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Valves hitting Pistons W/ T-ReX!!! Need help (probably my fault)

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Old 04-30-2004, 01:55 PM
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Default Valves hitting Pistons W/ T-ReX!!! Need help (probably my fault)

T-ReX is in. Heads are on and torqued (stock unmodified heads). rockers are on and torqued. Put on a new oil pump, stock timing chain and gears, lifters. I bought TR's cam package with cam with 7.4" pushrods. Using Victor Reinz headgaskets. I didn't use a degree wheel. I did however line up the dots, and they line up perfectly (I think).

Any ideas why they're hitting? I'm pretty sure it's the valves hitting, as I can't really look in there to tell. It sounds like it's coming from around that general area. I can turn the cam gear, probably, 1/3 of the way around, before it hits something and stops.

cam specs are 243.8/249.7 .609/.615 109.9. I'm no cam expert, but could that extra bit of duration and lift, cause the problem?

I asked my local board, COFBA, and they've thrown out a few ideas (BTW, thanks guys), but, I figured i'd put it on this board too.

Called TR and the guy said it might not be degreed properly. I have no idea how to use a degreeing wheel, but I thought all I had to do was line up the 2 dots?

Advise?
Old 04-30-2004, 02:08 PM
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I thought it was supposed to be .612 lift?
Are those gaskets any thinner than stock?
Old 04-30-2004, 02:09 PM
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...when I spoke to Texas Speed, they told me I would have to degree the cam and notch the pistons for that cam...look at the lift .609/614...did you clay it prior to installing just to see if it was going to touch or not? How deep is the indention on the piston? Did they advice you to go with a shorter push rod?
Old 04-30-2004, 02:10 PM
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the advertised specs are, I think, 242/248 .608/.612 110lsa. and the guy at TR said those are the same as stock gaskets and that they use them all day long.
Old 04-30-2004, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin 276
...when I spoke to Texas Speed, they told me I would have to degree the cam and notch the pistons for that cam...look at the lift .609/614...did you clay it prior to installing just to see if it was going to touch or not? How deep is the indention on the piston? Did they advice you to go with a shorter push rod?
No I did not clay it, even though I was advised to do so. I did not start the engine, only turned it over by hand. I also have not removed the heads yet to see if it's actually hitting the piston, I'm just assuming that's what's stopping the engine from turning over. I used the 7.4" pushrods that TR gave me in the package. I'm assuming that's what I was supposed to use?
Old 04-30-2004, 02:33 PM
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Aside from having PV problems, have you tried to force the motor over the first time you felt contact? If so you've bent that valve and however many others if you forced it to turn over...Just a FYI..
Old 04-30-2004, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Damian
Aside from having PV problems, have you tried to force the motor over the first time you felt contact? If so you've bent that valve and however many others if you forced it to turn over...Just a FYI..
Listen to Damian.....he knows
Old 04-30-2004, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Damian
Aside from having PV problems, have you tried to force the motor over the first time you felt contact? If so you've bent that valve and however many others if you forced it to turn over...Just a FYI..

I rocked the car kind of hard while in gear, and it wouldn't roll. I didn't think anything of it. I then turned the crank witha wrench, and got to a point where it wouldn't move and put a fair amount of pressure on it. I did not, however, force it past that hard point. looks like I'm taking the heads off again.

Can I reuse the new headbolts and headgaskets I just put on there?
Old 04-30-2004, 03:10 PM
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Were they torque to yield gm bolts or ARP...many people reuse torque to yield bolts without any problems.
Old 04-30-2004, 03:15 PM
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They were torque to yield GM bolts. That saves me another $50 if I can reuse those, thank God. I might go ahead and order the thickest headgasket I can find, while I've got it apart, again.
Old 04-30-2004, 03:29 PM
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Sorry to hear about your problems. First thing I would do would be to remove the rockers and try turning the motor over. See if this allows the motor to turn over freely.

The cam specs are perfectly fine. Most of the TReX cams do check out slightly larger than the advertised 242/248. The specs on the cam in my car are 243.6/249.0 109.8*lsa/108 intake centerline and this is the one we based the .070"/.090" piston to valve clearance on with bone stock LS1 heads, stock shortblock/rockers/gasket (.053" compressed graphite gasket),etc. Peak valve lift has ZERO effect on piston to valve clearance.

What were the heads removed for?

Good luck and feel free to give me a call at the shop if you have other questions/concerns.

Jason

Last edited by Jason99T/A; 05-01-2004 at 02:51 AM.
Old 04-30-2004, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin 276
Were they torque to yield gm bolts or ARP...many people reuse torque to yield bolts without any problems.
THIS IS ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT. YOU CAN NOT RE-USE TTY BOLTS OF ANY KIND.

