Lower RWHP/TQ than expected
A tune optimized for the street does not necessarily translate to good dyno numbers and vice versa. That's why you should compare apples to apples, like a dyno tune on the dyno or a street/strip tune on the street or track.
Plus, without some sort of #s to back up the tune, there's no way to know that you're not leaving power with just street tuning. He either maxed out his timing without knock or just threw a random number on there. Who knows what sort of timing and fueling an engine likes best without a dyno or at least a track result.
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OP, you are giving us NOTHING to work with.
What transmission in the car? What clutch/converter?
What headers and exhaust? If stock manifolds...mystery ******* solved.
What injectors? What was your air/fuel? (otherwise how do you know it wasn't running out of fuel?)
What does the curve look like? Is it rough up top? (potential valve float or other problems)
What wheels/tires on the car?
What gear was it dynoed in?
Can't solve a puzzle if we only have the 4 corner pieces.
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A street tune does not optimize a combination for power. Usually, the street tune only gets drivability and street manners squared away, while making it safe for runs in WOT. Since different combinations like different timing curves and different fuel curves, maximum power cannot be realized accurately without the dyno.
Any good street tune is going to be 99% optimized. You might pick up 10 rwhp on a dyno finding optimal timing and fueling. But as long as you're ~12.5 AFR on the street and you have a reasonable amount of timing, you are pretty much there. The dyno can allow you to unlock that last 1%.
Really, in an N/A car, adjusting AFR really doesn't do that much. Just set it to 12.5-12.8 and forget about it. It's going to vary gear to gear anyway (leaner in the lower gears, richer in the higher gears) which is why I just set it to 12.5 and forget it.
Timing is where you will gain power, but even if he had just the stock timing tables, he won't see more than 20 rwhp by adding timing, which would still leave him with very low numbers assuming this is a dynojet.
Dyno numbers are pretty pointless without a before and after comparison. It's a tool for tuning your car. Not to give accurate HP estimations IMHO. Weigh your car in "race trim" and take it to the 1/4 mile track for a more accurate representation of wheel HP. Also ambient temps, elevation, air density etc all have huge effects.
Dyno numbers are pretty pointless without a before and after comparison. It's a tool for tuning your car. Not to give accurate HP estimations IMHO. Weigh your car in "race trim" and take it to the 1/4 mile track for a more accurate representation of wheel HP. Also ambient temps, elevation, air density etc all have huge effects.
Right, we can't do anything here but speculate. We simply need more info if we are to pinpoint the issue, if there is one.
Let's strive to do better then this. 










