Compressed air or TDC method for valve spring removal
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 19
From: Stratford, CT
Compressed air or TDC method for valve spring removal Which method do you find easier to do? Im going to be doing my cam swap soon and am trying to figure out which way would be best. Im changing everything on the valve (seals, seats, retainers, locks) if it makes a difference.
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 19
From: Stratford, CT
I use TDC and rope to hold the valves shut. Helps when the retainer is stuck. Last time I used air I lost pressure and there was a hole where the valve was, ended up pulling the head. I prefer TDC as a result.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 19
From: Stratford, CT
Thats one thing I was worried about with air holding up the valves is the psi falling during it and the valve falling.
seems like getting rope in the spark plug holes on these cars would be a pain in the ***? Is it not? The last car I did a rope trick on I was dropping the rope in from the top the engine. Not the sides.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 19
From: Stratford, CT
Why do you think it'll he hard? Feed rope through the spark plug holes of the 2 pistons that are at tdc. The only difficult cylinder might be #8 because its behind the header tube. What kind of motor did you do it through the top?
If you are at TDC you do not need the rope. The piston at TDC is out of the hole and the valve cannot drop down in the cylinder. The rope is just extra work. I've been using the DTC method for 50 years without a problem.
Wow, 50 years, you got me beat. I've been working on them 45 years... Believe me, if you've ever had one on air pressure "roll over" from not being exactly on TDC when you're elbow deep in it, you'll immediately make the switch to rope. Nothing scarier than **** moving unexpectedly when you're inches from it!
Wow, 50 years, you got me beat. I've been working on them 45 years... Believe me, if you've ever had one on air pressure "roll over" from not being exactly on TDC when you're elbow deep in it, you'll immediately make the switch to rope. Nothing scarier than **** moving unexpectedly when you're inches from it!
... This ain't rocket science it's just phuchin hot rodding ... keeping it as simple as possible is always your best move..
Iv always used air because it really helps with a stuck keeper or a if the valve drops down like the pic above you will have a hard time fighting a "floating" valve. As far as the crank turning when air is applied, if you aren't a re re and leave the breaker bar on the crank bolt it makes no difference at all. Who cares if the rotating assembly moves....it wont hit you...I promise lol
You will hear all sorts of hissing coming thru the holes in the head that lead to the bottom end. That is normal as it is blowing past the rings.
And as a side note I always take a larger socket suck as a 3/4 or so and place it on the edges of the retainer and smack it with a hammer. This sorta shocks the keeper to release it being stuck to the retainer. Iv never had one fly off or any crazy stuff like that.
Just like a earlier post. Its just hot rodding.....dont over think a valve spring.
You will hear all sorts of hissing coming thru the holes in the head that lead to the bottom end. That is normal as it is blowing past the rings.
And as a side note I always take a larger socket suck as a 3/4 or so and place it on the edges of the retainer and smack it with a hammer. This sorta shocks the keeper to release it being stuck to the retainer. Iv never had one fly off or any crazy stuff like that.
Just like a earlier post. Its just hot rodding.....dont over think a valve spring.