schnellttz06

Yeah, keep in mind the stock head bolts are torque to yield. So when you tighten them they stretch and do not go back, therefore the bolt threads are no longer going to match the correct thread pitch or threads per inch for that matter. I dont know why anyone would spend the money on a heads and cam swap or whatever and not be willing to spend a few bucks on the right tool for the job, especially when you could crack your block by not doing it the right way.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Making a tap out of the old bolts is the way to go price wise,I don't think they would stretch enough to change the thread pitch, otherwise it would mangle the threads up everytime you out new head bolts in...I would def be interested to measure an old bolt compared to stock one just out of curiosity...

00Vette04GTO

Ok... I'm about to do what I hate to do. Admit that I went to town on this before reading all of your comments and did not take my time... Worse, after cleaning - when torquing a bolt... PING!

I know exactly what I did... Coolant left in the hole and blew the bottom out. Worse, my friend was on the other side working and said he heard 3 pings.

I've inspected the bolt holes and confirmed that the bottom has been blown out to the crankcase. Not happy, but I think if I can recover ALL of the metal from the pan (hopefully ALL there, about to go inspect more in daylight) - Then I will still be able to run this engine with some major luck. I can not see any cracks and have done my best to test for breaching by pumping lots of oil into the holes. All went to crankcase.

Sigh... We shall see.

Please let my expensive mistake be a lesson for anyone reading this who is jumping into a project... TAKE YOUR TIME! RUSHING COST TIME AND MONEY.

If you have a question

Luckily, I do have another block, another car, and the resources to handle learning in this fashion (to an extent). But it isn't for the faint of heart.


BTW: The tool I made from the old head bolt seemed to work pretty good, though I will be buying one from ARP the next go around (and triple checking for a dry hole).

Your mechanical test dummy,
-Mike

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Damn man that sucks...like you said, it's a learning experience and I'm sure you won't do it again lol...why wouldn't your buddy stop after ONE ping!?!...sometimes even compressed air doesn't get all the coolant out, I tape a paper towel to a rod and push it down in the hole just to make sure! Anyway good luck hope it works out for you...

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to hear about the mis-fortune. I have been lingering in this forum for years and you are not the first to do this. Surprisingly there are numerous folks who spend thousands of dollars on engine mods, but don't want to spend a little extra on the correct tools to get the job done right. It's just the way it is, to get the job done "right", its cost more than just the parts. I know the bolt cut down the sides will "work", but so will a calibrated elbow for torquing the bolts. Is it right? Would you want your mechanic to practice this on your car?

Also I can vouch that that ARP tool gets the gunk out...bottom line it works. You can pass your cut bolt through the block numerous times and the ARP tool will still pull stuff out afterwards. If you can't hand spin the new fastener all the way to the bottom by hand without resistance, there is still gunk in the hole.

They key is be patient, use the correct tools, and double check your work. Leaving coolant in the lines can bust your block and dirty threads could cause you to under torque the fasteners. It happens all the time...

schnellttz06

Man that really sucks. But I dont think getting the metal out of the pan will solve anything. You are gonna blow oil and all your compression through the head bolts if you try to run it. But one thing you might be able to do salvage your engine, and it would be a long shot, you could try putting in arp studs and using red locktite on them. Maybe they will seal those holes up, maybe not.

00Vette04GTO

Well... At least aluminum is trading at a decent price right now.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I think using bolts with sealant of some sort would work better. The studs will just turn since they cant bottom out.

00Vette04GTO

Yea... My attempt is going the be the ARP bolts with thread sealer. Seems to have only have breached to crankcrase - which if is the case isn't a huge deal.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I would still look for a replacement engine in the mean time. The cracks will eventually spread with operating stress and heating cycles.

00Vette04GTO

Valid point.

Oh well, tis only a block. Easy come, easy go as they say. I will just send this other block to the machine shop and pull this one.

schnellttz06

Well look on the bright side, now is a good time to really do some upgrades.

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

I have the ARP chaser. It's well worth it for about $50.