruise control, how easy was it with everything in the car and what parts did you use (just a throttle cable from a car without?)
11-04-2013, 01:23 PM
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If ordered the cable from tick performance, they have it listed on there website,
It is ridiculously easy.
Remove under panel to access the top of the accelerator pedal. squeeze the clip at the firewall from inside the car and it pushes threw and its almost directly to the left of your brake booster.
pull it all the way out and through then disconnect the harness at the TC. The cruise control you have to get from underneath. It is right above your AIR pump.
It's really simple. Only bad part is that the "ASR" light is always on now since I disconnected the connector. There might be a way to short it out to shut it off or you can modify the cluster by opening the circuit to the light on the circuit board
It is ridiculously easy.
Remove under panel to access the top of the accelerator pedal. squeeze the clip at the firewall from inside the car and it pushes threw and its almost directly to the left of your brake booster.
pull it all the way out and through then disconnect the harness at the TC. The cruise control you have to get from underneath. It is right above your AIR pump.
It's really simple. Only bad part is that the "ASR" light is always on now since I disconnected the connector. There might be a way to short it out to shut it off or you can modify the cluster by opening the circuit to the light on the circuit board
11-04-2013, 09:50 PM
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no problem man. I'm gonna end up taking out the bulb if I could otherwise a razor will do the trick
The throttle response alone was worth it for me the cleaning up of the engine bay was just a bonus
The throttle response alone was worth it for me the cleaning up of the engine bay was just a bonus