You are setting yourself up for failure. This is a well known fact. TTY are meant to be stretched to their final torque spec. Once you break them loose they do NOT recoil and can thus not be re-stretched to their final torque spec. Therefore you'll never have the heads torque completely and you'll risk blowing your headgaskets, etc.
Old 04-30-2004, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason99T/A
Sorry to hear about your problems. First thing I would do would be to remove the rockers and try turning the motor over. See if this allows the motor to turn over freely.

The cam specs are perfectly fine. Most of the TReX cams do check out slightly larger than the advertised 242/248. The cam in my car are 243.6/249.0 109.8*lsa/108 intake centerline and this is the one we based the .070"/.090" piston to valve clearance on with bone stock LS1 heads, stock shortblock/rockers/gasket (.053" compressed graphite gasket),etc. Peak valve lift has ZERO effect on piston to valve clearance.

What were the heads removed for?

Good luck and feel free to give me a call at the shop if you have other questions/concerns.

Jason
The heads were removed because I was going to go with aftermarket heads, but ran outta cash, so I stuck with the stock ones.

I pulled off the drivers side head, and the valves are definitly hitting the pistons. Infact, I broke the exhaust valve on # 5 cylinder. I have no idea why. I didn't degree it, but those dots were lined up perfect. damn damn damn.
Old 04-30-2004, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
THIS IS ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT. YOU CAN NOT RE-USE TTY BOLTS OF ANY KIND.

You are setting yourself up for failure. This is a well known fact. TTY are meant to be stretched to their final torque spec. Once you break them loose they do NOT recoil and can thus not be re-stretched to their final torque spec. Therefore you'll never have the heads torque completely and you'll risk blowing your headgaskets, etc.

I agree with you and would not use them either so no need to scream... I was simply telling him what others have done and done without any problems from what I was told.
Old 04-30-2004, 04:52 PM
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reusued mine in my s-10 and blew the gasket in about a month lol so yah dont reuse TTY bolts. Sux to hear you fucked up the heads too now...one way or the other those funds will have to make themselves available lol once you start going that big with a cam you really should check and double check everything...these cams are pretty much race only and should be treated as such.

lata
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Old 04-30-2004, 04:59 PM
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Sorry to hear man... I hope you get everything worked out, and get that beast back out on the road..


Old 04-30-2004, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin 276
I agree with you and would not use them either so no need to scream... I was simply telling him what others have done and done without any problems from what I was told.
If you agree then you shouldn't spread incorrect information. Every single manufacturer that uses TTY bolts, including the people that manufacture TTY bolts say that they are to NEVER be re-used after they're hit their final torque sequence. If others tell you something that you know is not true then question it and find out the real answer before telling others to proceed.


I have ASE certification manuals, books, etc that re-iterate this time and time again.

Sure, it may be somewhat OK to re-use ONE to get you back home, shut it down and order a new one from the dealer but never a full set.

It's incorrect information that you heard and it can cause some people grave consequences if they heed that advice. If you notice, the person was relieved that they thought they could re-use the TTY bolts they had just used (torqued to final spec) and it saved them $50. That $50 saved could cost him a TON more if he/she were to re-use them and they failed b/c they heeded that advice.

See the quote here:

Originally Posted by AustinL911
They were torque to yield GM bolts. That saves me another $50 if I can reuse those, thank God. I might go ahead and order the thickest headgasket I can find, while I've got it apart, again.
PS, I used the large lettering to get the point across. I wasn't yelling, just making the point know.
Old 04-30-2004, 05:35 PM
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A local (fairly reputable) shop asked me why I wanted new head bolts. I told him they were TTY and he said the shop re-uses them. I still bought a set for piece of mind.

The dealership's name is Lou Fusz Pontiac in St. Louis, MO.
Old 04-30-2004, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Tech
A local (fairly reputable) shop asked me why I wanted new head bolts. I told him they were TTY and he said the shop re-uses them. I still bought a set for piece of mind.

The dealership's name is Lou Fusz Pontiac in St. Louis, MO.
Those in St. Louis, scratch them of your list of competent mechanics.

Last edited by CANNIBAL; 04-30-2004 at 05:42 PM.
Old 04-30-2004, 05:51 PM
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I didn't **** up the head or the pistons that much. It put a knick in the combustion chamber of #5 and also took a small gouge out of the piston. I've got a set of 5.3l heads sitting here also. Can I just swap the valves?

Also, I checked time and time again, and those dots are spot on. I can't figure out for the life of me why they're hitting. I'm gonna go ahead and fly cut the pistons and throw on some cometic gaskets, and new head bolts. That was a hell of a fuckup.

But it still bothers me why they hit.


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