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Compressed air or TDC method for valve spring removal

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Old 09-03-2013, 11:18 AM
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Default Compressed air or TDC method for valve spring removal

Which method do you find easier to do? Im going to be doing my cam swap soon and am trying to figure out which way would be best. Im changing everything on the valve (seals, seats, retainers, locks) if it makes a difference.
Old 09-03-2013, 11:33 AM
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The dowel method is the easiest. Even using air, you still need to put the piston at TDC as a failsafe.
Old 09-03-2013, 11:41 AM
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What's the dowel method? I've never heard of that before.
Old 09-03-2013, 11:51 AM
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Ive always done it tdc, never had a problem. Compressed air method might add a bit of security if your not sure, just seems like it would take longer since your rotating it anyway.
Old 09-03-2013, 12:28 PM
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i always did the tdc method
Old 09-04-2013, 06:45 PM
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Ill try using the TDC method and put some rope in the spark plug hole so the valve doesnt drop at all.
Old 09-04-2013, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mjs1012
Ill try using the TDC method and put some rope in the spark plug hole so the valve doesnt drop at all.
This works best and is fail-safe. I've used air before, but the cylinder better be spot-on TDC or it will rotate!
Old 09-04-2013, 11:19 PM
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Brain fart, dowel method for holding the lifters up. It was late
Old 09-05-2013, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Brain fart, dowel method for holding the lifters up. It was late
That's what I figured you meant lol. Now for that, Which type of dowel do you like to use better, wooden or metal? 5/16" or 3/8"?
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:43 AM
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Just used air here to do my springs. Was easy and quick.
Old 09-06-2013, 08:05 AM
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I use TDC and rope to hold the valves shut. Helps when the retainer is stuck. Last time I used air I lost pressure and there was a hole where the valve was, ended up pulling the head. I prefer TDC as a result.
Old 09-06-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I use TDC and rope to hold the valves shut. Helps when the retainer is stuck. Last time I used air I lost pressure and there was a hole where the valve was, ended up pulling the head. I prefer TDC as a result.
Thats one thing I was worried about with air holding up the valves is the psi falling during it and the valve falling.
Old 09-06-2013, 09:09 AM
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seems like getting rope in the spark plug holes on these cars would be a pain in the ***? Is it not? The last car I did a rope trick on I was dropping the rope in from the top the engine. Not the sides.
Old 09-06-2013, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 93civEJ1
seems like getting rope in the spark plug holes on these cars would be a pain in the ***? Is it not? The last car I did a rope trick on I was dropping the rope in from the top the engine. Not the sides.
Why do you think it'll he hard? Feed rope through the spark plug holes of the 2 pistons that are at tdc. The only difficult cylinder might be #8 because its behind the header tube. What kind of motor did you do it through the top?
Old 09-06-2013, 10:55 AM
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If you are at TDC you do not need the rope. The piston at TDC is out of the hole and the valve cannot drop down in the cylinder. The rope is just extra work. I've been using the DTC method for 50 years without a problem.
Old 09-06-2013, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
If you are at TDC you do not need the rope. The piston at TDC is out of the hole and the valve cannot drop down in the cylinder. The rope is just extra work. I've been using the DTC method for 50 years without a problem.
Wow, 50 years, you got me beat. I've been working on them 45 years... Believe me, if you've ever had one on air pressure "roll over" from not being exactly on TDC when you're elbow deep in it, you'll immediately make the switch to rope. Nothing scarier than **** moving unexpectedly when you're inches from it!
Old 09-06-2013, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Wow, 50 years, you got me beat. I've been working on them 45 years... Believe me, if you've ever had one on air pressure "roll over" from not being exactly on TDC when you're elbow deep in it, you'll immediately make the switch to rope. Nothing scarier than **** moving unexpectedly when you're inches from it!
As I said you do not need rope if your at TDC. You don't need compressed air either. Started doing this hot rodding thing in 1961 so it has been a little more than 50 years...set NHRA national records along the way too....... This ain't rocket science it's just phuchin hot rodding ... keeping it as simple as possible is always your best move..
Old 09-07-2013, 08:12 AM
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here's a pic of the valve hitting the piston at TDC, no way for it to fall in.

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Old 09-07-2013, 02:13 PM
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TDC method and/or use pen magnets for extra insurance if you need.

Quicker, easier, and a lot less hassle than air and really no chance for a screw up!
Old 09-19-2013, 06:29 PM
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Iv always used air because it really helps with a stuck keeper or a if the valve drops down like the pic above you will have a hard time fighting a "floating" valve. As far as the crank turning when air is applied, if you aren't a re re and leave the breaker bar on the crank bolt it makes no difference at all. Who cares if the rotating assembly moves....it wont hit you...I promise lol

You will hear all sorts of hissing coming thru the holes in the head that lead to the bottom end. That is normal as it is blowing past the rings.

And as a side note I always take a larger socket suck as a 3/4 or so and place it on the edges of the retainer and smack it with a hammer. This sorta shocks the keeper to release it being stuck to the retainer. Iv never had one fly off or any crazy stuff like that.

Just like a earlier post. Its just hot rodding.....dont over think a valve spring.


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