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spun rod bearing, fix or...

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Old 07-29-2013, 05:44 PM
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Default spun rod bearing, fix or...

I have a 98 SS with a spun rod bearing. Car only had 76k miles.
300 miles ago, I upgraded all the valve train, new cam, oil pump, chain, ECT.

I assume crank will need to be inspected and fixed by machine shop, new bearings... what else would the car possibly need?

As far as costs, I am happy with "the around" 400 HP I should see when the car is running correctly, so if this motor can be fixed, what would an estimated cost run me?

It seems as though people with these cars who spin rod bearings end up buying new blocks and building 408's and such, why is that?
Old 07-29-2013, 06:18 PM
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Usually, when you spin a rod bearing, it trashes the crank and whatever rod spun the bearing. You will have to have the crank turned, and find a replacement rod. By the time it's all said and done, it's generally worth it in most people's minds to just upgrade or get a new equal short block.

The biggest problem with any spun bearing is that it sends metal shavings throughout the engine. The filter may catch the majority of the metal, but not all. And it won't help any components that are splash oiled.

To properly fix an engine that has spun a bearing, the entire engine needs to come apart and be totally gone thru to look for further damage. On top of fixing the already obvious problems.
Old 07-29-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
Usually, when you spin a rod bearing, it trashes the crank and whatever rod spun the bearing. You will have to have the crank turned, and find a replacement rod. By the time it's all said and done, it's generally worth it in most people's minds to just upgrade or get a new equal short block.

The biggest problem with any spun bearing is that it sends metal shavings throughout the engine. The filter may catch the majority of the metal, but not all. And it won't help any components that are splash oiled.

To properly fix an engine that has spun a bearing, the entire engine needs to come apart and be totally gone thru to look for further damage. On top of fixing the already obvious problems.

Hey thanks! That is what I was looking for. I plan to pull the motor and just get the crank turned and possibly get the block cleaned awhile its going to be apart anyways. Time will tell I guess!
Old 07-29-2013, 06:51 PM
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Yep.

To everything bww3588 just said. Also the 97-98 blocks had walls in the cylinder liners so thin that anything other than a super light hone to break the glaze would make them junk. If your cylinders have any ridge or taper issues you are going to buy a new one anyway.
Old 07-29-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunslinger09
Yep.

To everything bww3588 just said. Also the 97-98 blocks had walls in the cylinder liners so thin that anything other than a super light hone to break the glaze would make them junk. If your cylinders have any ridge or taper issues you are going to buy a new one anyway.
Agreed. 97-early 99 can only accept a .005 hone. Which most cylinder damage outside of normal is well beyond what .005 can take care of.
Old 07-29-2013, 08:20 PM
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I just recently spun the #6 rod bearing and trashed pretty much everything...the heads were the only thing that could be saved
Old 07-29-2013, 10:57 PM
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Thanks for all the replies! I guess the only way to find out is to pull the motor and start digging into it!
Old 07-30-2013, 04:38 AM
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Might still be a good idea to look at a few blocks/engines just in case you decide to go that route.



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