sixspdss

iTrader: (1)

I have a ticking noise that started only after about 1500 miles after i rebuilt the engine with all new bearings rods and pistons. i have the ms4 cam, prc stage 1 heads,ls7, ls2 tray, 7.400 chrome moly pushrods and .650 dual springs. it was perfectly quiet the first 1500 miles then this random loud ticking noise came up... its quiet at idle but once you give it a little throttle you can hear it, and the higher the rpms the louder it gets. so i replace all the lifters with new ones. nothing change, so i replaced the o ring in oil pump maybe thinking it was sucking in air and collapsing the lifters. that didn't change anything and oil pressure is at 45 at idle and about 78 at high rpms.

any ideas what else it could be???

Sales1@Texas-speed

I would recommend checking for proper pushrod length. If the length is off it can cause excessive noise in the valvetrain due to incorrect preload. 7.400 is a common length but with all the variables out there the only way to know 100% is to measure.

sixspdss

iTrader: (1)

ok, thanks for the reply. I will double check them out then

td1168

iTrader: (2)

If it was quiet for 1500 miles I can't see how all the sudden the pushrod length is wrong. You would have had the noise from day one.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Use a stethoscope and see what side of the motor the ticking is coming from. Should give you a good starting point.

sixspdss

iTrader: (1)

ok I borrowed a pushrod length checker and it came out almost perfect for a 7.400 pushrod. my buddy had an extra set of 7.425 pushrods. so we put those in and turned the engine over by hand to make sure everything cleared. we started it up and doesn't sound any different... so the problem has to be some where else. we got a stethoscope and its definitely coming from the passenger side. I have texas speed upgrade rocker arms in and all of them seem good yet. it sounds like the lifters might be collapsing for some reason but just a guess... is there any other place that it could be sucking in air in the oil? because when we pulled the other lifters out they were perfectly fine to.

gagliano7

Make sure you don't have a header or exhaust leak. That will sound like a tick in your motor.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

LS7 lifter is probably not pumping up properly. When you checked the pushrod length did you notice if any of the rockers were not getting full articulation when you turned it over by hand? If you couldn't tell, start the car and let it come up to temp and give it a few short revs and then check it before the lifters have time to bleed off.

If you find one rocker isn't articulating right, you'll probably need to pull the head and replace that lifter. If it has collapsed, it could damage the camshaft. LSK lobes on the MS3 can put some stress on the components and 5/16th pushrods flex pretty bad in these motors. That flex with violent lobes can cause a lifter to "loft" and crash pretty hard against the cam and damage the roller mechanism in the lifter.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

LS7 lifter is probably not pumping up properly. When you checked the pushrod length did you notice if any of the rockers were not getting full articulation when you turned it over by hand? If you couldn't tell, start the car and let it come up to temp and give it a few short revs and then check it before the lifters have time to bleed off.

If you find one rocker isn't articulating right, you'll probably need to pull the head and replace that lifter. If it has collapsed, it could damage the camshaft. LSK lobes on the MS4 can put some stress on the components and 5/16th pushrods flex pretty bad in these motors at higher RPM. That flex with violent lobes can cause a lifter to "loft" and come off the camshaft, even with good springs, and crash pretty hard against the cam and damage the roller mechanism in the lifter.

If the lifter wheel is damaged at all or shows some scuffing, you might need to pull the cam to inspect it.

td1168

iTrader: (2)

Is it a distinct individual tick? I say you have an exhaust leak but that's my opinion. If you have the right preload and you changed your lifters but still have the same noise I'd look elsewhere.

garygnu

check your rockers also .

sixspdss

iTrader: (1)

I got a pushrod length checker and we figured it out that there's about .080 pre load with 7.400 pushrods. My buddy had 7.425 pushrods so we put them in turned it over by hand and everything cleared so we started it up and the loud ticking still there. I had the comp cam high energy lifters In when the ticking started so we checked them all really close and nothing was bad with rollers or the springs. And checked the rockers. Is I possible that the gasket in the back of the block where the oil transfers to the other side of the lifters is leaking? Because the oil goes to the drivers side then in back of block there's a cover and in that is were the oil transfers to the passenger side? Any ideas If that would be possible??

garygnu

do you have stock GM rockers with stock trunnion bearings ?

sixspdss

iTrader: (1)

there the gm rockers with the upgraded trunion bearings from texas speed. the lifters that were in when the loud ticking started we checked them all out and the rollers and the springs are all in perfect condition. so the oil is either not filling them up or the problem is somewhere else

blackonblack817

I say there's an exhaust leak imo if everything checks out fine

poltergeist 02

iTrader: (65)

straight from comp...

High Energy™ Hydraulic Lifters
Applicable Part #s:
802-12, 812-12, 812-16, 820-12, 822-12, 822-16, 824-16, 832-12, 832-16, 834-12, 834-16, 842-8,
846-8, 850-12, 850-16, 851-16, 852-16, 853-12, 853-16, 854-16, 855-16, 857-16, 864-8, 869-12,
869-16, 880-16, 882-16, 884-16, 886-16, 900-16
Thank you for choosing COMP Cams® products; we are proud to be your manufacturer of choice.
Please read this instruction sheet carefully before beginning installation, and also take a moment to
review the included limited warranty information.
The following instructions cover the correct procedures for installing COMP Cams® High Energy
Lifters™. The High Energy Lifters™ can be used with adjustable and non-adjustable valve train
setups. Through various testing we have discovered that lifter preload should be set between .030” to
.040” or ½ to ¾ a turn of the wrench past zero for optimal performance. Although the method for
setting preload on a hydraulic flat tappet and hydraulic roller lifter is the same, the break-in procedure
for each lifter is not. Please review this break-in procedure for flat tappet camshafts:
Important: On hydraulic flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must
be removed during break-in. We do not recommend the use of synthetic motor oils during the
break-in process. Engines should be filled with a non-synthetic, heavy-duty motor oil along with
COMP Cams® Break-In Oil Additive (Part #159). This allows the lifters to establish rotation and
develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm up to 2000 to 2500 during the
first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate
amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically between 2000 to
2500 to direct oil splash to different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change
the oil and filter again to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are removed from the engine. The
inner valve springs can now be replaced.

I think you have too much preload for those lifters.

sixspdss

iTrader: (1)

ended up being a spun rod bearing...

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

How did that happen? Your first post stated that you just put new bearings in. Bearings got starved of oil? That sound will be more of a knock than a tick.

sepsis

iTrader: (7)

****. That escalated quickly.

Did you already fix it?

bmr408

iTrader: (3)

sounds like lifters